Long Travel BS Thread

Leafs definitely have different demands when it comes to shocks. Leaf springs are a very progressive spring. Where as coils we run are usually linear. The more leafs compress the more they dampen on their own. Thus taking a fair bit of dampening requirement off of the shocks. This is where bleed plays it’s roll.

 

So tell my why this is a bad idea or what I am missing.

I’m going to finally start tubbing my truck next week. Obviously I need tire clearance but I think I can get another inch or so of uptravel if I clearance for my upper control arm.

After looking at a few engine bay pics and seeing the jd fab inner fenders, it got me thinking. Why not just hack the entire wheel well out and replace it with tube?

I’m moving my battery, switch pro, and compressor to the bed. That only leaves me with the fuse box, ps reservoir, washer reservoir, and misc wiring/ac lines.

For the pieces staying I can just add some tabs to bolt them to the tubes. Then just add some rubber fender liner stuff for dust. I live in CA so I don’t need to worry about salt or anything like that.

I’m debating putting it where this green line is. Then cut the firewall where needed as well of course.


In addition to the front and rear being bolted or welded, I’d run some bolts into the tube where it meets what’s left of the inner fender.

This seems a lot easier than cutting and welding in panels. Especially since I have a bunch to remove. There is probably something I am forgetting.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lsk-race-long-travel.650152/page-2

The thing to keep in mind is that you will still probably need to tub the inner firewall with cab. So you’re not going to totally avoid the hard work.

 

I used 1x1 square tube.

 

Oh yeah I’m dreading the firewall. That’s why I want to take the “easy” way out with the rest of it.

Nice. That would probably work better than round stock. Especially if I want to tuck it up against what’s left - not quite as extreme as what you did. Although I might as well do it like you did since I am hacking it off anyway.

You happy with the end result?

 

I added custom fender wells....which i'm now gonna cut out because i didn't go high enough...oh well they looked cool while they lasted.

 

Yeah im happy with it. Its easier to work on the truck without all the sheetmetal. If i added any panels i would make them removable.

I made a fuse box mount off the top of my strut tower. Made a crossbar to mount my PS resevoir and wires. And ill eventually be doing a cowl intake mod. I dont run windshield washer fluid.

 

Question for y’all long travel wizards here, what leaf spring options are there for the 3rd gen that aren’t Deaver or Icon? I vaguely remember something about a Chevy swap? Not positive. Anyway, I wanna do long travel (obviously) but looking for more budget friendly components. I’ve already set my heart on the Dirt King kit with Kings, for the front, but the rear is still a mystery for me. I’m going to run King for shocks but I’m looking for other options for the leaf pack.

Thanks guys

 

hate to break it to ya but if the price of a set of deavers vs any cheaper leaf spring is too much for you - you may be in over your head already by wanting to go long travel. If you're still determined you would be better off spending the big money on the rear suspension and keep the front simple/cheap like used UCAs and decent coilovers n thats it

 

That’s fair. Living in the number one state for inflation has definitely dampened my dreams of long travel. I can make it happen in time, I was just curious about the options out there.

 

DMZ, Dirt King, JD Fab, and Camburg all have nice user friendly rear long travel kits with bed cages. And pretty sure they all use deaver springs.

I don’t believe icon has LT leaf’s but could be wrong. Chevy 63” spring swap is popular for crawling but I’d never do it personally. Especially if you’re trying to do go fast stuff.

 

I’m also aware that there’s more than just the LT kit that’s needed like a steering rack swap, double sheer kit, spindle gussets and so on.

 

This is why I appreciate you lmao. I was just showing your instagram to my buddy who does the Baja every year. Guys got a sick ‘10 Silverado.

 

Yea don't take it personally. Long travel just gets expensive and costs add up quick when you include the extra maintenance and all the other little shit along the way
The chevy leafs are just a plain old chevy 63s you can find on pretty much any gas gm truck or suv with a solid axle rear. They're cheap and allow for big travel numbers because of the length but they don't work too well with these trucks for anything other than crawling. They're only like 3 leafs iirc, sorta flat, and strong so they won't flex/handle well unless you have a lot of weight and you're going slow. As far as other options i don't really know of any others that would be much cheaper than any of the usual ones. The deavers are a decent price point that's part of why they're so popular
You can weld so that only adds incentive to start with the back imo. A good spring under axle kit or even just the factory leafs but replace the hangers and plate the frame n shit to stiffen everything up. Your money will go a lot further starting there over a front kit, and it is possible to piece together a spring under setup one step at a time to make it easier on the budget. That's how i did mine

 

This was the info I was looking for right here. My rear leafs are pretty flat now with nothing in the bed…how would they benefit me in long travel? Just curious. My knowledge of long travel stops at “it looks cool af and soaks up a lot of the bumps and makes going fast in the dirt MUCH better.” And it helps with crawling but that’s not 100% my thing. It’s fun but fast is more funner

 

Only a well tuned truck will achieve the performance you’re describing. Lots of people just throw LT on their truck for the clout but never actually use it for it’s intended purpose, or never take the time to complete the build front & rear.

I second the previous posts. Start on the rear with a nice SUA setup and do the front later If you’re into the go fast stuff. The JD SUA kits seams very reasonably priced with solid performance. Maybe not the BIGGEST number claims in the game but that’s a lot of marketing. I’d put the JD setup on top of most other kits out there.

The Chevy 63 swap is also an option if you’re trying to be even more cost aware. Especially if you can do your own welding. Can’t say I’ve seen anyone do a 63 swap and successfully do the go fast stuff. Not saying it hasn’t been done but nobody comes to mind. Is a 63 swap a SUA or SOA?

 

I believe it’s still spring over.

 

I believe you are correct. Just not 100% sure. I’m sure you could figure out how to do SUA with them but the springs don’t have a lot of arch.

 

So what about the stock springs? I just can’t imagine that they would work for a go fast LT set up

 

Go fast LT setup you want a spring with a good amount of free arch. You can put any spring as a spring under setup and gain up travel. The added overall travel comes from the spring itself being a longer spring. I believe stock/ stock replacement springs have a 58” main leaf? Where most Tacoma long travel springs have a 62” main. You can use longer springs than 62” and gain even more droop, but the driveshaft will need to be modified to accommodate the wheel base change as the axle continues to drop