Another dome light question.

I've searched all the info I can find on Tacomaworld regarding late model 1st gens and can't find this specific issue. I have a factory/dealer installed security system that came with the truck. I replaced my dome light with an LED and with the dome light set to door, the light comes on when I use the remote to unlock the truck, but goes back off when I actually open the door. When I put the key in the ignition and start the truck, the light comes on for a second and goes back off. Works normal in the on position. Works normal if the engine is already on and I open the door. Even does a little fade out. I initially got a dome light from Jumper's LEDs, but that overheated and would just flicker a few times and go out altogether after a few weeks of use. I say it overheated because it burned the coating off the resistor that was soldered to the LED. It did come on with the door open though. This is the bulb that I am currently using.

Yorkim DE3022 LED Bulb 31mm Festoon LED Bulb White Super Bright CANBUS 10-SMD 4014 Chipsets, 3175 LED Bulb, DE3175 LED Bulb, 3022 LED For Car Interior dome map Lights, Pack of 4

$11 Yorkim DE3022 LED Bulb 31mm Festoon LED Bulb White Super Bright CANBUS 10-SMD 4014 Chipsets, 3175 LED Bulb, DE3175 LED Bulb, 3022 LED For Car Interior dome map Lights, Pack of 4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0142WSPA8

I'm guessing my problem lies with the bulb. I know there is an issue with the resistance that the bulb offers to the circuit vs a halogen. So am I just stuck trying different bulbs until I find one that works? Or is something else causing my problem.

 

Bluecord,
My 1st Gen has similar symptoms. I do not have the aftermarket security system, but did replace the incandescent bulbs with LEDs this week.
"...but goes back off when I actually open the door." - yes, mine does that as well. The ECU is running the light somehow and is looking for a specific resistance at the lamp - the resistance of an incandescent bulb. LEDs are diodes which require a certain voltage before they are "on" - it's like they have an internal switch based on the voltage applied. Low voltage (~2.5 v) = switch open, high voltage (~5 v) = switch closed and light on. On top of that each LED light has internal circuitry to reduce the 11.5v-14.4v of the truck to the ~5v the LED needs. That circuitry is providing erroneous readings the ECU, and that's why it is dim or not working.
"Works normal in the on position. Works normal if the engine is already on and I open the door." - yes, mine does the same. However, without the ignition switch in the on position the LEDs either do not work or are very dim.

solutions - I'm looking for one myself. Some people solder a resistor to the LED and that fixes the problem, other people have purchased LEDs that work.

Here are a couple of threads with possible solutions:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/weird-led-map-dome-light-issue.494781/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dome-light.511351/page-2#post-16157474

Let us know if you find a solution!
-cm

 

03-04s I think are more finnicky than other 1st gens with lighting. Your door switches could be going bad; ususally you get a flicker, not just an out, but it's possible...
A 4runner I had would randomly freak out the cab light when in auto. Pushed the door switch manually and it would chill out.

 

Without seeing the Alarm Schematic and How it is connected to the truck harness this is going to be interesting .

With the problems your having plus the normal cranky dome light issues.

 

I had zero issues on my 2003 with the Toyota RS3200 keyless system with the free alarm upgrade.

I used an LED from Superbrightleds and soldered the correct resistors parallel to it. The 30 min timeout still worked fine as well (where you leave the light on and the truck shuts it off after 30min to keep from draining the battery).

 

Mind sharing what resistors you used and the process? The one I got from Jumpers had a resistor soldered on, but must not have been the right one cause it overheated and stopped working.

 

My notes state: “4x 100 Ohm / 1-Watt resistors”

The key is the higher wattage resistors.
The resistance may be different depending on the LED you have, how much resistance it has, and how much power it uses.