Truck cranks but will not start [Solved].

Next check power.
Last plug (5th down) E8.
Check for battery voltage at pin# 1 (black), pin# 2 (black), pin# 3 (blue), pin#7 (green) pin# 9 (orange).

 

You can ground to the metal bracket that the PCM is attached to, looks like @TnShooter has you sorted on the terminals to check.
Remeber checks should be done with the key on.

 

So testing for ground and power can be done that way? When I tested the coil ground/power I used the positive terminal for ground and the negative terminal for power with my test light.

 

Since your testing with the circuit "loaded" (key on and PCM plugged in) checking from a known good ground to a suspect ground can be done, you want to see less than 100mv or 0.1v.
This is known as a "voltage drop test".
The thing to remember when doing such a test is the circuit needs to be " loaded" as in whatever you are testing needs to be turned on or a substituted load such as a test light is in the circuit.

Ideally powers and grounds should be checked with a test light but testing voltage with the PCM plugged in should tell us what we need to know in this case.

 

Yes, when checking power you can use the bracket as your ground.
When checking ground you use a known good power wire.
To be safe, I’d use a wire straight off the battery.

You could use a power wire from the ECM (such as pin#9 (orange) on the E8 connector.
If you do it this way, just make 100% certain you are on the correct wire.

 

Perfect, I'll just run a lead from the battery to inside.
1-key on
2- Unplug E4 through E8 check for ground/power at the discussed pins with test light
3- Check battery voltage at the discussed pins

 

Just don't shove anything into the terminals and spread them if you do it this way, backprobing with it plugged in is easily done with a small paperclip, needle, or T-pin.

 

Not the best video.
In case you don’t know what back probing is
https://youtu.be/zjdLS2bWmF8

 

Got it, I'll report back with my findings. Have a good nice and thanks for the help.

 

No problem.

 

All my grounds are good but E7 has no wire in pin 26. Next, I'm going to check the voltage after the rain stops a little bit.

 

Voltage from on E8 is 12.28 for everything except pins #1 and #2. They're reading Zero

 

Those won't have power unless the EFI relay is turned on.

 

What about post #51? Pin #26 doesn't have a wire in that slot he wanted me to check the ground for.

 

E7 Pin 26 is only used on 2wd A/T.

 

Gotcha, does this help narrow anything down?

 

The truck still doesn’t crank?
And there is no power to the STA fuse?

Could the ECM kill the 5v reference if it doesn’t see signal to the Fuel Control pins?
If so, maybe the ground for the EFI relay is bad?
You say you don’t get power to pins 1 & 2?

 

So we have power and ground to everything at the PCM?

No, 5v ref is powered up anytime the PCM is.
It's looking like we have a short in the 5v ref circuit.

 

It cranks over but does not start. Recently the truck would take two separate cranks for it to start but it was rare. EFI No2 fuse(10A) has no power using the test light.

I got fuel on a Friday, traveled home with a 30 min ride with no issues, and Monday morning it wouldn't start. I did not hear the fuel pump prime so replaced that. I tested the old pump to power and it worked on the bench. I tried starting fluid and that doesn't work(Should did that from the start) The truck still didn't start so I replaced the crank sensor and while installing the alternator I noticed a rodent nest with the OCV sensor and the Cam sensor being chewed with 4 inches of wire missing.

 

So, back to this post.
But check for ground?
IF1 contains most of the 5v signals.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/truck-cranks-but-will-not-start.799571/page-2#post-28660018