Acceleration Issue.. Only when warm?

Hey, this is my first post. I hope I’m in the right spot, I’ve got a 2004 Tacoma TRD, 5 speed 4x4. With the supercharged 3.4. Only 105k miles too !
I recently have been having some weird issues, and I was hoping someone here might have a better idea as to what’s going on. I’ve always been a vw/Audi guy, so taking a step into unknown territory here haha, especially with the supercharger.

essentially, after I start my truck and start driving, for say the first 5 minutes if I punch it, it’ll throw me back and pull nicely thru the rpm’s. After I’ve been driving for a while, if I punch it, it will hit flat spots in the rpms and almost sounds like it’s choking out. Becomes an absolute dog. I’ve had a check engine light since I got the truck for evap issues, but recently I also started getting knock sensor codes. I was wondering if anyone here has any other insight? Thank you.

CODES -
P0325
P0037
P0330
P0441
P0442
P0446

I have cleaned the maf and replaced the spark plugs, very recently in hopes for this just being an easy fix, but no luck.

 

Welcome To TW....

 

The SC prefers 2 step cooler range spark plugs. Which ones did you install?

Are you running the stock size (2.37") pulley on the SC?

What fuel mods are done on the truck? High flow fuel pump?

Are you running an aftermarket piggyback like a URD 7th injector setup or a standalone like a Haltech computer to manage timing and fuel?

 

So those are EVAP, O2, and knock sensor codes.
It sounds like your truck is retarding timing heavily when you step on it, and probably isn't happy due primarily to the O2 code (after a few mins of not reaching O2 temp, closed loop correction will fail wildly). Are you on 91 at least?

I'd stop driving it completely, actually, until you figure out the O2 issue. You're running the risk of severe engine damage as shown by the knock sensor codes.

The EVAP is not anywhere near as big an issue but you will fail emissions in most areas.

 

I was wondering the same thing on spark plugs, I always run cooler plugs with more boost on my cars, but wasn’t sure exactly where to go. As far as I know, everything on this truck is stock. The only things that I have changed were a cold air intake (soon to be replaced with a snorkel) & cat delete.

What plugs would you recommend? I believe I grabbed factory replacement plugs.

 

Running only 93, as I’ve done with all forced induction engines I’ve owned. Definitely haven’t been driving it as much, and when I do I stay below half throttle. Definitely looking to get her sorted before any more trail riding !

 

I agree with Trey, don't drive it until you sort out the knocking issues or you may ruin that low mileage engine.

There are not going to be any simple-quick-easy fixes for this. New plugs will only be a small part of this. I am running NGK Ruthenium FR7BHX-S, heat range 7.

Sounds like there is no aftermarket piggyback or standalone fuel and timing management. This spells expensive trouble for you in the long run.

 

Those first 5 mins are when you are in open loop mode, where the fuel and timing tables are factory set. After that I guarantee your trims are all over the place due to the O2 sensor failout. I bet anything if you were to reset the battery, you'd get a couple mins of extra pull before it starts having issues again.

 

i didn’t realize that either of those would be required for a factory supercharger to run alright, planning on replacing the 02 sensor this weekend, should I start looking into fuel management? If so what would you recommend?

 

Those things aren't requirements for straight factory, but it will give you more control. Look up "7th injector". Factory will richen to some degree but the next step is to get a wideband and 7th injector kit & controller and tune the open loop fuel map (which is also triggered under WOT).

 

That was true only for some, even when new. 20 years of wear and tear will take its toll.

There are a lot of threads on this topic on here. There are a lot of folks who've made what you have work. Here are a few to check out.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3-4l-supercharger.629337/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...4-silver-bullet-tune-www-snpspeed-com.722842/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...cu-discussion-haltech-megasquirt-link.772300/

 

Any recommendation for a good replacement primary 02 sensor?

 

Denso/OEM

 

The upstream sensor is actually an air/fuel ratio sensor. The downstream one is the O2 sensor. Use Denso brand. That's OEM. Significantly more reliable.

 

That's true on an 04, yep

 

A few weeks ago on a trail, I had hung up and caught my exhaust pretty hard, ended up ripping it in half just about. Completely dislodged my rear o2 sensor, and cut the front wires on my front o2(AFR) sensor. I put the front sensor back together with butt connectors. Just so that I don’t miss anything, I’ve always been told that the second (downstream) sensor is not important for engine health, more of a test to see if your cats are doing their job. And since I never got new cats and just replaced them with a muffler after this incident, I never re installed the secondary o2 sensor. I’m assuming the primary one is not loving life at the moment due to the butt connectors that I used on the wiring possibly adding some resistance into the equation. I just ordered a replacement upstream sensor, should I also worry about the downstream one? check engine light / inspection doesn’t concern me.

 

Well all CELs/codes are important, and will impact how the truck runs. The downstream o2 sensor is there to tell you the efficiency of your CATs. I don't see the p0420 code on your list.

If it were me, I'd replace the AFR sensor and the crank position sensor and see where you are at. The crank sensor codes are troubling. Are you regularly bouncing off the rev limiter?

P0037 AFR Sensor
P0325 Crank Position sensor
P0330 Crank Position sensor
P0441 evap
P0442 evap
P0446 evap

 

Is it possible the heater wires are not making connection? Would be an easy way to save 60 bucks. Rear sensor is to check the health of the catalytic converter, and it at least needs to be connected electrically or you will also get these issues. ("failover" mode)

 

When I ran those codes I got knock sensor as a label, I have hit limiter a couple times while climbing snow covered hills on trails - will definitely look into that. Also faulty crank position sensor would explain the flat spots in the Rpm’s.

 

there is absolutely 0 rear sensor connected to my truck at the moment, I’ll get on that. Will I need to attach it to the exhaust as well in order to avoid issues as far as engine health goes? - and I’m sorry if this is a silly question bht what do you mean by heater wires?

PS - I’d like to really thank any and everyone that has contributed to this thread. You guys are really great !!