FS: Fuse block mounts for behind the taillights $59

Love this idea. One question, where are the relays?

 

I mounted waterproof relays in the space above and to the right of the fuse block.

$26 irhapsody 5 Pack 40/30 AMP 12V DC Waterproof Relay and Harness - Heavy Duty 12 AWG Tinned Copper Wires, 5-PIN SPDT Automotive Relay

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FSZWVT?ie=UTF8

 

Got a fuse block from @switch as I like doing things right. My Alu Cab came with LED lights and I could have just ran power and ground to them from the battery, and used the switch at the light to turn them on or off. But long term I might run more stuff in the bed area.

Ran 10gauge from the battery (black wire so it blends in, I hate bright wires where they are seen), 10gauge ground to the bolt on the frame near the drivers rear shock. All accessories off the fuse block are or will be 16gauge. Mounted my switches in the bed.

I have @daveeasa reverse lights disable mod, so that's the relay next to the 3d printed mount. With everything in there, it is a tight fit, which I expected going in. I will probably only ever use 3 circuits max back there, so not concerned with fighting with it a few more times. I also don't think there's a way to shrink anything much to make fitment easier.

Good solution to a problem I didn't know I had.

 

@aturk you might be able to move the relay up one stud to a bit higher. If that buys any space. Though if you zip tied the harness then that’s another $1 and some time to redo.

 

My only other thought is maybe doing mine on the passenger side taillight. I’ll check it out. My shell fuse boxes are all driver side though. So I could maybe do a special edition DIR with longer lengths which mounts higher up.

 

Contrary to what the pic shows, it’s not really in the way of anything just makes getting the wires in the 3d printed mount a little tough. I’d like to see it printed with just holes for the positive leads.

I re did about 20 zip ties last night finishing this. Expert zip tie installer at this point. Wiring is easy, hiding it all and making it look neat is the sucky part. Running the wires clean means running them short, which means install sucks. I’m done for now though, ankle surgery and several months of downtime in 3 weeks. Just didn’t want any projects left on the to do list.

 

You might want to put some

Tintvent Rubber Edge Trim Black,U Channel Plastic,Car Door Edge Guards,Metal Edge Protector Fit for Most Car, 16.4ft(5M)

rubber edged trim on the metal where the wires enter the taillight assembly area.


see
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/show-off-your-aux-fuse-panels.308677/page-82#post-27855399

 

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I ordered the driver side one but now need to passenger side, anything special I need to do to make it fit?

 

I print one that is a mirror image of the driver's side. So the holes are in the right spot.

 

S, I want these too.

 

I printed a couple of these if you are still interested. PM me.

 

Finally got around to installing mine. Worked out great.

I just have power run to it, need to get some more wire for my ground then start migrating accessories to the fuse block and install the bed light switch panel.

Fit was great! Really well-thought-out and clean install option. I did have to swap out one bedside bolt for a shorter one as it was interfering with the cover.