The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

I'm a strange bird but here is my battery analysis after spending a lot of time thinking about it for my 3 trucks.

Given the following X2 options at Batteries Plus Bulbs:
31 @ 1150 CCA, 100AH, 80 lbs, $440
27F @ 930 CCA, 92AH, 67 lbs, $400
24F @ 840 CCA, 76AH, 57 lbs, $350
35 @ 740 CCA, 60AH, 45 lbs, $350

Stock lead acid 24F is 700 CCA and 42 lbs?

I tend to be extreme. So far I've not purchased a 24 even though I believe that's the stock size for all 3 of my trucks. I run a stock lead acid 24 in the '16 with an optima 35 in the aux spot. Then '05 has an x2 27F and the '02 Tundra has an x2 31. The 31 is massive and I worry about it cracking the tray on the Tundra (I have a rago 31 cage and I think I'd like to relocate it to somewhere low on the frame and maybe run a 35 primary and dual batteries with a redarc just like I have on the '16 Tacoma.) Or just relocate the 31 and have aux posts in the stock location with a switch to disconnect it for maintenance.

The 35 I have as aux in the '16 was the primary for a couple of years and worked flawlessly. I really love the 35 size, it's shorter so you can stack some stuff on top of it and still have tons of clearance with the hood. I'm only using the lead acid there b/c I don't have a tune so it's stock voltage and the PO of the '05 bought that 24 new in Feb so I may as well use it up.

It's also worth noting that dual 35's is just a bit north of a single 31, just far more expensive since you need extra gear. So, dual 35's split driver and passenger could be a great option for maximum performance without putting weight on any one spot. I plan to go 35 as the primary on the '16 once the stock lead acid dies if I bite the bullet and pay for ovtune software.

Just some numbers to help people make decisions. Prices sure have gone up so it's a bummer if you buy something and wish you bought a different size. I stumbled into the 35 by accident but came to really love it, it has more than enough capacity to do everything the stock battery can do.

 

I have a CTEK as well. Mine's older - a 3300 I think.

No engine start mode, but otherwise a great charger.

 

Added an aftermarket battery tie down since the OEM one doesn't fit quite right.

ARANOVA Battery tie down with 1x 8" J hook & 1x 10" J hook. You could probably just get 2x 10" J hooks and cut one down or leave it.

 

Valid comments when comparing traditional lead acid to lithium-ion. Li can be depleted significantly and recharged without issue, whereas a lead acid battery being depleted significantly will damage the battery. However that that is not the same for an AGM. AGMs can take repeated discharge events and bounce right back, which is a major factor in favoring AGMs for extreme automotive use in things like winching. There is a reason AGMs are the go-to for highly reliable power sources in very demanding power-draw scenarios. I've never head of anyone winching with a Lithium battery. AGMs will incur some minor performance loss in very extreme discharge events, unlike Li but they also perform more favorably in extreme cold climates. For a truck I'd still favor the bullet proof reliability and broad temperature performance of an AGM. In a high performance car, I'd consider the weight reduction advantages of a Lithium battery.

 

ok the voltage booster is no longer available and im looking to boost the voltage to properly charge my agm, what are my options? i hear abou a ford or chevy fuse that works? any links or help appreciated

 

There are other products out there to accomplish the alt-s voltage boost in a properly designed way (achieving +0.5v with fuse protection). I used and linked the HKB unit because it was the simplest and most elegant.

I stumbled on this:
https://www.arclightleds.com/collec...ooster-5th-gen-4runner-fj-cruiser-pg2tb-brs6a

Or (but +0.4v)
https://voltageboosterpro.com/product/voltage-booster-pro-o-g-edition/
And
https://voltageboosterpro.com/product/voltage-booster-pro-texas-slim/

There are some seemingly home made type units sold on eBay as well, but spec a range of +0.5-0.7v, of which the later is a bit high.

You can of course also use a diode, but the charging boost may not be +0.5v as recommended (could be less or more) and you eliminate fuse protection. It is of course much cheaper.
https://www.chitown4x4.com/agm-battery-voltage-upgrade.html

There is a diode thread here with what some others have done:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/agm-battery-charging-alternator-voltage-booster.611314/

 

If you live in cold climates slightly less than 0.5V boost could be a good thing. Cold winter starts + a 0.5V booster can be right on the upper edge of comfort for system voltage, at least what Ive seen in my truck.

