RSI Smart Cap

If you don’t plan on removing the MOLLE panel you could permanently adhere it with some Sika Flex.

 

Or get out the MIG

 

I bought a used cap last week that uses a through bolt into a nut that goes into the bedrail system. Any idea what these bolts are supposed to be torqued to? The instructions on RSI's website show a different c-clamp style system and states 4.4 ft-lbs, which seems low.

Also, I'm noticing a lot of gaps around the bed including at the front (behind the cab) on either side and at the tailgate, both along the bed and gate and at the top of the tailgate and the cap door. What's the best method for closing these up?

 

9lbs is what I remember it saying for torque.

This guy did essentially what I did to seal off my bed: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/slow-cooking.786486/

This helps seal up the bottom of the back of your bed:

$50 ESI ROK Block 4.25" Width Tailgate Gap Cover and Ultimate Tailgate Seal with Taper Seal 6ft for Sidewalls

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R8KBV9Y?ie=UTF8

 

Heads up, I reached out to RSI about the torque difference and they said 4.4 is correct and 9 is the old guidance.

From RSI:
Apologies for the confusion the conflicting information is causing. The 4.4ft lbs is the revised torque spec and is the latest information to be followed. The 9 ft lbs is no longer to be used. We are transitioning from printed guides to an online format to allow instant updates to install guides when there are revisions.

 

I-SHEET-NA-TA3-compressed (rsismartcap.com)

 

Is that for the old style bed attachments or the new c-clamps?

 

I have the C-Clamps

 

Finally got some 6ft adventures in stock if anyone is looking.

 

Two days after I bought my used cap, I got a call from Cap-It saying my EVOa was arriving and would be ready for pickup. I was a little worried it would be an argument to get my deposit back, but they refunded me without issue. Apparently they had a 15 person waitlist and there would be no issues moving my previously ordered cap to someone else. Looks like it works out for everyone.

I'm noticing it's quite dark in the bed with the canopy on. I'm wondering if there is a consensus on best options for lighting? I'd like something that could mount to the roof of the cap and be controlled by a switch inside the box. I'm in a 2017, so there are no pre-existing wiring for bed lights like some of the newer models.

 

I used KC cyclones with a studded magnet base (see ad list below) and wired it to a cigarette lighter plug. I then ran power to the bed. I used a bunch of items from Powerwerx.com.

 

I heard this is the only way to go: https://mattgeckoleds.com/shop/ols/products/rsi-smart-cap-led-light-kit-with-bed-mounted-switch

 

Definitely Gecko lights. Super easy install and I love mine.

 

Gecko lights for me as well:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-lights-3rd-gen.391380/page-78#post-28496654

 

Installed my EVOa yesterday. Already had a complement on it while at the gas station today.
24 hr thoughts: It might be my imagination but it looks like the truck has a more level look or maybe even a real slight squat to it. I would rather have a rake. Anyone else notice that and if so, what did you do?
2nd thought was when I pulled up to the gas station and realized that I might not be able to pull up with the pumps on the passenger side and bring the hose over the bed of the truck. I thought about giving it a try but the pumps were real busy and I just didn't want to look foolish trying and failing. I'll try it when the pumps are empty.

 

Thought number one... if you're on factory leafs, yeah, you're probably squatted.

Thought number two... pull up on the proper side and don't drag gas hoses across your truck. I never understand why people do this...

 

Um... hate to be the one to tell you this, but you already do.

 

Well, since the drivers side of the pumps are usually have a line of about 3-4 deep ( usually equal to a 5-10 minute wait) and the passenger side is usually has pumps that are 1 deep or open (3 minute wait at most), I would think that bringing the fuel hose over the bed of the truck was far from foolish - you can do that without touching the bed of the truck with the hose. Why wait in line longer than you need too? My line of thought was pulling up on the passenger side and not having the hose long enough to go over the Smartcap, then having to go back in line for a drivers side pump.

It was also originally posted as more a humorous thing than serious.

drive safe, enjoy life

 

It's not your imagination, I'm going through this as well. What are the "best" options here to eliminate the sag, AAL or a new pack? Personally, I don't haul heavy gear regularly so I'd be looking for something that would support another 200 lbs over the weight of the cap (400# total). My typical level of off-roading is the beach and mild trails. Currently running the factory TRD lift with 5100s.

 

1) You wait in line for gas pumps?
2) Pull up to the pump from the other direction and it's magically on the driver's side.