My tranny won't go in blues

After taking a break for 3 weeks, I jumped back onto the tranny mount/install on my 04 toco with a manual trans, and 2.4 engine. Just can't seem to get all the bolt to line up. The nub that serves as a guide will not line up on the right, if the one on the left is lined up to go in its hole. The temptation is to tighten the bolts and let that pull it in, but I know better. Aluminum is soft and easy to break. I must be missing something.
I thought about the throw out bearing. I don't think it could be installed backwards, but please look at this picture and tell me if it looks right. Is there anything you can tell me to help me get it to all line up on all sides so I can tighten down the bolts and move on?
Thank you.

 

Did you use a clutch guide alignment tool when you bolted up your clutch and pressure plate?

 

My tranny is confused too

If you are having trouble getting a good alignment to the pilot bearing, you may have to use a jack under the front of the engine so it will tilt the rear down. Sometimes you have to violently jiggle the trans in. That's assuming the trans is clocked correctly and not fighting the guide pins.

Also turn the output shaft slightly.

 

Yes I did. I checked it again before raising the tranny to put it in. I don't think that is the problem.

 

That is a good description of what we have been doing. It seems one of those guide pins won't go in. I want to get out there and look at alignment more carefully. If it's where I can, a gentle tap in the end of a flat blade screwdriver may be enough persuation to get it to move, if its real close. Perhaps working the clutch in and out will cause things to fall into place.

 

I find it often helps to jack up the front of the motor to pivot the back down, even just a few degrees can give huge amounts of clearance and greatly improve the angles.

 

Title misleading

 

Always make sure clutch disc slides on input shaft splines before install. Had a disc that had burrs on the splines and caused headaches.

 

To line things up on an Automatic (should work for manual too) I have a couple transmission bolts that I have cut the heads off. I screw them in on opposite sides and use them as guide pins when mounting the transmission onto the engine. Once trans and engine are mated, remove the headless bolts. You would need 2 extra trans bolts of course.

 

Something is not right. I went out this morning and got all the bolt tight enough to pull in flush. Because I was working alone, I turned the crank from the front of the engine to help with spline alignment. I felt good, but it was only temporary. I didn't put the bottom dust cover on, so I backed the 4 bottom bolts out and put the bottom dust cover in place, but had a hard time getting the bolts started. They just don't line up. The bottom 2 go into a piece that can be moved slightly with a pry bar. I got the one on the left started that way. The other 2, the drivers side bottom, and the next one up will not start. I was getting tired and frustrated. Cross threading is a real danger. So I quit for today. Getting hot anyway.
At one point I tried to move the clutch fork. It won't budge. So I hooked up the hydraulic slave cylinder. I had to open the bleeder valve to get it to collapse so I could get it in there. I pumped and pumped. I don't think it ever moved it.
I keep reminding myself that no one has been into this transmission since the Toyota factory. It was very hard to separate. The fact that both sides don't line up at the same time bothers me. Maybe a 1/16th of a ". just enough to keep it from lining up.
Then I noticed something. The engine seems slightly leaning. No straight up and down. Even so, that should not cause tranny/engine alignment problems. Should it? I can post pics of the lean, if you would like to see.
My helper will be available to help me on Saturday. Maybe I can figure something else out.
Thanks.

 

If the engines leaning forward that can definitely cause serious alignment issues, also the clutch disc has a front side and a back side and has to be put in the correct way, that may be causing some mating issues as well are you sure that you install the clutch disc correctly? The sides on the v6 disc look almost identical but are not.

 

This is a 2.4 4 cylinder.
Look at this old post. The side with the writing on it (Top pic) is in next to the flywheel. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2rz-clutch-orientation-2004-taco.773990/

This is how the motor leans

 

Is there any burrs on the bell housing where the guide pins go in? Burrs on the guide pins?? I coat with never seize !!

Reusing old bolts thread damage keeping things from starting ? might be on the engine block as well .

It really helps to have the engine as low as possible towards the rear of the truck. the front of the bell housing might be hitting on the trans tunnel. If things are twisted up or down side to side it will not go in.

I have a old drive shaft piece to move the input shaft to get the splines lined up. Needs to be in gear.

Turning the engine will move things to much it a very small movement your talking the width of a spline.

Did you try the clutch disc on the transmission before installing ?? New parts can so often be packed wrong .

Being a 2wd you don`t have a transfer case hanging on the back.

I can only say this repair has been a challenge on every step. For hanging in there.

*** it seems the side that was replaced is sitting much higher.

Your transmission will need to be cocked in the same direction.

 

Try having someone push or pull on the front of the engine while you try to stab the trans to see if you can get it to line up better. I fought mine for a while and had to disconnect the intake piping bc it was not letting the engine move and that was preventing it from lining up. Just a thought if you have another set of hands!

 

I did try the new clutch plane to be sure it would slide on the spline. I don't have a piece of the drive shaft, i have the whole thing. You gave me an idea. I could try to move the spline with that if I must reinstall the tranny. I hope not. This is a part of the job that is difficult solo. When I took it apart the passenger side guide post was a bear. Both were. I was finally able to tap a med. size flat screwdriver in, then a bigger one, then a pry bar. Back and forth from all sides many times. Its never been apart.
Thanks for your encouragement, as always!

 

I wish my my hip and knees were not so bad and fuel was cheaper I would sure come and help to get this finished.

 

If you mean the fuel intake, it is off the truck. We were having problems with the engine rocking back and forth on the motor mounts, so I reinstalled the exhaust pipe, to hold it steady.
Was yours a 4 cylinder? Did you use a jack?

 

New pilot bearing ?

 

I meant for the air intake piping. I had to disconnect the exhaust as well. And yes mines a 4 cylinder, but its a 2009. I used a trans jack to get that into place and then either a bottle jack on the crank pulley to slightly push up on it, or another set of hands to rock the engine back and forth while you try to stab the trans.

 

That would be great! I would welcome it!
I get out there and work and my back hurts for days. Ain't growing old a blast!