Let's see those Alu-cab setups

Questions for some of you Alu-Cab Canopy Cab owners.

I am currently trying to locate an access cab with a 6' bed, but a dealer has a double cab with 5' bed coming configured the way I am looking for.

For those of you with either length Alu-Cab, do you have any regrets or upside to the configuration you have? Meaning if you have a 5' bed configuration, had it been an option, would have preferred the 6' option? Reason?

I don't have kids and looking to travel, and it just seems I would get more benefit with the longer bed model with the smaller access cab, but looking for feedback from those who own one.

Also have questions about suspension. I am looking for a small lift (likely 2" or so) what has worked well or not so much? Especially interested in the rear end.

I am looking to stay on the lighter, more minimalistic as far as build out goes...

Appreciate any insight or feedback!

Thanks!

 

Pretty similar to me it seems:

DEFINITELY get the long, 6', bed, no questions about it. You will regret a 5' bed. I have a DCLB, and the Trail Limo length has not inhibited my ability to follow DCSB's through tough-er trails (The Maze in Canyonlands being the most extreme thus far).

This is what I have, and I routinely travel with friends that have GFC's on DCSB's, and the available space in theirs seems drastically smaller for some reason.

That extra foot of bed, especially since it is the full bed width at the bottom (due to wheel well) at the cab, holds so many important systems, before I even get into the space that a DCSB has. I also have enough room to still sit two people (you have to enjoy being snuggled up together) inside of the camper, on the floor.

I too went minimalistic, and as light weight as I could (all custom storage inside of the camper), but I am probably the wrong guy to ask about suspension, as I went pretty far with my setup. Custom tuned shocks, custom leafs (Alcan, the only way to go IMHO), frame modifications, rear end bracing (AG HH's), etc.

My truck is just ten days away from being a 4-wheeled house for two, but check out my build thread in my signature if you want some ideas.

 

Thanks for the info! That is just the type of feedback I was looking for!

I have already spent some time looking through your thread and will revisit again!

 

@Buck Naked
I had a 2008 DCSB with an AT Summit on it and this year went to a 2023 DCLB Alu-Cab Canopy Camper for the extra foot in the camper. It is less than 6ft above bed rail height i.e. the bottom of the lower CC area due to the Alu-Cab one size fits many with fit kits, camper actually ends a few inches before the tacoma front bed rail and a filler plate fills in the void. It also shortens the front overhang by a foot which has several advantages (less leverage and thus vibration when rock crawling, extra foot of space for a rack on the cab. The Dual Cab does provide a lot of storage if you build out the rear seat area for storage, storage that is ideally placed for weight carrying. I considered an Access cab for reasons you are thinking, but do not regret the DualCab.

I would strongly suggest running your new stock truck empty of gear with a full tank of fuel and no passengers over a CAT scale with axles over different scales to see where you start weight wise and again after the Alu-Cab is added and of course in the same state. It is valuable info for $13 a weighing. If one is going to build out a camper, all the space you can get is vital. If one builds out the rear at all, one will need a heavy version of leafs. I have Dobinson's version, would need to look. You will not be able to get away with stock and likely should address the suspension before installing the Alu-Cab possible. If I were doing it again, I would go with Alcan custom leafs also.

If you are going to go 33" tires or bigger, Tinyrigco @dlo13 has access to rear wheel mount for the rear door which slightly offsets from center which allows for more clearance when the door is open. I would prefer that to the Alu-Cab mount. Tinyrigco is in Southern CA but is a world of info from videos to the best ordering process I saw. From your bio I couldn't tell were you are located.

There is only one accessory that needs serious consideration, the table mounted under the overhang. You will be loosing the talegate; that table and chair will no longer exists. It is also the only accessory that is dmn close to impossible to add after the CC is installed. All other accessories are user install friendly if user is mechanical and willing to buy a few tools. There are tons of youtube vids on various installs of accessories.

Things to mod on the truck before CC install should include sealing under the bed rails, consider moving the fin antenna (XM signal pick up will depend on what direction the truck is facing and not worth having XM without moving the antenna and must be done prior to install), rear camera relocation (camera is in the tailgate and will no longer exist), and removal of rear view mirror after the install.

 

To continue on with what Wile wrote:

Definitely get the table, and get it installed on the underside of the overhang before mounting the CC to your truck. I was able to successfully install the table slide onto my CC after it was on the truck, but it was hard, and having rock climber hand strength and long arms was definitely helpful, maybe even a necessity.

I didn't move my fin antenna, and my radio is almost useless now. I do not mind this, as I don't listen to the radio ever.

Replace your rear view mirror with a rear view camera. You definitely want to be able to see out of the rear of your truck, your side mirrors aren't enough.

