What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

One big advantage to the non-spin-on oil filter that goes largely unrecognized is that, with the separate filter element, you can see what you're buying/installing.

Years ago, there was a guy who had an engine seize due to a collapsed element inside a spin-on filter cutting off oil circulation. He went out and bought, like, a dozen different spin-on filters and cut them apart on a bandsaw, then posted photos on the web. It was disturbing to see how cheaply made even some name brand filter were.

 

Wow never thought of that.

 

What bracket did you go with?

 

why are all the aftermarket that is see complete bulb replacement. i don't want to change to a H7 bulb i already have a H11 HIDkit. and not only that seem like unless is morimoto or OEM they all get foggy.

BTW today i hit a divider and broke my passenger headlamp. was looking to upgrade but i did not like the BS of changing to H7 and that the HID would not work on those light. so i just bought a set of OEM from a close out.

 

get a can of VHT flame proof paint i know there is black dunno if they have "silver" . and just coat the exhaust black.

 

Installed the OEM LED headlights -- very nice, bright white color light. Looks decent too. Super easy with @daveeasa wiring harness.

Now have the originals collecting dust in the garage (2022 TRD OR Halogen with LED DRL) if anyone is interested in them - DM me.

 

Nice work ^^

NOTE to others, de-pinning a Deutsch connector is pretty easy. Some needlenose pliers are the only tool necessary. I prefer black Deutsch connectors myself, the grey is not as sexy. No crimping skill needed, just make sure you get the same pinout. For ditch lights you would do one side and compare. And/or take photos.

 

Cutting in the wire harness is to gain access to the vehicle so that they can re program the ECU via the OBD2 port. They use generic scanners to code in the new keys. The only way they are stealing the truck if your OBD2 is locked, is with a tow truck. Either that, or they would literally have to cut, and re pin a new OBD2 connector. (No chance that is happening)

 

I always used the Toyota D3 filter and they gave me a washer each time as well. I can see where you will never get a crushed one doing the element only.

 

Curious about how you like the Garmin switch? Any positive/negative observations? Thank you.

 

I have a 2020 SR5 AC and went from rear seats;

To no rear seats.

I'm planning to build a deck system with storage underneath right up to bottom of the back panel, so the carpet cutouts won't be visible.
I did a swap with another TW member who needed seats.

 

My parade of small mods continues, OEM bed mat and OEM bed lights.

 

Did your truck come with the cargo light switch and relay already installed? Mine does not have the switch and relay and I'm wondering how hard it is to add those.

 

Yep, it already has the cargo light switch and was already wired to that switch from the factory for the bed lights. If you can find the parts I'm taking a half-educated guess thinking it wouldn't be horrible to install. Maybe someone more knowledgeable than me would have a better idea.

 

The one drawback is that you won't have physical switches; there's probably a solution out there but I haven't found, though not needed one. I have an application-specific, dedicated Android tablet mounted above the dash that can handle switching the Powerswitch (along with APRS mapping for ham radio, etc.), as well as an iPhone.

That said, I don't really use the switch more than to provide power to different areas of the truck, and anticipate wiring lighting that is not an immediate need (like you would on a side-by-side, or other purpose-built off-road vehicle).

Tl;dr: works for my specific application quite well, though for others it may work well or not.

 

If I recall correctly I remember reading that most trucks have the wiring but may just need the relay and switch. There was one guy that was missing a section of the wiring though. I think it was this thread that I read it in, but not sure and a bit too busy at the moment to read through all 15 pages.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-led-bed-lighting-kit-2020.644777/page-15

 

SCS BR6’s & General Grabber X3’s mounted today

 

Absolutely!

 

It’s Diode dynamics bracket that comes as a kit.

 

Swapped out the stock Sport muffler for a Flowmaster chambered piece. This was the easiest exhaust job I have ever done, only took a couple hours. I removed the stock exhaust at the flange, so I could cut the pipes as close to the muffler as possible, and deburred the hack saw cuts. I installed the two pipe sections back on the truck. I used a 3” long butt joint clamp on the front of the muffler, just snug, and placed a jack stand under the rear of the muffler, to keep the joint alignments straight. Connected the rear joint with a second 3” butt clamp, verified alignment & depth, and tightened both clamps. I used a 2.25 crush clamp (two piece horseshoe/saddle) to hold a rubber strap style hanger to the front hanger location, and a 3/8 bolt through the strap and stock rubber hanger. The rear has two hangers that form a V, two of the same hangers with a second crush clamp, and two 3/8 bolts through the stock rubber hangers made it all solid and stable as the factory pieces. No grinding, no welding, no bending, no pie cuts - my first bolt in exhaust. The exhaust is still very quiet at idle, or small load, it is loud enough you can here it at 3K or more when it is pulling. This and the clutch mod, should make shifting this truck as good as it can be!