What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

If the power steering pump you have is OEM don't buy a new one, rebuild it. It's pretty easy. This thread, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-steering-pump-rebuild-how-to-with-photos.377002/ will show you how to do it.

Here are links for rebuild kits.

4 Cyl 2.7 3RZ rebuild kit: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~power~steering~pump~04446-04020.html
6 Cyl 3.4 5VZ rebuild kit:https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~power~steering~pump~04446-04010.html

 

Appreciate the links. I found that guide during my search but I wasn't sure if the P/S pump for the 3.4 was different enough to need a separate guide. I will probably do the timing belt job first, see where I'm at with bearing noise after that. I've read some threads on here where people thought their P/S pump was being loud and it ended up being the idler/tension pulley, or one of the pulleys on the A/C belt.

 

The only difference is the 3.4 pump does not have a bearing, so the job is actually easier.

 

If that's the case then I don't know there's any point in me rebuilding mine. It doesn't leak, it's just gotten really noisy since the temps have dropped. Not sure how much of that is just getting the PS fluid up to operating temp vs the pump getting worn out. It wasn't this noisy last year, but I did install a new rack and put a filter on the return line.

 

Even though they don't have a bearing they still get noisy when they wear out. Mine sure did. I actually wore out two, my original and then two years later the crappy aftermarket one I replaced it with. Luckily I had saved my original OEM pump. That is the one I rebuilt, and put back on. Nice and quiet, works like a charm. Tossed the aftermarket one in the bin.

 

Gas making its way down into the oil was the main concern when I realized my injectors were leaking (ignore the junk in the bottom, that's from the oil drain pan). This oil only has about 1000 miles on it, but it looks and smells terrible. Glad I changed it today.


Finally taking the rig to the mountains this week for some skiing at Northstar

 

Too bad I don't have to deal with that anymore.
Should it smell like propane lol?

 

What is the kit you mention? Interested.

 

My pump has a journal type bearing in it. I don't recall if there was a bushing that could be replaced or not. You can pull it apart easy enough and measure the pump fins. There is a spec in the fsm. They are a pretty simple machine. My guess is your screen is already dirty. Maybe you have a line failing. Are you using ATF?

My 04 2.7 did not have a standard ball bearing.

 

Wondering if I ruined these lower ball joints and tie rods. I ordered the LCE Sankei 555 lower ball joints before reading all these threads saying to only buy OEM because they come painted and a lot of other reasons. Anyway, I was painting some other parts with steel-it and decided to hit the ball joints and tie rods as well. I masked off the threads with the castle nuts and the boots, but painted the tie rod threads. Are these still okay to install? Or should I paint strip and wire brush those threads?

 

I'd at least hit the threads with a wire brush.

 

MCM Fab +3.5 Long Travel

 

If the threads are good, you're good. The important part is to make sure the bolts are torqued correctly and to check them annually (said by someone who doesn't, I'm not a great role model). I believe 555 is OEM these days; if the joints have a zero fitting they aren't. No fitting tells you it has a Teflon surface inside like OEM had. Another thing at is if the surface the flanged bolts contact at machined, that's OEM. If they aren't that's aftermarket and in my opinion allows for more movement that exaggerates the failures of the bolts on the LBJ.

 

Added 4 new Blaupunkt speakers and amp. Had to wake up the ATOTO I installed a couple weeks ago.

 

@m3bassman @easleycrawler thank you for the feedback. Glad to know they are salvageable. I’m comfortable with the torque specs. I’ve got the service manual for the 02, but what is a zero fitting?

 

Zero fitting is autocorrect speak for zerk fitting...a zerk fitting is where you pump grease into a joint using a grease gun

 

haha thank you. Zerk fitting makes way more sense to me. Good catch

 

The torque spec is defined by the bolt you are using. Can't go by the fsm as results very quite a bit. @SpikerEng just did a very thorough test on these.

 

100%. With the FSM I still glance at the bolt spec sheets. Even though those too might be in error. In the end, the gut knows best.

 

Fresh plugs, oil, coolant, brake/clutch fluid, some redline in the trans, Mobil synthetic in the diffs and t case. Fixed my wonky negative terminal with some creativity for now, and installed the headlight services harness for the 100w halogens to go in the cibies. Trucks going back to the farm for winter. Bed on this weekend if possible. Deal with the body work springtime.

She’s ready for another 482k miles