Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT)

no problem, glad others have followed, i think having a solid shaft (teehee) from the diff out the CV creates a stronger front end, plus you don't have to fuss with any of the electronics anymore. Haven't spent any money on actuators or mods to the 4wd system once the crawl box and all shifting is done mechanically!

 

So true. Craw box + twin sticks - ADD = solid 4wd. I dont need to turn a dial and pray I'll get blessed with 4wd. Just push the stick and dig in. Thank you again!

 

Yeah the deeper reduction is a damn nice luxury. I've got a tacobox, but not sure what I'd do now, everyone seems to have a complaint about every type of set up and the NW ecoboxes haven't been out for long enough to hear much.

 

Do people usually upgrade their brakes with a crawl box? I am running 5.29s with the 4.7:1 trail gear box and I need to stomp hard on the brakes when in double low, and even then I can barely keep the truck from wanting to keep moving. I usually throw it in neutral to actually stop. I can not imagine BigMikes dual crawl box setup, but maybe he has a manual trans so it isnt an issue?

 

What’s travel numbers looking like for the 3.5” kit for people running 8” or 10” coil overs? And what cv’s?

 

I rarely use double low, but yeah even at 4.7 it takes some pressure to come to a good stop. A couple companies offer front upgrades, afaik the only company that offers rear upgrade/conversions is SOS performance. I've got front 16" BBK and a rear 4runner rotor conversion. Maybe a 17” rotor BBK front & rear upgrade would help more.

 

Of course. I shoulda figured.

I too carry stub shafts just in case. I watched that same failure happen to a buddy along with his rear diff mount failing and went home and deleted my add that week.

been following your truck build on IG. Tube bumper is gonna be sick.

 

Put it in N or hit the clutch. Not much is stopping and holding 4.7 or 12:1. That's actually one of the cool features of a crawl box, start on a big ass hill/obstacle and let the clutch out with your brake stomped to the floor and the truck will start moving and you release the brake and you are on your way. No need to 3foot it point straight up something. This is with f/r discs on my 1st gen, tundra brakes upfront.

 

i too have found likely no matter what brake setup you have, the low gearing wins. Luckily in situations where you’ll be in double low, you should be going slow enough anyway where you don’t need the brakes. If you see the need to stop, pop in N or push the clutch in.

 

I'll check those out.

I have the auto trans and it has taken some getting used to the new work flow. I can't get out of double low from N and can't go to P without sitting in N for a moment, to let things relax. Occasionally I need to put the transfer case into N, with the trans in P, before I can get out of double low.

That is true about not going very fast. But sometimes it nice to know the truck is fully stopped so I can inspect my line or admire what it just accomplished.

 

yeah, the only downside of the crawl box. Plus my ebrake doesn’t seem to ever work even when properly adjusted. If i need to get out the truck on a hill I have to leave it in gear and turn it off.

 

My ebrake is working, but once on a steep decent the crawl box popped out of gear. Has that happened to you?

 

not yet. Check your detent ball spring and make sure the shifter isn’t hitting anything on the body.

 

Look into hydro boost master cylinders.

 

i had my twin stick do that. popped into neutral a couple times going down hill on a trail. scared the fuck out of me and my passenger. he had to hold that shit in place while i drove. Got the detent ball spring from marlin. it sits inside the bigger spring that is already in the case.

also, i ended up changing out my fj case with a new one and didnt twin stick it. didnt have the need since if i want 2 lo, i just put the crawl box into lo.

 

I unfortunately cant put in a master cylinder that is any bigger. The electronics panel goes in that area with just enough room for the current master cylinder.

 

Thanks, I will!

 

Ive seen people remote mount them to fit a larger master cylinder

 

I recently had the opportunity to install this kit on a customer's truck. Here are my findings if anyone is interested:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rclt-hd-2-75-travel-numbers-and-notes.771723/

 

You simply have more torque than the brakes can handle. When I had duals/4.7s/5.38s, even with one ton brakes/master/booster, the brakes were just barely enough to kill the little 2rz at idle.