The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

I have to look into these. thanks for posting. got my new oem lights. just need time and a nice day to put them in. wasn't sure what to do about the DRL melting the new ones just like the old ones.

 

Million % better....
Thank you @crashnburn80 !

 

Interesting that they say they utilize fans on in high DRL mode. Seems like a very compact unit for fans. Replacing one end with LEDs can avoid hyper flash with the right products, replacing both ends (front/rear) is where people often get into trouble as the combined power drop front + rear is more likely to fall below the hyper flash threshold of the circuit than just doing the fronts.

 

Man you know more about this than I could ever imagine. All I can say is that for now no hyper flash. Drove around and no issues everything worked.
As to little fans , I have a hard time believing that .
The DRL' s are bright!
As to replacing both front and rear.
No I only replaced front.
I'll keep an eye on it.
Crash do you have any more insight on this?

 

That’s one of the downsides to me. I read something else that these were very bright. I’d rather have no DRL lights at all

 

I wish I could turn them off. But being an 09 there's no switch. Or just run headlights on all the time.

 

SO much better! Amazing what new lights can do.

 

i have the harness from "headlightservices" if anyone wants it for cheaper.
used it for 3 months and retrofitted projectors, so i dont need it anymore

https://www.headlightservices.com/Wiring.html

my retrofit

 

What year is your truck? Might be interested.

 

@Too Stroked 2X's this info. we all could use this info. Looks almost OEM.

 

Unfortunately, I no longer own that truck so I can't wander out and check the thread size for you. I can tell you that all I used was a simple 1" wide piece of scrap aluminum bar to mount the relays to. The nuts between the bar and the fender well were simply to space it out a bit. I use all stainless-steel hardware because I live in the rust belt and work at a marina.

 

Thanks for the reply Iguess trial and error will be my friend.

 

It's been posted a few times but I can't ever remember myself. Mine on the passenger side needed chasers, maybe some paint in there or something (for dual battery).

Source:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-sept-30th-2015.387403/page-65#post-11233221

Gut check says, I know the M6's in the rear taillight cavity are smaller and M12 for UCA and such is bigger so that leaves M8 or M10 and I think fender isn't that beefy so M8 would be the most likely guess. From there, thread pitch is just fine or course when there's an option but not even sure M8 comes in two different threads so I'd put 90% confidence in that even if it were some schmo and it's not, it's a reputable source.

 

Thanks I will check.

 

I would highly recommend a nut and bolt thread checker, saves so much effort and guesswork if you spend time working on vehicles.

Nut & Bolt Thread Checker (Inch & Metric), Original Version (SWTC-26), Stainless Steel

$27 Thread Checker SWTC-26 Nut & Bolt, Inch & Metric, Original Version

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FJW0GK

 

Thanks. will be much easier.

 

I just bought bolts for my diy bracket. I can confirm M8 x 1.25

 

Thanks.

 

I swapped out my older retrofit headlights with the stockers today. First I had to open them up to get rid of the chrome bezel.

Definitely enjoy the clean look again. But I need to swap out the bulbs for sure.

 

I want to do this upgrade but not sure if I have the budget for the new headlight assemblies. I think I missed the days of $100 headlight assemblies

Would restoring my stock units with a 2k clear rated for headlights suffice?