Error When Attempting to Flash ECU

I added to my post. Check that.

 

Along that line, it would be good to peek under the dash at the OBD connector. Some dealers / aftermarket folks modify it for different mods that were installed. It should look sorta like this if unmolested:

 

If I am following what you are saying........... I replaced the factory ODBII port while troubleshooting. There was no pig tail connected. It goes directly into a wire harness.

Nothing is connected to the ODBII port while I am trying this. Tactrix is directly plugged in.

 

Correct that is what it looked like before I replaced the ODBII port. The new port was spiced into the original wires and I did a direct wire to wire map and confirmed the new ODBII port worked with my Torque pro device.

 

So I just discovered something while checking you guys suggestions:



Should that not be plugged in? It is right behind the in cab fuse box, and behind the hard plastic cover. Possibly this is the issue, and I knocked it loose at some point? Can someone check their truck to see if that is connected? You should be able to see where it plugs in at just above the hard plastic cover (to the left of the brake).

 

That would be my first place to start looking?

I believe that is the trailer brake harness? If so, it should be no problem.

 

I don't quite follow. Replacing the ODBII was an attempt to correct this issue. I had this error before and after the ODBII port replacement. The new ODBII port works fine with another ODBII reader that I use.

This is that device:

Friencity OBD2 Scanner Bluetooth for Car, Code Reader & Diagnostic Tools for iOS, Android and Windows, Wireless OBD II Scan Tool for Reset & Clear Check Car Engine Light

https://www.amazon.com/Friencity-Bl...t=&hvlocphy=9009452&hvtargid=pla-445660804042

Yep you are right it is the trailer brake controller harness: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-control-install-write-up.428999/

 

Installing that OBD harness could still be part of the problem. Double failures are not out of the question. OBD readers do not necessarily use all of the leads on the port. Flashing likely uses other leads.


I think it is just a matter of waiting on vF at this point.

 

You replaced the odb2 port? In the truck?

uhh the last thing I would do is splice into factory wiring..

highly highly unlikely that was the problem and very well could be problematic now

 

I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to verify everything is pinned correctly.

 

I was meticulous in mapping each wire to the correct pin on the new port. One wire at a time to prevent cross wire shorts then insulated each splice. Confirmed basic functionality with an ODB2 reader.

 

Were the replacement pins OEM? I've heard from others before that using non OEM pins tend to bend over time, causing a crappy connection.

To flash, you only need a few pins.
Pins 4, 5, 6, 14, and 16. Those are the pins I would focus on.

 

Do you mean the replacement jacks? The new ODBII port had much "beefer" jacks and the housing was better quality too, plus the wires were a higher gauge than OEM. The primary reason I replaced the ODBII port was to rule it out as a possibility.

Do you have a suggestion on the best way to check each pin? I was thinking of using a foxhound wire tracer to track each wire. Though that might only be good to detect a wire break and not take into account intermittent connection, some condition that prevents data transmission or some a few other things.

 

Rereading through your first post, you mentioned ECU recovery steps. Did you do a bench flash? If so, I'd check the connectors on the ECU.

 

No it wasn't a bench flash. But I did take out the glove box to confirm all connections to the ECU were secure.

 

E13 (one of the 6 connectors to your ECU) pins 35 and 27 are your ECU CANH & CANL pins. I would verify the connector is fully seated onto the ECU. Even if you're not having issues currently, you may have a latency issue.

 

J-hook splice without solder, then each splice individually insulated. Did one wire at a time to prevent cross wire shorts.

 

Edited my post. But the way you joined the wires could definitely be contributing to your issue.

 

How so? What is the correct method for splicing the wires? I do appreciate your help in this matter.

You did give me an idea. One thing I have not been able to eliminate is the wire harness. The Yotawerx documentation shows the locations of each wire between the ODBII port and the ports that connect to the ECM. I can put a multimeter on it and check the resistance between the ODBII port and the ECM port (on the harness side). At least then I will be able to detect a wire break or faulty splicing job.

I will try that tomorrow.

 

That's definitely a good start for sure.

For the connection, I would highly recommend a soldered connection. Granted, it would be a huge PITA to do that, but this isn't just a simple circuit. Data is transmitted and received on those lines. Noise could also contribute to your issues as well, and a bad/loose connection can also create noise.