Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I’ll have to try that next time I have the coilovers out. I’ve been meaning to just for the pic lol

 

Even at that you're still not factoring frame twist. That frame is twisting on every single hit it sees, bumped or not. But if I recall, you're caged. So that's probably a very substantial key to your success.

 

I am cycling my dirt king lowers and new king coilovers today. I cut off my factory bumps and am putting on air bumps.

Advice for how much shock travel I should have left from when the bump is fully compressed?

I don't jump my truck. So looking for a typical setup and not something extreme.

 

Fully caged now but I wasn’t for the first few years. Did have uca double shears from the get go though.

 

Hydro bumps I like to account for the strike pad being fully worn out/ breaking off. So however thick that pad is should be still showing to be on the same side

 

Use the bump stop spacer as your bottom out reference and you’ll never have to worry about the super bump compressing too much.

 

We’ll either way, I’m just gonna start from scratch and make different shock towers and upper arms with vertical uniballs and air bumps off the spindle.

@81Trekker thanks for the new plates, I did notice they have a weld all the way across now and on the inside vs the two short welds on the old ones. And like I said originally I’d redesign them to easily take a shock tower brace tower to tower, that’s jd fab made. For those that don’t want bypasses but still like to hit bigger bumps. That fixes the shock towers flexing up and in.

 

calm down fan boy I’m just pointing something out, no need for all that. I’m not trying to shit on @81Trekker, I’m just pointing something out that broke so it can be improved. Since only like 2 other people in this thread use their kit, and harry or Jesse don’t wheel their product for now until they get their shop truck running.

 

You can just make a simple tower to tower brace that will do a whole lot because the OE towers are so low. I don’t think you fully understand the forces applied to the shock towers under hard abuse, especially on a leveraged out a arm application. If you want to really beat on your truck then I would start from scratch and build an engine cage. The bypass shock and hoop absorbs a ton of energy especially with bottom out control which is why I’m such a big advocate for them.

Out of curiosity what is comp/rebound valve stack on the shocks you used?

 

This is not true as the sliver truck with the cage is dam near mine. I have tons of time behind the wheel of it and the owner only takes it out with me. The truck then comes back to the shop after every trip for a prep so I know my way around a Tacoma that gets beat on. We knew from the start the intended purpose of the truck which is why it has 3.0 bypass shocks all around and hydro bumps up front. We have also increased the valving well beyond what our standard shocks come with as the truck primarily sees rough, high speed open desert.

 

Have you created a simple cross over tube in conjunction with your bypass hoop yet? I've been toying with this idea in an effort to minimize the flex but not ready to fully cage yet. I have the secondary shock mounts installed but no bypass. Just relying on them for additional strength.

 

I feel it would be tough to build a cross tube that would work on all trucks considering how much people pound on them, as is evident by this whole discussion. It would have to be adjustable in some form to bolt down on the towers. I'll bet the measurement from one truck to the next could differ substantially.

 

Agreed, that would be assuming I was asking them to offer a kit for such a purpose. I'm more interested in design/mounting ideas with such a setup.

 

Personally I will be using tube connectors on everything in the engine bay that would have to be removed for say engine removal. Really not much to it in my opinion. I feel you would be better going off of the coil tower instead of the bypass mount though. There used to be a vendor on here that was making braces. Not sure if they are still around or not.

 

Dirt designs I think? They used poly bushings for a removable cross tube

 

I think you're correct. Though it would not work with the JD bypass mounts. But a guy could very easily build off of the JD mounts. Lots of possibility. And I do think its worthwhile. Would be way easier to do with the JD inner fenders too.

 

It was Dirt Designs. Not sure if they still offer these but they would not work with the JD top mount or their secondary shock hoops.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...k-bucket-top-engine-crossover-bracket.403816/

 

You guys ever shoot any video by chance? Love to see that thing moving

 

Just to chime in. I like to think that i'm one of the guys that uses his truck. I beat the shit out of it at least twice a month in either johnson valley or Ocotillo wells. Last week at OW i'd hit some shit pretty hard that gave me "hey look a penny" moment....probably the first time since I put the SUA on almost 4 years ago. The front hit the berm of a dirtroad I was crossing pretty hard (almost the shape of a concrete curb but a bit higher but still made of dirt)...enough that i pulled over to give everthing a quick look see...no issues at all....steering wheel was still straight at the end of the day. All I can say is this would have been possibly day ending if it wasnt for the fact that I have all the JDfab tacoma product on the front of my truck. I also set my bumps very conservative. You can see in the pic that the bypass only gets to about 1/4 inch from bottoming out (im basing this off the oil/dirt line on the shaft)...the coilover is a bit more.

 

Careful, you'll be labeled as a fan boy. But I too have had similar experiences where I question how I was able to drive it away. And I attribute it to the JD parts. Hell, I've been driving the truck pretty hard for 2 years now on 37's and haven't had to realign the truck one single time.