Big Three Wiring Upgrade - 2nd Gen Tacoma - Writeup with pictures!

Even if you routed that wire to the original location (the battery), the circuit path would be the same. It would still bridge the alternator fuse. This kit is badly designed from a circuit perspective, not necessarily a materials or construction perspective.

The correct method for your use case as I understand it (wanting a high output alternator to feed the battery during winching), aside from a second battery, would be to preserve the correct wiring path and upgrade the factory fuse. They are not commonly available in the form factor that bolts in the factory location, so it would require modification of the fusebox - possibly by inserting a jumper and using an inline or ANL fuse of the appropriate rating - but this is beyond the scope of a Big 3 kit.

I am also not sure that A) a high output alternator would give you much more winch time on a single battery than the factory tow alternator, or B) that a single battery would even draw that many more amps, but this is also beyond the scope of a simple Big 3 kit.

 

We will have to simply agree to disagree. There is nothing inherently wrong with the wiring kit itself. It would route power correctly for any heavy load or high output alternator system. Just have to get the other wire routed appropriately, or fused itself for protection.

 

The winch, or stereo, will be drawing power from the battery, not the alternator. The fuse could blow if the high output alternator is pushes through more amps than the fuse was designed for. But, yes, depending on how much power the winch draws (up to 450 amps for the big ones), the winch may require to be connected to the battery un-fused - follow the directions as provided by the manufacturer.

 

It's still a closed circuit. If the winch is pulling 900A and the battery is only able to provide 600A, then the remaining draw will be made on the alternator. There is no way around it. If you keep the existing 80A fuse, then the fuse blows, and the battery dies quickly, and you are stuck. With it wired directly from the alternator to the battery, maximum power is supplied directly, and where it is needed. Aftermarket custom car audio vehicles are wired the same way, direct from alternator to battery.

 

Wait, are you talking about a 900A winch in a Tacoma? A Warn 10,000 lb winch draws less than 400 peak. A Zeon 12 draws less than 500! You're talking way beyond a Big 3 kit and into significant revision of the vehicle systems.

Edit: Is there even that big of an alt available for these trucks?

 

@FLPanhandleTacoma You can do that if you don't mind burning your alternator should there be a spike or the wire grounds out. Always fuse any power wire leading to the alternator.

 

OK. I'm going to back down here. I get I am the new guy but everyone is coming at me full force here. I mean I guess my degree in automotive technology, my 35 years of experience, and the fact that I was an instructor teaching electrical systems and diagnostics just is irrelevant. Peace to everyone. I'll go elsewhere.

 

Ok so I just did the wiring upgrade this last month and the best picture I can draw on the spot showing the wiring from the alt to the battery and fuse box is this. From my understanding, also coming from a tech/eng background, the alt fuse is not there to protect the systems electronics. Its to make sure your alt doesn't catch on fire/melt if its trying to supply a load larger than its rated capacity (amps=heat).The other systems in the fuse box are fused already for their own protection. The battery I have has a max rated capacity of 5000A or something ridiculous (in short circuit), and systems will only pull the Amps they need they aren't force fed. The way you can bust electronics is almost the same as hydraulics (volts=pressure, amps=flow) if that makes any sense. So unless you really restrict your amp flow (too small wiring) or throw in a 24V (too much "pressure") then that layout is fine.

Edit : picture doesn't show it but I installed a jumper for where the fuse in the box used to be.

 

Just read through the whole debate in this thread and I guess I’ll just do the jumper to be safe. I have some spare ANL fuses anyways. Is it possible to get a picture or two of what you did so I can get a sense of it?

 

Yeah forsure I'll post a picture of it once I'm home

 

Could I wire in a switchboard/fuse block with factory harness wires?
Would I need to upgrade my wire sizes?

Anyone have a thread (or product/kits) suggestions on this?

Getting cluttered with electrical wires around factory fuse block and want to clean it up a bit without swapping wires around. More of an add-in modification.

 

@BigRed2513 yes, I have been working on my own version of this. Wire gage increase will depend on what you plan on running.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/8-gang-switch-panel-auxbeam-amazon.641431/

 

Your alternator looks weird.

 

little funky eh

 

Definitely forget to post the picture, my bad man

 

Thank you so much bro. I’m going to go the same route as you but with a 150 amp ANL for now since my alt is still stock. Will have to upgrade along with the alt here soon.

 

No problem man. I got my 200A alt off ebay for a resonable price. Good luck on the upgrade!

 

Can anyone say what gauge wires are used, I didn't see it anywhere in here

 

It’s 1/0 gauge wire. Also called 0 gauge.

 

given seller is NLA

why not go with JeepCables kit 1/0 paired with SDHQ terminals kit


https://www.jeepcables.com/products/tacoma-big-7-complete-kit-gen-2-2005-2015?variant=40888054120508