Anyone try using 10 to 15 mm wheel offset to fit 33s without a lift?

Another Pizza Cutter option for a 32" (31.7") is 235/85R16. Lots of options across several categories of tires. They are skinny but I have found them to be very capable over the years. There is a reason international Overlanders and Camel Trophy trucks use them. The skinny spare frees up ground clearance and the size can be found in just about any town if an emergency arises. I certainly understand if you feel it doesn't give you mall crawl cred though. As an added bonus prices are quite reasonable as well.

 

We agree on most things thus far in this thread.

I'd like to see if I can convey the "Engineering" as I understand it. I'm going to make two arguments one is based upon aesthetics, the other... well you decide.

Aesthetics:
My engineering statement was based upon the use of TWO parts where ONE part will suffice. The use of a spacer and rim together, versus a rim only with the desired offset is only ONE part. Which is better one part or two? My engineering says one. If one is going to do it wrong, do it right.

I look at spacers as being a tool one can use to "try out" differing tire "poke outs" to one's whim. Then selecting the rim that accomplishes their desires. Wouldn't it be nice if you could take a selection of differing width spacers home and try out the bunch at your leisure? Trying out both looks and fit. Perhaps there's a business idea for someone on this forum.

...your decision:
This was easier to perceive when there were two opposing taper bearings within a hub on a spindle. The load of the vehicle was placed between the two bearings for best bearing life. The use of a spacer removes that equilibrium between the two bearings and thus increases wear by placing the moment outside the bearing centers.

How much extra or unnecessary wear? I bet the bearing manufactures know. I'm sure an experienced tire shop knows this to some degree too, however they are in the business of selling you rims and tires AND perhaps a bearing job at a later date. Our truck's wheel bearings are not taper bearings, but a hub unit which changes things a bit, but I'd be really surprised if Toyota did not consult with a few bearing manufactures in their design for the vehicle's stock load configuration. Also considered in that design was where the load of the vehicle was placed. Those owners that violate that design, i.e. most of us, do so at our own minor to moderate maintenance peril.

To drive this image home, imagine a wheel/spacer with so much offset that the tire extends three feet outside the fender. Clearly one can see this would greatly increase the stress on the wheel bearings, among other parts.

...you decide.

 

You say no serious modifications - but i'm confused . . . . you have no front bumper to rub on and how much lift. Just sticking 285/75R16 on a stock TRD OR and taking it off road are you saying no rubbing ? this is hard to believe - everybody would be doing it.

 

How is a 285/75/R16 a 255/85/R16?

Your tire rubbing on the front of the wheel liner is a concern many do not express or contend with.

And again: YOUR LIFT DOES NOT IMPACT WHETHER OR NOT YOUR TIRES WILL OR WILL NOT RUB.

Check out this 163 page thread. People literally do do this every day: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/put-255-85-16s-on-stock-or-wheels-and-suspension.491079/

 

Liked your post , sent you a PM

 

My bad - I mis-read the tire size - thinking 33" = 285/75R16. Probably because I have been researching 285/75R16 and getting all kinds of conflicting information. But I get it about the 255/85R16 and no lift and no rub.
Bottom line I should mind my own business about 255/85R16s as I have no interest in running those.

 

After killing one of the original factory tires, I pulled the trigger on a new set of wheels and tires. I ended up going with some FJ steelies (+15 mm offset) and some 275/70R17 Wildpeak AT3Ws.

There seems to be plenty of room and no rubbing with the driving I’ve done today.

 

Oh, I like steelies, that is my future plan at the moment, subject to change. Where did you get them? Used or new?

 

They are new. I got them from a local Toyota dealership. I’ve seen them available for order from quite a few dealerships, usually about $125-$150 per wheel. The center caps are a bit pricey for what they are, $40-$50 each, but they do make the package look quite a bit nicer.

Wheel part number: 42611-35330
Center cap part number: 42603-35610

 

This is a good thread I had not seen before. It shows working through the multitude of factors. There is no magical exact fitment chart.

 

The 275 AT3Ws are on the large size of a 32” @ 32.4 inches. A 285 33” @ 32.7 inches would be tight, but might just barely fit. A little bit of plastic work might be required.

Here is the 275 clearance with +15 mm offset.

 

Ok, this morning I felt the need to verify UCA clearance while articulating. It’s -5 degrees F out. I know I’m crazy.

I took a picture of the clearance at normal height with the UCA pretty much horizontal, then jacked up the truck to lift the wheel off the ground to simulate full droop. I understand the sway bar will limit droop, but this test should give me an idea if there will be issues. Having the wheel droop pulls the tip of the UCA in, but the tire also widens too. Stuffing the wheel up wasn’t even considered since the UCA moves away from the top of the tire.

With the oversized 32” Wildpeaks, there is enough room to fit my hand in between the tire and UCA, probably 10 - 15 mm. I think a 285 tire @ 32.7” in diameter would just barely clear the UCA. Maybe a wheel with +13 mm offset would give a little more room without sticking out too far to cause major issues elsewhere.

(In the pictures, the clean spot on the UCA is from my glove, not tire rubbing)

 

You got it. The 285s can fit but front and back clearance will decrease the more offset than necessary for the tire width to clear the UCA.

Max front up travel to aftermarket bump stop isn't much more than 2.5" from stock without the swaybar attached, so the fender top edge is clear at stuff.

If my truck was totalled tomorrow, I don't know if I could do the total garage hours involved with 305W, 33.0D fitment. -19 on 8.5 wheels required a cmc, pinch weld smash, trim front plastic and back metal body, inner liner melt into the firewall, ends of fender flare, all for any all angle articulation clearance.

Bad ass but it is a lot of shop hours.

 

I did throw some +15 offset 4Runner OR wheels with Wildpeaks 285/70r17. I got them on FB Marketplace for 300. The tires are almost to the wear bar, but even. The inside of the tire rubs the stock Tacoma UCA when almost full lock turning either way. Lots of room everywhere else though. I do have a bit of positive camber, probably almost 1°. I don't think it would clear the UCA if it were 0°. A less aggressive shoulder like those found on Coopers might do the trick.