What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Got some new shoes!

 

old:


New:



I've seen these in action, and they work very well!!

 

Replaced the wiper inserts.

 

Looks great man. I’m running the same setup, and for the money and my uses, I couldn’t be happier.

 

Made the bed more useful for a daily driver. Added a folding tonneau cover, bed divider (not pictured) and a locking tailgate handle.

 

light detail/wash and painted grill surround with duplicolor primer, base, clear. added bumpershellz. 99% of chrome deleted now! might paint the mirrors too.

 

I’m not taking credit for this voltage booster setup but I just did it and my charging voltage went from 13.54 to 14.1 volts at the battery. I used the gm diode part number
GM Genuine Parts 12135037 Multi-Function Diode
cost 9.00 on Amazon. I like this setup because it retains the fuse instead of just popping in the diode in place of the fuse. I got an alternator warning light at first but all I did was rotate the diode 180 degrees and no more light.

 

im confused
So what are the pros and cons and why didn’t Toyota do this stock?

I have always been taught and seen
That a resting new battery is 12.7v
and that with a good alternator on, regarding vehicles in general, charging voltage should rise to 14.5v.

so why Toyota would make it 13.5v stock I have no idea. Most vehicles do not take long trips regularly to slow trickle charge.

I’ve heard different manufacturers design their charging systems for certain types of batteries. But in my experience Toyota is always basic as fuck, and how your charging system is designed only becomes something to think about when switching to different kinds of batteries, electrical load add ons to support, etc

what other parts did you use?
Edit: according to Amazon description, this is to be done for switching to an AGM battery

 

@amyracecar Thank you for the below. I found this insight super helpful!
One clarification please; You mention a 'bleeder screw' and a 'bleeder valve' - can you confirm that these are BOTH referring to the same nipple looking fitting in the picture? (I do not see a screw type fitting in the pictures).

I imagine you turn the nipple type fitting in the picture to open and close, correct?

Thank you!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/agm-battery-charging-alternator-voltage-booster.611314/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/

 

high clearance bumper done and installed, now leaf springs and a better CMC is next

 

Got new UBJs installed on my SPC UCAs after finding out that one was blown last week prior to getting an alignment. Got them installed today and then an alignment at a new shop (not Firestone) that specializes in lifted trucks with aftermarket suspension components. What a difference. I went into Firestone after I had my Taco tabs installed a few weeks ago and the techs at Firestone didn't know what to think. An hour to an hour and a half at the new shop and there was no questions, no confusion, no nothing.

I need to start researching new UCAs soon that I want to replace the almost 10 year old SPC's. Still want similar adjustability to the SPCs or go with Camburg 1.25's or Icon tubular with delta joints.

 

for this purpose, bleeder screw = bleeder valve, I should have been more careful with my word choice

it is the metal/silver assembly in the photo that is attached to the slave cylinder
the bleeder assembly is a valve that is opened/closed by a specifically threaded bolt [bleeder screw]

• when tight, it seals the system
• when loosened, there is a small opening that allows fluid to be pushed out
• it can also let air back into the system = it is important to keep the other end of the hose, where the waste fluid is collected, submerged in a few inches of fluid; if air gets back in then you gotta start over

you do not turn the nipple part

• the nipple part should be covered with the hose, b/c that is where the old [corrosive] fluid will come out
• push the hose on past the flared nipple, to where the part narrows but before the bolt looking part; the hose should stay put/not slip off
• submerge other end of hose in fluid in refuse bottle

using the 10mm wrench, turn the bolt looking piece that sits between the nipple+slave cylinder to open/close the valve
loosen, push pedal and hold down
tighten, pull pedal up
repeat till purged


hopefully this clears it up for ya - if not lemme know and i'll try again

 

I need to paint my surround to match all the matte black trim on my base model.

 

man I have been wanting to check that area out there are some really good campsites up in that area. I second you on the Eibachs i freaking love mine i did shocks and their coilovers definitely like floating on clouds off road.

 

what kind of spray lithium grease did you use i need to do the same to mine and alot of people recommend doing the spray grease when not being able to disassemble leaf springs which could be expensive for just having to grease up the leafs.

 

B'laster silicone grease.

 

gonna go get a can from the home depot tomorrow being its less than half a mile from my work.

 

Installed URD cam gears. Butt dyno reads better throttle response for sure, less dogging down getting out of first, less resistance from engine breaking, higher idle.

I also think I got rid of the tacoma engine click

So far I'm coming back to the peppyness of stock, but with 35s. I'll probably get there with some aluminum pullies I have ready to install Thursday

 

Get the intake manifold spacer, and an ott tune next.