Replacement knuckles for 1st gen taco.

@Rachelsdaddy might be wrong about the anti-seize but he was spot on about the left handed drill bits. I've sheared more LBJ bolts then most on this site and that's how I've always gotten them out. Heat the spindle then start with a 1/8" LH bit. Work up to 1/4" and it will spin right out. I seriously doubt you fucked up the threads in the spindle. Once it's out just chase it with a thread chaser.

I'll leave this hear for you as well. Really good real world testing for LBJ bolts that should be a must read for these rigs. It's from T4R.org but the bolts are the same between the 1st gen Taco and 3rd gen 4Runner. @SpikerEng Did you ever post that info here? If you find a hot minute it'd be a worthy addition to the 1st gen section. Like STICKY worthy. Thanks man and thanks again for taking the time to do that.

 

Thx Area51. Just sent msgs to both. I am in CA as well and there isn't much available near me in terms of junk yards

 

If you're close, check Rancho Cordova. Probably the largest collection of yards with toyota parts in CA. At least that I'm aware of.

www.ranchotoyotatruckparts.com
http://www.toyautomartca.com/

also check www.car-part.com

@BartMaster1234 is the salvage yard guru. He might be able to recommend a few in your general area.

 

Bring it to a machinist. We are wicked smart.

 

Yes. I have never in my life had a properly torqued bolt come loose. And you can take them apart again. I'm an industrial mechanic/machinist, nearly 40yrs. It's not a component in a nuclear reactor coolant pump or a crucial fastner on an aircraft. If the manual said to smear mayo all over the truck to prevent UV damage, some may just head to Costco

 

RachelsDaddy - thread locker or anti-sieze on the LBJs???

 

I antisneeze most things, and I think that includes my bj bolts last time. Like you said, properly torqued and they stay just fine.

The only place I’ve found loctite to be truly necessary is my single cylinder motorcycle with all of its high frequency vibrations. So much of the body will just rattle itself apart. Pieces on our trucks don’t see vibes even remotely close to that, so loctite generally seems superfluous to me. Even more so in the Midwest since our usual problem is things never coming apart.

 

@theesotericone you are welcome my friend! And yes, I did post the results on this forum - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-wanted-about-lower-ball-joint-bolts.772506/

To the OP, I am also confident that the broken bolt shanks will come out with vise grips. 99% likelihood the knuckle threads are fine (the knuckle is in fact forged, not cast). Female threads are almost always much stronger than male threads in similar materials.

I've (intentionally) broken dozens of these bolts, and in most cases the broken shank could be removed with my fingers, though some others required pliers. But none required retapping or heli-coils.

About some other comments on this thread. The advice is spot on - 59 ft-lbs for OEM flanged bolts or ARP; 37 ft-lbs for OEM black bolts with washer. I would not use any non-branded bolt, because they have a huge variability in preload vs torque. And if you use any kind of anti-seize, you'll have to decrease the applied torque.

I am also very anti-loctite - it does not hold the bolt very well (unless you go with red), and it really screws up preload to torque relationship. I'd prefer something like this:

 

Anti-seize on anything you want to take apart again. I like the nickel over copper. Put it on the studs, the taper, the cotter pins, upper balljoints too. The next guy/girl will thank you

 

I suppose you could drill and safety wire them too

 

True, but proper safety wiring is a skill most folks don't have. And improper safety wiring just gives a false sense of security.

 

Ok I ended up having to work today. What bolts should I order? I don't have the rubber dust cap ball joints. They weren't on the truck to begin with so what bolts should I order the 37ft lb with washer or the 59ft lb without?

 

59 without

 

10 4. The arp is what I'll go with.

 

I had to walk away from the Job and now after reading some of the bolt strength thread I'm hopeful the threads on the knuckle are OK. We will see

 

Hey everybody. I got started this morning and this bolt started to turn up with clean threads and about 2 threads before coming out I hit the cv. I'm gonna cut this bolt and turn it the rest of the way.

 

Is there a reason you are threading them "in" (towards the CV) rather than "out" (away from CV)? If you take out the remaining fasteners holding the LBJ to the knuckle and separate them, you should be able to grab the broken shank and thread it out (away from CV). No?

 

OKso I threaded the bad broke one up and it came out by vicegrips. The other 3 came out and I replaced with arp. The truck is now back on the road and driving great. The swaybar is NOT going back on either.

 

Naah I just vice gripped it up and removed the other 3 replacing with the arp one at a time. Trying to upload pics but for some reason it's not letting me

 

Oh yeah and I torqued to 59ft lbs this time lol