05+ DRL (Daytime Running Lights) Install OEM

About $56.00 for the parts. Shipping was $10.50. I also got tagged with tax since both myself and Toyota World (Champion Toyota) are in Texas.

Since I disconnected the battery to do the mod, my seatbelt chime is on. It was not on before I did the mod. I have seen talk on this forum that you can silence the chime. Does anyone know how or where on this forum the instructions are to set seatbelt chime to off.

 

Try this:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/4838-cheap-free-mods-3.html

 

Thanks Mark. That worked. I think its funny all the strange steps you have to go through to turn on/off things on vehicles these days!

 

You're welcome! It can become complicated! Would have been much easier if there were a bank of switches for idiot lights and alarms, for idiots like me!

 

Has anyone done this MOD on a 2010 Taco?

 

Yes!
Post 257.

 

I thought the 10's came with factory DRL's.

 

I was a little skeptical at first but i just did this mod in about 30 minutes and its great, much more visibility now!!! will post pics later

 

this is my truck with DTRL mod

 

Booya! Thanks Mark!

 

i saw another thread where people are having problems w/ their light housings melting w/ this mod. for all the guys that have done it and have put a few miles on their vehicles since the install, have you had any problems w/ the housings or lenses melting or discoloring?

 

I hope not, I just got those up and running!

 

Mine have been on for two years (19,000 miles) and no discoloration or melting.

 

20k here, not one issue. Do it!

 

I did this Sunday in about 40 minutes - however, once I finished and checked everything out and put everything back together, I noticed my OEM fog lights wouldn't come on! I spent the next 2 hrs. troubleshooting this, swapping relays, checking fuses, pulled the mod out and put the original flasher and jumper plug back in, still couldn't get the fog lights on. So, next morning I get ready to head to work, and I noticed the blue High Beams indicator was lit! Realized I had apparently inadvertantly turned the high beams on while working under the dash, and when I turned them off, voila! fog lights! Man was I relieved!

On another note, I can now actually HEAR the turn signal - the OEM flasher was so quite it was almost silent! Also, mine seem to work a bit differently from what the OP stated:

"Your truck will now have Daytime Running Lights when all the following are true:
1)Your engine is running.
2)Your Parking Brake is disengaged.
3)You are in gear (automatics only).
4)Your headlights are not on."

- I do not have to be in gear for the DTRL to come on, just release the parking brake and have the headlights off.

Great write up by the way, however, the plug in the back of the fuse block that the other connector on the Y harness plugs in to had a dummy jumper plug in it that the OP didn't mention (however, looking back at the instructions, a reader left a comment to this effect, but I don't think the OP understood what he was talking about, because his reply seemed to be regarding the large white plug that has a catch on one end and a lever you raise to pull the plug out) - took a while for me to figure this out.

 

appears they've updated the link
http://www.trdparts4u.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-5551

 

subbed for later

 

Just DRL'd my 05. About 45 mins start to finish. Great instructions!
Also dialectric greased every conection while in there as well. Thanks
For the detailed thread!

 

I just finished up the DRL install on my 2009 Tacoma. It took me about 45 minutes (and that was with taking a bunch of pictures).
I'd like to share my experience as well (along with all the photos). I realize I'm repeating a lot of what has already been said here, but I think it'll help folks in the future.

Note: With the exception of the door sill, all of the retention clips (kickplate, lower dash assembly, and storage tray) are horizontal. Thus all clips require you to pull straight toward the back of the truck (the door sill you pull straight up).

I did not disconnect my battery for this install, but I also did not disconnect every single plug from the electrical panel (see latter pics for details as to what I did disconnect). I did not have my alarm go off (but I did need to reset my clock).

I ordered this kit from TDR Parts 4U for $50: http://www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8794
But they have the same kit (with a picture) under a different part number for $50.35 here: http://www.trdparts4u.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-5551

Here are the tools that I used (10mm socket w/ extension, flat head screwdriver, and locking needle nose pliers):


Here are the parts you need (ignore the nuts on the floor mat ):


Start @ the drivers door sill:


Gently pull straight up on the rear edge of the plastic sill plate:


Work your way toward the front of the truck and be sure to pull straight up:


Here is a shot of the plastic sill removed:


Next pull the footrest straight out:


Then remove the little rubber grommet next to the footrest (it's holding the kick panel in place):


Now you can remove the kick panel by pulling straight back (mine was a bit loose at the top, so it was fairly easy to get my fingers behind it there)
There are two clips that hold the kick panel in place - one in the middle and one toward the top:


I have an automatic so I have a little tray where the emergency brake on the manual transmission is located. Pull the tray straight back to remove (also note the flip down cover that hides the right-hand mounting screw which I've already removed).
Removal of the tray (or panel on a manual transmission) is required as it clips to two separate panels of the lower dash (one of which you're not removing):


With the two 10mm bolts removed (the second one was behind the top edge of the kickpanel we previously removed), gently pull down on the lower dash (this allows you to get your hand in behind the top edge of the lower dash in order to pull it straight out):


Now pull the left-hand side of the lower dash straight back:


Now pull the right-hand side of the lower dash straight back:


Congratulations, you now get to remove all the plugs from the option switches on your lower dash:


The clip for the plug for the power mirrors is right on top, the rest are in the middle on the left hand side of the plug like the one I'm pointing to here:


In order to fully remove the lower dash and get it out of the way, you'll need to remove the hood release lever and TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitor System) set cable. The screwdriver is on the clip for the hood release and the TPMS set cable requires some finess to get it disconnected. I used the screwdriver under each side of the TPMS set cable retention clip to loosen the clip from the lower dash.
Also, please NOTE: The hood release clip is hard plastic, if you put too much pressure on it when trying to remove the release, it will break (yup, I don't have a retention clip on mine any more):


Here's what it looks like with the lower dash removed:


Here is the electrical panel we're going to be working with. There is one 10mm screw and two 10mm nuts (three retention items total) that hold the panel in place. I'm pointing to the lower right-hand nut, there is also a nut in the upper left corner and the screw is located in the lower left-hand corner (see the metal bracket). You want to remove these three and also a fourth screw on the metal bracket on the left hand side. Trust me, you want that bracket out of your way:


I started by disconnecting the top most connection on the left hand side (middle finger) and removing that wiring harness from the electrical panel (index finger):


Then I removed the three plugs on the right-hand side of the electrical panel as well as removing the harness clip from the panel:


Here is the back of the panel (you'll need to work it around a bit to get it to tip down). The old flasher module is located in the center of the panel and you can see the grey plug that will need to be removed just above it (and another set of wires):


On the right-hand end of the electrical panel, you can see the clip for the new flasher relay. This will slide on from the back of the truck toward the front (as oriented in this picture) and the cable connection on the new flasher faces the front of the truck:


I found it easier to assemble the new parts before installing the new relay:


Here I'm removing the grey cap:


The grey cap has been removed, the new flasher is snapped into position, and the clip to secure the new wiring harness is snapped into the appropriate slot (the old flasher is still present in this picture):


The old flasher was quite stubborn in my truck. I had to remove only 1 non-related plug from the back of the panel and after much wiggling it back and forth, it finally came loose. The old flasher does not have a clip retaining it, it's just in that securely. Here I have removed the old flasher and disconnected the extra plug (lower right) that was in the way:


And here is the finished product:


Overall this mod was totally worth it. I figure it'll only take me 2 years to save on my insurance what the parts cost.

Enjoy!

 

I have had mine for about 5 months now and everything looks fine! Great and easy mod!