35s without cutting fenders?

I want to go to 35 inch tires. Ive done research for awhile and it seems like most everyone on here that runs them has cut down the fender flares. Ive seen other pictures around the internet where people are running 35s without trimming and an article with no mention of cutting the flares from 4 wheeler magazine. Im ok with a cmc, beating in the pinch weld, buying upper control arms, trimming and molding fender liners just not sure about cutting fender flares. Also everyone says you need a 3 inch lift for 35s, but most people call what is actually a 2 inch lift on these trucks a 3 inch lift hoping for clarification on this. I also have a manual trans with the lower gears than the auto anyone with experience on how badly you need a regear in a manual truck with 35s. Oh yea and i dont care about mpg obviously. Thanks for any help im sure this kind of questions gets old.

 

Technically you don't need a lift to run 35s, I ran 35s on a 2019 with stock suspension for around 800 miles. Everything was cut to run them.

If you offroad you will have to cut the fenders and flares. When your suspension compresses the tire will rise and hit the top of your wheel well, so your fender will have to be trimmed to about the same height. Trimming the fender flare will depend on your wheel and tire specification.

If you're doing 35s for fashion you might be able to fit them without cutting with a drop bracket lift, I think there are a couple threads scattered around TW about that.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/intro-to-fitting-35s-3-lifts.594309/

You may not need to trim the flares. I ran this setup through Moab and only had slight rubbing on the top of the wheel well near the pinch weld under full articulation. Never touched the flares but there are a lot of factors at play.

As far the the 2” vs 3” thing. It’s kinda BS. Basically the 3rd gen shares similar suspension components to the second gen but sits 1” higher so a lot of 2nd geners say the 3rd gen comes with a factory 1” lift. Honestly, a 2” lift on a 3rd gen is 2”.

 

Thanks for the help guys, but i decided to go with 285/70r17 so i would have to worry about rubbing as much. But with 2 inch lift in the front and 1.5 in the back from a add a lef kit from headstrong im rubbing on the upper control arm at full turn. I think im gonna start a new thread to see if anyone has experience with control arms rubbing. Most everyone seems to talk about rubbing on the cab mount but mine are clear of that.

 

Wheel spacers can possibly fix that but wheel spacers may push your tire into the cab mount. You can change your wheels with different backspace to also give more room.

 

Thinking about 4runner pro wheels they have 4 mm offset from what ive found, sport rims and limited rims have the most positive offset from what i found 30mm. Switching would give me an inch more clearence if im right. Ill do a cmc if i have to but of corse i cant cut the control arm lol.

 

Do you have a picture of this?

I’m not opposed to cutting my truck up to stuff bigger tires. I just hate the idea of spending $1500 on suspension that could go Towards, lockers, gears etc. I’d probably of course get a TC or Camburg UCA, but I don’t need fancy suspension if there’s a way to get proper alignment to fit 35s with cutting

 

These are the only photos I have, one is before cutting, the other is after.

 

Sexy! So, since I plan on 35s anyways, and full articulation is what matters - did you prefer making them clear on stock suspension first before lifting? I feel like if you can do so on stock suspension, you know for a fact there won’t an any issues once aftermarket suspension is put on.

Liked your post about LC cams/camber/caster and how to adjust properly to avoid a lot of rub. Mind fucked for sure...

 

There are so many variables that influence rubbing its impossible to say how much a set up will rub and changing 1 component can make rubbing better or worse. Tire specs, wheel specs, manufacturing tolerances, UCA specs, fabrication tolerances, driving styles, geographic location, suspension component wear, alignment specs, lift, and more, will all affect how much rubbing there is.

When I had the stock suspension the tires rubbed a small amount on the stock UCA near the ball joint. I swapped out most of the suspension and now the passenger side rubs a small amount on the TC heimed UCA on the tube on hard compression. My other truck never had that problem, maybe because this new truck is tubbed on the front and the suspension can travel farther. Both set ups have rubbed at the top of the wheel well near the back under compression.

One thing to realize is that if you do any aggressive driving in the desert, 35s won't "fit". You'll be smashing the 35 into the top of the wheel well on hard hits and the only way to get full travel with 35s is to tub. When I upgraded my 2019 I tubbed the areas under the battery and near the windshield reservoir so the 35s wouldn't smash into those areas.

 

Reviving as I can't find an answer.. what did you do with the supports for the besides on rear? I have a few ideas but trying to find someone who did it to ask. I also have a longbed.

 

I made support/braces out of small diameter tubing and some brackets to hold the bed sides rigid. You could made it out of flat bar too. I'll take some photos tomorrow and share them.

 

Blew my back out over the weekend and forgot about this.

 

Awesome thank you!

 

Welcome to Hawaii.


https://www.bulletproofsuspension.net/toyota-tacoma-10-12-inch/