Engine Whining - Stealarship cost for alternator, idler pulley, belt...

I've been through the threads about the whining from the engine bay - could be idler pulley, alternator, etc. 200K on the 2010 truck so this is scheduled maintenance.

I'm busy with work and a baby twins at home, so for the first time in my entire life I'm considering going to the stealership. It's also ripping hot where I live right now.

I don't trust Jonny Mechanic down the street. Any ideas what the dealerships charge for alternator, pulley(s), belt?

 

I get that you are busy, But take the 20 min to pull the serpentine belt on a cold truck and spin the idlers and alt by hand rather than having a dealership just BEND you over. Also what kind of noise is it? Got video? my diode pack on my alternator had one set that went bad and created a wining noise even though the alternator bearings and idler bearings were all perfectly smooth - you can determine if its this by on a running truck with it making the noise unplug the small 4 pin connector on the alternator.

 

Call the dealer and ask?

 

I'd rather not call the dealer and ask the price, I prefer to have my ammo ready first.

I'll have to look up "diode pack" - never heard of it.

 

How long has it been since you've done your serpentine belt? I could've sworn that I had a worn idler pulley on my previous 2006 Taco, but it was just the serpentine belt. They don't last too terribly long on these trucks before they start squeaking in the cold - I think my last one first did it at around 40k-50k in and I replaced it after it was on for ~85k.

Granted, that noise is more of a squeaking/squealing than a whine, so just food for thought.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-1grfe-alternator-rebuild-mud-cleanout.453757/

 

I've never replaced ANYTHING on the truck! All original. I've changed all the fluids obsessively. Engine bay is perfectly clean with no leaks whatsoever. It's weird that this noise came all-of-a-sudden but I guess that's the way it is.

I'm currently struggling with even the time to remove my skid plate and catalytic converter, but I'd at least like to try to remove the belt(s) and spin everything.

 

Get a video of the whine and post it. We are hear to help but cant do much without at least a walk around while its doing it.

I would try pulling the plug on the alternator while its running, that will give you a real good idea if its electrical from the alt, or mechanical bearing noise somewhere else. Then pull the belt and spin things.

 

Actually, finding a good 'Jonny Mechanic' is where I would be headed with that repair. If you have the NextDoor app, ask on that for a good shop for your area. Generally, you will get a few good suggestions and you can investigate from there. I am the other way around, my local dealership is FULL of technicians who do not care and are just waiting for the 5PM bell. A couple of visits for a couple of recalls and work requests confirmed that painfully for me. Luckily, I found a competent and caring local shop.

 

https://youtu.be/37U4ChjHsmw

Well I'll be a monkey's uncle. Disconnecting the green tab on the alternator indeed made the noise go away. I messed up the video and I don't have a video of it running.

OK so what's next?

 

So the noise 100% went away when you unplugged the 4 pin green plug? The noise in the video definitely sounds like the noise I had. If so Then its your alternator diode pack that has a bad diode. Like linked above you can go through the process to rebuild it or get a good denso remand unit from Napa / rock auto (for way less)

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DEN2101084?impressionRank=9

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11195433&cc=3015100&pt=2412&jsn=854&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86+AYIhylPKrF7bIqGdrWKuP14r+XskRz67wIgr+FnKbxeYP4QC2nDXN+TTQvUF5FZczsQ25fCJ5YbJxwGLu+Id2PWCWnjA7GiPh9ARr95Di+9TAEyYHfJFweULMAEsCz+sni59eoC0kNPC2YeGS5c+DQgIjq3Qv5eiyYWSGFRzASzykAw/dKJW8bTMKb0VawEeCf0Vn5Fbo3F3Aqsp1s+3+M0duwF+vA5gia7Q1O3wDfSrlOV66sfSA3sEewpQiaFdEyIiqyGFX4jhUT69SUR9xRn9KymR9DkXXqlH

I would also consider at the same time, replacing the serpentine belt with an OEM one. Your idler pulleys are likely fine, you could loosen the serpentine belt before buying parts to spin them by hand to see what they feel like, but with how clean your engine bay looks I doubt they have seen a hard life full of contaminates from off roading or bad weather.

 

Another option on the alternator is to have it rebuilt locally if you have a historically reputable electrical shop in your community.

The one I use here would gladly take a new belt I brought them and install it for me while putting things back together.

I've found it cheaper to have this done, parts and labor, than a big box reman purchase and my own labor.

Tip. At 200k, your truck needs more attention than lubricants.

 

Yes, to my surprise the problem is 100% gone after disconnecting the green tab.

It looks like I'm doing the alternator and serpentine belt while I'm at it. I will certainly check the idler pulleys.

I've seen NO off-roading or bad weather and as you can see the engine bay is quite clean. It could use a quick foam bath, though.

Yes, at 200K I have a laundry list of scheduled maintenance, one of which was replace the belts and rubber hoses.

I am very surprised this noise would come all-of-a-sudden and disconnecting the alternator stops the problem. Why is this? Something inside stops spinning?

And how much longer to I have until the whole thing goes kaput?

 

From my alternator thread

As far as other maintenance, just a general once over on the truck, I wouldnt bother with rubber hoses unless you see signs of cracking. Spark plugs if its time, MAF cleaning, Air filter, coolant and greasing up the U joints of the driveline are other quick and easy ones that will keep things going for a long time.

 

OK I read the "phases" thing, I'm an engineer so I understand that part, but I don't understand the noise itself. (I guess I'm not a good engineer )

Should I lay off the a/c until it's fixed? I just need to go to/fro work & the dealership, about 11 miles each leg no freeway.

 

AC wont make a difference with the issue with the alternator. Again I wouldnt bother with the dealership, they are going to charge you an arm and a leg (probably over double) for the same remand alternator and labor is going to be through the roof.

You can drive on it some, keep an eye on the battery light but realistically get it fixed asap.

 

Agreed. Good advice I had similar issues with my '07 pre runner and swapped the alternator back in 2021 with a reman denso unit from https://www.rockauto.com/.

 

301k miles now on my alternator that I rebuilt and not an issue out of the bearings or other parts. Like everything YMMV and I have a spare alternator sitting on the shelf.

 

Oh yeah no doubt a properly rebuilt alt will go a long time, they are pretty darned simple. Also having the spare on the shelf makes the one in use behave for longer, proven fact.

 

UPDATE:

Just so happens that the alignment shop that I use near my work also has a highly-recommended mechanic.

It's going to be "only" two hours labor for alternator, serpentine belt, and all pulleys. Not too bad. Parts prices are as you would expect. Since my thread is about the stealership price I will gladly come back and update with the total price from the mechanic.