I ran stock suspension for two months while I was waiting for my aftermarket suspension to be ready. I just had the CC and a few small things inside, way less than GVWR. The truck was maybe 1/4" above the rear bumps. It rode ok, but I was glad when I could install the aftermarket stuff.

If you can, go DCLB for sure over the ACLB. Wile is right, the inside of the cab is a great place to store the truly heavy stuff (tools primarily) in an excellent location.

He is also correct about the head wall of the CC being a couple inches from the head wall of the bed, with the filler plate installed to cover the gap. Plan out your storage correctly and use the space under the CC head wall, like I did with my press-fit water tank.

One disadvantage of the LB's over the DCSB is the front mount for the composite bed to the frame. It is a lot taller on the LB's, and has failed on one guy already. The DCSB has a much more stout mount in that location, but the overhang is more considerable. I removed the possibility of failure of that front mount on my DCLB by installing AG rear shock relocation towers, which get welded to the frame and then bolted through the wheel well. If you aren't going to use your truck that often you can skip this. But if you are going to use it routinely, travel internationally, or push it offroad, then definitely work something like this into your build.

 

Installed myself, no regrets, love it. Planning to put an Ikamper Mini soon!

 

Clean! How was the install? I'm planning on ordering one and installing it myself

 

how was the wiring?

 

Does any know the torque specs for the Contour? I looked through the instructions on the website but couldn’t find anything.

 

Sorry, I don't, but I tip I can offer if you haven't used in the past is this product or something like it:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/permatex-bolt-mark-indicator-paste-21262

helps you see if the bolts have moved/lost their torque. Pretty easy to check in the canopy and gives good peace of mind if you are carrying load or about to go off-road, etc.

you can get it a lot of places online, but I sent the TSC link since I was able to get it in the store.

 

If you can, test drive both. For me, the DCSB won out. I can roll with a few passengers and also have some extra secure, climate controlled area for my needs. If I was going LB, I’d choose AC. The long bed might be nice for a super simple option to rack out in the back, but the DCLB makes it just a bit tight for all the time you’re not using it. Turning radius is a bit larger on DCLB too. It might not be a factor for where you live, but it’s something to consider in day to day driving and your parking options. Might be tight in garages.

I could sleep in the back in a pinch, but I try to go super simple and opt for the hammock or ground tent over RTT’s and what not.

It might be with traveling to get that AC you want.

 

Great looking taco.

It may not matter much to you due to your vehicle being lifted, but your Contour, like mine, shipped with the wrong struts in the back. This only lets the rear hatch up a little more than level. If you look at their website, or other photos of vehicle's on here, you will see what I am talking about. I had my Contour on before I threw the lift on and I could see me smashing my head on the rear hatch at the shortened open height. Now that it's lifted, it may not matter much. But they shipped a bunch out with the shorter struts in the rear. I let MULE know and showed them Alu-Cab's own pics to illustrate what I was talking about. They drop shipped me the new struts. They are easy to swap out.

 

@MR E30 could you post up some pics. It sounds like we have similar interests in trails and I do get a bit concerned about all the forces that go through the truck and bed.

 

Sure. Here is the best that I currently have:

The Archive Garage Rear Shock Relocation Tower, mid-install:

Rear Towers plus Misc. by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The top of the tower has two holes that you put 1/2" bolts through, which bolts through the top of the wheel well

Bolts through the top:

More Work by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Fully welded in:

Rear Towers plus Misc. by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I don't have a picture of the OEM front mount, but go to post #1485 in the thread linked below to see the failure I mentioned:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/driving-a-tacoma-around-the-world.585792/page-75

I doubt this is a concern for most/many, but both Andy and I live in our Tacomas, so our trucks get a lot more use (I am assuming) than many others. However, I would always recommend the AG shock tower install if you have the ability to do so. Great piece of mind.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Happy to help/share.

 

Does anyone with a contour canopy have a picture of their rear hatch and how high off of the tailgate it is? Or measurements? The instructions say 5mm which seams incredibly close to me. That would be less then 1/4”.

 

I'm not sure if this helps you, but here is at least something to work with. It's definitely more than 5mm. The weather strip still makes solid contact though.

 

That’s pretty much exactly how mine ended up. Thank you!

 

you running any RTT on this?

 

Yep! And a 270 awning. Absolutely no issues. The only thing that I has to do was fab some longer tent mounting brackets but it wasn't hard. Just some 1x0.25x24in steel from Lowes cut into 4 sections, drilled holes for the screws, and then painted them

 

About to pull the trigger on the Khaya, prefer the build over the canopy as well as the easy removal. I’m just terrified of all the weight, possible issues later down the road & such. Can anyone speak to first hand experience with the weight and how it handles on a 3rd gen double 4x4 cab Tacoma. I want to get it but something about the weight and the passes over in Colorado turn me away from it! Thanks everyone!