Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

The 2GR-FE port injectors are 14mm feed. The 2GR-FKS are 11mm feed. This is one of the reasons why the 2GR-FE rail was problematic.

Also it's not as simple as just upgrading injectors as a general statement. You have to upgrade direct injection or port injection depending on your need.

For example, yes i have LS500 direct injectors. I could be wrong but I think they are 650cc. This was because the TT tune was originally focused on adding fuel through direct injection. Unfortunately direct injection hit limits with it's high pressure pump and was having cold start problems so now the focus is being switched to Port injection. So now I need bigger port injectors. 650cc to be exact.

I also have a 340lph PWM pump. Stock ecu yes, but doesn't matter. The pump is controlled by the fuel pressure controller, which is under the truck. That had to be replaced with a custom built piece needed to run a PWM fuel pump. The factory pump uses a fixed voltage system to maintain pressure.

 

You can still search by handle if they are banhammered

 

That's new I think. Many months ago I'd tried and it would default to nothing found when hitting search. But searching the same keyword without OV's handle would bring up results

 

I am looking at that thread, but oh boy, 608 pages. Can someone provide a brief summary?

 

Sure. Supercharger = good

 

I'm considering buying the kit for my '21 TRD Off-Road daily driver/towing vehicle (track car)/light off-road fun truck. There's a lot of information in this thread. I'm planning on having a shop install the kit.

I'm most confused about the tune. Who is producing them aside from Mag? I read that at some temperature the Mag tune actually reduces boost to "help you out" in some way, which sounds terrible.

I'm not really worried about the money side of the equation. What should I do along with the kit for better performance and durability? The truck has 9k miles on it currently with the standard bolt-on parts.

I know this information has probably been posted 8000 times before in this thread, but I would appreciate it if anyone is willing to help me out.

 

If I recall correctly OVTune requested to be banned as to cut down on the communication here on TW.

 

LOL I do not think that was the case bro. Mat was getting a little hostile

 

Okay guys, what is the size/ cc of the stock Tacoma injectors? Does anyone know? I can't seem to find the info anywhere.

 

According to the Tacoma service manual, the Port fuel injectors should flow between 67-81 cc's per 15 sec, or calculated out to 268-364 cc's per minute.

The direct injectors are not listed due to the inability to test them since they run at high pressure and cannot be tested on a port injection tester.

That's about all I have found so far.

 

Thank you. That's lower than I thought. Btw, we can fit 550cc injectors from the TRD Aurion that was supercharged on the 2GR-FE. They are long nozzle, not short nozzle like stock, but they will fit. Might be worth looking if they fit in the 2GR-FKS.

 

Port or Direct? The 2GR-FE Port injectors are 14mm and will not fit. You would need 14mm to 11mm adapters, which would raise your fuel rail and require rail mount spacers.

There are very few 11mm extended nozzle port injectors out there. DeatschWerks has 650cc injectors for the Tundra that will fit. Not sure what the flow is on the Lexus, but those will fit as well.

 

550cc port injectors.

 

What does it matter if the upgraded fuel electronics aren't available? or are you two the golden ticket winners that actually received twin turbo parts from OVTune?

 

The 3GT has 12 fuel injectors. 6 Direct injectors and 6 Port injectors. The direct injectors run under VERY high pressure and are fed from a single cam driven high pressure fuel pump. The port injectors are under low pressure and fed directly from the tank mounted low pressure fuel pump at 40-60 psi roughly.

The 2GR-FE uses Port fuel injection and the head/feed of the injectors are 14mm. The 2GR-FSE has Port and Direct fuel injection, but also 14mm. The 2GR-FKS has 11mm Port fuel injector heads/feed. Not compatible.

The closest compatibility is the V35-FTS from the Twin Turbo Lexus LS500, which has Direct injection fed by TWO cam driven high pressure fuel pumps, and Port injection with 11mm port injectors with extended necks.

Keep in mind differentiating between port and direct is important because they are not interchangeable since one requires a very high pressure feed (thousands of psi) to spray properly. The 2GR-FKS switches between Direct and Port injection as needed, so upgrading the right injectors is critical to what your tune is doing. Some tunes are focusing on one while others focus on the other. You have to talk to your tuner to know what you need based on how they are tuning it.

 

There are alternatives out there. For example running a hobbs switch and a 2nd fuel pump. For some reason OVTune chose to switch to a PWM pump to modulate fuel pressure, and that is not at all compatible with the factory fuel control system, hence the custom computer needed. I'm sure he had a reason to do it this way, but I've yet to find out why.

To answer your 2nd question, yes I have a Powermax Twin Turbo from OVTune. One of the biggest issues with running higher boost (10-15psi) is that you run out of fuel pretty quickly. Unfortunately due to the complexity of the fuel system, and the inefficient fuel rail designs, there are serious issues with running lean. The factory fuel system is not adequate for more than 7psi. You could push it, but you'll burn out the pump under extended load.

Let's not even mention if you are one of the lucky ones with a recalled fuel pump....

 

That's definitely unfortunate. Having 2 fuel pumps makes for a complex system. Have you tried contacting RR-Racing or D3 Performance? They also tune 2GR-FKS engines.

 

Running a hobbs switch would be pretty simple actually. You could run your 2nd pump under the truck or in the tank (in tank is quieter and stays cooler). The hobbs switch would only kick the 2nd pump on when it sees a set boost or a drop in fuel pressure. This might play havoc on your tune though since the main pump would probably kick down thinking there is too much pressure, making your 2nd pump take up the majority of the load.

Basically what I was considering doing was having the 2nd pump monitor fuel pressure so if the fuel pressure starts to drop (due to increased flow under boost), it would kick on to get the pressure back up to target and shut back off when not needed. This would keep the returnless fuel system in our trucks happy and under pressure. Overpressure the system and you start to have problems. You could also just run an always on 2nd pump and put in a return system to pipe the excess pressure back to the tank.

If you run a return system you could even just get rid of the factory pump and controller, replace it with a larger pump or two and just have it always running at more pressure than you need. That would probably require serious tuning to keep the ECU happy though since it would no longer be talking to the Fuel Pressure Controller.

There are a multitude of options, all with their own pros and cons. I feel as though OVTune went with one of the more complicated options by having to replace the fuel computer...but I'm sure he had his reasons. Toyota really overcomplicated this thing so it may have been the easiest option for him.

 

My buddy Jeremy has a nitrous RAV4 2GR-FE, soon to be turborcharged, and he's running a DW255 fuel pump with Aeromotive 13130 AFPR. He converted his system from returnless to return. Hasn't had any issues with his setup. Return system will require drilling into the top fuel hat, and using a bulkhead fitting. Something to look into. My mechanic didn't recommend that because of the potential of leaking, but I don't know how true that is in reality.

 

The likelihood of it leaking is very very low. Your tank would have to be fairly full and your seal really bad. The hat is at the topmost part of your tank. You would really just have a problem with fumes if vapors are leaking out.

Putting a bulkhead fitting into our hat is problematic due to the plastic reinforcement ridges underneath. I tried it out. You just have to be careful. Carve the ridges out where your fitting goes and use crush washers. Use a fuel resistant sealer around it to be safe.

The true downside of the return system is that you dump heated fuel back into your tank. It really isn't that bad, but cooler fuel is better. In the end it's an emissions thing to reduce fuel vapors. You can easily keep a returnless system with our power levels. You really only need to go to a return when you start pushing up above 600hp.

We just need a larger fuel pump that is compatible with our Fuel Pressure Controller. I'd like to think OVTune ruled that out....but that doesn't mean he did. That would be the easiest option.