Power Steering Leak??

The tq spec guide in the sticky section.... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

That is the same post. I found it with google.

I had some trouble getting the dust cover on. It's sort of on...

I was test driving it today. Seems to be working OK. Have not tried highway speeds yet.

 

Well - I don't have an inspection sticker yet. Its more my fault.

I was testing the front roller bearing. Works great. So I hit a bump kinda hard as a test. After that something was rattling.

So I took the front left tire off - and the sort of on dust cover had fallen off. I needed to reshaped it a bit, and then I was finally able to get it on right. But something was still rattling...

The new led fog lamps showed up. Installed them both. Fog light problem solved. Super EZ to do.

I put the truck up on ramps. The rattle was not coming from the front left tire. I found the problem with the exhaust. One of the heat shields was just sitting there. I don't know why it didn't fall off. I checked the others. They were all lose with no way to tighten them. I tore them all off. After than - no more rattle.

How important are heat shields?

 

Toyota put those heat shields on for a reason. Usually it’s to prevent something from burning if it gets too hot. I may be overly cautious, but I’d leave them on as Toyota intended.

 

Yeah - I didn't want to hear that but was already thinking it. I guess with some washers under the nuts I can get them reattached. Unfortunately I cut and mangled the third one. I may have to source a replacement for that.

 

Dollars to donuts the heat shield mount holes rusted through under the factory nuts. Replace the factory nuts with stainless nuts and stainless fender washers for a couple bucks and then don't think about them for ten more years.

Edit: As for replacement for your mangled one, pick up a piece of aluminum sheet, use the old one as a template.

 

Hey man, is the part you're referring to in your post this one attached?? Mine started leaking today and leaked all fluid.

 

Check RockAuto. They have aftermarket hoses available. It was only like $80 for mine.

 

I am looking at replacing as many of the P/S lines as I can
the rubber is dry, old, and brittle
I do see a slow leak, and have read it's because the connection loses it's seal, and technically can be re-sealed by R&R. Loosen, slide off, put back on, with clamp.
But, I think replacement would be ideal. And I'd hope such a thing to be cheap.

It is and it isn't. RockAuto should be.
But, for decent brand like Gates, one return hose alone is $70.
The rest of them are $22-$50, from brands I have never heard of.

Does anyone have success with these? Or when you go to replace, are you all going for reputable brands like Gates?

Actually, now that I look closer, maybe this narrows it down. As the Gates parts, although pic showing similar or identical look
claims they only fit X-runner.
The two that show fitting "Base" are Sunsong and FVP. I feel like FVP would be better than Sunsong.
Then again, it's just a rubber (low pressure?) hose, and metal pipe, so new any brand is likely better than original old.


edit: found posts saying Sunsong is good, often rebranded, and OEM supplier to brands for number of things.
So it's probably fine.
Might start with return hose now as it's easy, and hardline pressure hose later if it's found to leak, as it's likely more of a PITA to replace.

 

When I redid my entire p/s loop I ditched the OEM style hardlines and went with properly rated hose. There's nothing magic about the hardline except it makes installation slightly faster on the assembly line. It was significantly less expensive and doesn't rust. Same deal with the trans cooler lines - just more junctions to fail and metal to rust through again.

 

While I wouldn't call it "magic", that extra loop in the return line is intended as a cooling mechanism. I don't know if omitting that cooling loop is going to cause a problem or not, but I'd personally be loathe to run a return line of straight rubber as a permanent solution.

 

The radiative cooling from the small section of metal line is not significant, nor does it represent an additional loop.

If your environment or driving habits are auch that you're worried about power steering cooling, later Tacomas have a P/S cooler, which one could source and adapt, or add an aftermarket cooler.

 

I'll recant my power steering line replacement story in the hopes that someone down the line might find it valuable.

Like the O.P., I live in the Northeast (VT, NH, MA) where we get horrible rust and it's a constant battle.

My truck is a 2008 4cyl 5spd 4wd with ~270k miles on it.

So as it's an old truck with a lot of miles, I am frequently checking fluids and am sensitive to changes in how the vehicle drives. The P/S fluid is always at a good level.

Out of the blue I start getting a rough feeling in the steering and sure enough, when I check the P/S level, it's quite low. I fill it up and throw some stop leak in to buy myself some time.

Very quickly it goes from topping off to giant puddles on the ground and I'm forced to deal with it properly.

I pull the skid plate off the front and see that the lines are rusty and wet. I can't find any clear "hole", but when I pour some fluid into the reservoir, it is clearly seeping out of both lines when I squeeze the rubber parts.

I order the $80 Rockauto part and set about replacement.

Note that I did NOT have to jack up the truck at all - I was (at over 6' tall and over 200lbs) able to do the whole thing lying on the ground.

Tips:
- When fittings (like the Pressure line to rack) rust - they generally rust such that the fitting seizes to the line. Don't be shy - cut the line. I used a hand-held, battery powered Dremel tool with a metal cutting blade and cut the pressure line from the top (meaning, open the hood, looking down). There was more than enough room to safely cut using my beefy Dremel. Use a magnet if you're worried about metal shavings getting into the rack.
- The mounting bolts (12mm) were waaaaaaay tougher than I would have expected. I was able to hit the frame mounted one from the top with an impact and it came right out. The other one, mounted to the rack is a whole different story. Take extreme care with that one not to round off the bolt - hit it with PB Blaster and take your time. If you absolutely need to you can get a torch on it from underneath without removing extra pieces. I was able to use the Dremel to cut the old bracket off to get the hoses out which opened up a lot more room to work.
There is no good way to get an impact or drill on that bolt without pulling the whole rack out - which is definitely not a small job.
- The Pressure line (17mm) at the rack was no trouble at all to get off once the line was cut and I could get several wrenches on it after I cut out the old rusted P/S lines. The best angle I found was looking through the frame near the tire and reaching around the sway bar... so feet towards the passenger side.
- Good tools to ensure you have - 12mm sockets, extensions, impact wrench (I used my DeWalt 20V). A good set of needle-nose pliers (for the hose clamps). 17mm wrenches - a long one is helpful for getting leverage on the fitting, but a stubby 17mm will be a great help in that tight space. I did not have one, but wish I did.
- Getting the fitting on the new line was a PITA as noted earlier in this thread. You can reach the fitting with your hand, even with the new hoses in place. They went in like the old ones came out, from the bottom. Loosely set the new hoses in place and get the pressure fitting threaded in FIRST!! This may take some time. Be careful not to cross-thread the fitting... start it by hand. You'll know it's threading correctly when you can spin it EASILY with a wrench. It will take a number of turns before you should feel any appreciable resistance right before you snug it up.

 

My point was only that it's not "only to facilitate factory installation". That extra "half-loop" - whatever you want to call the extra length of metal line in the return is there for a reason - that reason is cooling. Whether you need that cooling or not... that's definitely a subjective matter.

No doubt - if I were on the trail and needed to run a straight rubber hose for the return line - I would - and without hesitation.

 

Mine is leaking exactly from where you said. Probably been leaking for some time, it's really gunky.