 

Yes, I’ve seen the same. Typically it is very short lived before dropping back down to more ideal numbers.

 

Such an informative thread. Finally replaced my 7 year old battery with the 27F Northstar + Diode from Oreilys!

 

I’ve been through the entire thread, but am still unclear on a few issues regarding using a battery tender with my 3rd gen:

• I read in many places the rule of thumb is that battery charger amperage should be at least 10% of the battery capacity (e.g. 10amps for 100Ah) - does that apply in this case or can I save money with a lower amperage charger?
  
  
• Should I disconnect the battery from the vehicle prior to connecting a tender? The manual only makes reference to disconnecting when using the reconditioning mode.

• If I’m connecting the battery to a tender once a month using the standard charging mode, will it ever be necessary to use the reconditioning mode? It seems strange to me that a single correct charge cycle a month can make up for all of the other cycles at below optimum voltage, but what do I know.

Thanks for all the research that went into this thread.

 

To your second point, I have never disconnected while charging in any of my vehicles. I like my radio presets and not resetting the ECM

 

I went through this thread and didn't see any information on 1st Gen Tacomas. Has anyone installed one of these on a 1st Gen.

 

OP has:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/crashnburn80s-1st-gen-trd-double-cab-build.762757/

 

Got my voltage booster in and at idle we've got a cool 14.28 volts. At least that's what my blue sea voltage meter in the bed says

 

How long after start up and what was it before?

 

Immediately but the engine was already warm. IIRC it was 13.6-13.8 before?

 

Which booster did you go with?

 

I am almost certain I will be going with the x2 27f battery. Originally thinking of the group 31, but due to the massive amount of weight I decided the 27 would be the perfect size.

In the event I did not go with the voltage booster and wanted to simply charge to full every 2-3 months what options can I do that with?

Dumb question, can I use a lithium external battery like a goal zero 1000x to charge the x2 to full 100%. Is that a possibility? If not what charger would be the best use?

 

Are you saying the HKB booster is not available at all? Or just not available until December? Because I just ordered a MK4 adjustable right now from their website and it went through fine. Maybe check the site again now that some time has passed?

Edit: Well shucks I just went back to the HKB site and maybe I ordered their last MK4 because now it says out of stock. MK2 and MK3 don't have the same out of stock warning so order quickly!

I'm one of them cold climate people, and using the DIY diode mod I was getting +0.6v with higher spikes when below freezing. Might be safe or might not be, but it was too high for my comfort. I am currently running the HKB MK3 and it works perfectly with much safer and more consistent +0.5v but I'd still prefer more like +0.4v in the cold. So I just ordered the MK4 adjustable which is what I should have just ordered to begin with. Initially I was scared off due to the high price but keep in mind HKB's website is in Austrailan dollary-doos. Still expensive but you'll spend just as much dicking around with all the other solutions and just wish you got the MK4 to begin with like me! Plan is to adjust +0.4v in winter and maybe turn it up to +0.5v in summer but that may not even be necessary. Correction: Math is hard and MK4 only does 0.2v increments so I'll probably just rock 0.4v.

Not sure about the Goal Zero charging but sounds a little wonky to me. I doubt there is a "best" charger, but an inexpensive route would be getting something like a

$30 NOCO Genius1 , 1A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries

NOCO Genius1 or

$40 Genius2D , 2A Direct-Mount Onboard Car Battery Charger, 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Marine, ATV, Truck and Deep Cycle Batteries

Genius2D to slow charge it overnight. That being said, if you buy the charger/maintainer you're already part of the way towards just buying an HKB voltage booster anyways. I prefer the "buy once, cry once" method myself but hey you do you. Correction: Ignore the crossed out text, you have a 3rd gen so booster won't work; you'd need a tune. Buy the NOCO charger and call it a day.

 

The adjustable booster is in 0.2v increments, aka 0.4v, 0.6v. It skips over 0.5v, unless you seasonally swap boosters. If you are looking to sell your HKB 0.5v booster, I’d gladly buy it. PM me if interested.