2001 Tacoma 4x4 Rear Diff. Removal

Hi, attempting to remove rear differential, axles are pulled out about 6 inches, diff comes out about 1-2 inches and will not pull all the way out. What am I missing? Thanks!

 

You're going to want to pull the axles completely out - you don't want to leave them sitting on the axle seals. Get some caps for the end of the brake lines.

Do you have a locker? If you do, you need to either engage the locker via the button or remove the actuator and manually engage it.

After that (or if you don't have a locker) it's just a matter of wiggling it out and catching it. If you're having trouble, using a small pry bar (being very careful not to damage the mating surfaces) is helpful to get it past the point where you are.

 

Andy, thanks for the reply, it does have the locker, have not engaged locker. Tried to remove actuator could get to nut on back of actuator left side. Will plug back and engage electrically. Recommendations on how to get to the nut on the left side behind it? Thanks

 

Even though I just did this a few months ago, I don't remember having any issues removing the actuator. You just need to keep in mind "where you are". You don't want to push the locker button again while the 3rd member is out.

 

So push the diff all the way back in engage the locker then remove the diff? What do you mean by 3rd member?

 

Yes, put everything back together (maybe even the axles) and engage the locker- and check to make sure that both axles are actually locked together.


The 3rd member/differential carrier is the component you are removing:

 

For what it's worth:

You want to remove the actuator, not what they are labeling as the shaft retainer.

 

The 1st Gen is essentially the same as the 2nd Gen.
Here is a DIY - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-installation-of-e-locker-3rd-member.193828/

 

Thanks for all the assistance will work on it tonight.

 

Don't forget to pre-load the actuator/locker gears. If you don't, it may still work but not be fully engaged. Lots of folks are running around like this. The "pre-load" bit is at the end.

 

The actuator comes off with the removal of 3 fasteners, the two 12mm nuts that are on the long studs and one 12mm bolt on the bottom left corner of the actuator. You also want to disconnect the two electrical connectors, disconnect the electrical connector bracket, and disconnect the small 1/4" rubber breather hose. I recommend disconnecting the breather hose from the plastic pipe side that leads to the breather rather than trying to pull the hose off the nipple on the actuator. Once you have everything disconnected, all you have to do is pull back on the actuator and wiggle it a little because there's a rubber o-ring that seats it into the differential case.

Once the actuator is off, you will want to shift the gear with your finger or a screwdriver to the left or towards the differential pumpkin (3rd member). This will move the shift fork towards the differential sliding the locking sleeve into the locked position.

When you put the actuator back in, you have to remember electronically what position it was in. So, if you had the button in the unlocked position, you will need to install the actuator with the shift fork in the unlocked position as well (towards the driver side). Conversely, if you pulled the actuator with the e-locker locked, you will need to make sure the shift work is pushed towards the differential (towards the passenger side) when you reinstall the actuator. If you mess up, the locker won't engage properly and leave you wondering what is wrong.

 

Thanks a bunch for all the input, did not have to remove the actuator, was able to engage the locker and the diff slid right off. Now the big question, removed the rear differ to remove it. The pinion gear shear off right below the splines as it enter the housing. How difficult is it to replace the pinion and ring gear? Is this something I should tackle, fine a local shop that can or just replace the rear diff with one from a salvage yard. Appreciate all of your inputs. Thanks!

 

It's a fairly involved job to do correctly and it takes some specialty tools. I will have a video coming out soon that I shot with East Coast Gear Supply on how to rebuild one of these differentials.

 

Depends- Do you already have a press and press tooling? If you do, then it's something you might consider as long as you have time, patience, and a good understanding of the various diff components. If you don't already have a press, then it starts making more financial sense to send it off.