TRD Supercharger only making 1psi of boost?! Help needed!

My experience is with turbos and not superchargers, but the concept is the same. There iss always some way to bleed off excess pressure from the boost mechanism to keep the pressures at the desired levels and there is usually a diaphragm to sense that pressure that suffers from age. First place to look on low boost pressure issue is almost always the overflow mechanism (wastegate or blow off valve on turbo applications). If the blower is working and there is a leak at the TB, you should be able to feel the air rushing out. First guess is that a hose may be not connected or connected to the wrong port OR the issue is coincidental

 

Let’s fix the exhaust leak.

 

Also make sure you keep all the stock Y. You will need that come smog time. But revert the FPR until you can get it tuned it will not run well.

 

A lot of good suggestions in this thread, however I wouldn't do ANYTHING until you fix the exhaust leak and clear the codes. You have a known issue, so it makes sense to fix that before trying to diagnose further. My .02

 

I ordered a new set of the URD collector crush gaskets designed for their Y pipe yesterday, hopefully they show up this week.

I will also hook the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose back up to the intake.. The Supercharger Tips & Tricks thread should have a notation next to that "simple and free" mod saying a tune is required.

I also plan on removing and inspecting the gasket on both the MAF and throttle body to make sure nothing was pinched or messed up when I had them off for cleaning.

If I still have high fuel trims after I get the new exhaust collector gaskets installed, I will reinstall the old/factory o2 sensors to see if that fixes the LTFT..


Thank you for all of the responses and help from everyone so far, I really appreciate it!

 

Sure thing! keep on posting so we can get you in the thread. Just FYI its a great thread and have had some shit people pop in on short notice so that's likely why there is a limitation to it.

 

I doubt a massive exhaust leak at the inlet of the ypipe will cause the 1psi boost problem. But I guess it's better to check if there is any exhaust restrictions. You've done recent exhaust work... maybe some crap came apart internally.

I would check for vacuum leaks. Smoke test with someone feathering the throttle.

There was a guy who said there was a throttle body reset. I didn't believe it until I saw the actual procedure and apparently it fixed the problem for him. Let me try to find

 

If you can find it, that would be awesome!

I have seen a few mentions of a reset for it, but cant seem to find the actual procedure on how to do it.. I figured they may have been referring to disconnecting the battery to "reset" the ECU perhaps..

 

Nope... it wasn't the pull Neg terminal...wait X amount of minutes...reattach. method

 

I found what I was thinking about but i guessbit was a tps reset.. Not sure if it applies to your situation.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/20565872

 

Thanks! I think it is worth a shot! I used an old toothbrush to hold the butterfly all the way open while I cleaned the TB with the wife's toothbrush (jk ). Maybe I threw something out of wack..

 

You should be fine. I just held it open with my finger or rag.

 

Did you calibrate your boost gauge? Many boost gauges require calibration to ambient atmospheric pressure.

 

A little (successful) update:

I returned the FPR vacuum hose to the intake, so that it is hooked up like stock.

I verified that all of my vacuum lines were correctly hooked up, which they were. However, I crawled up on to the engine bay so I could get a closer look at the bypass valve in action, to make sure that the actuator arm was moving freely and noticed that there was some sort of wire harness running right next to the actuator arm of the bypass valve, which could have been interfering with the movement of the arm. I went ahead and zip tied the harness out of the way for peace of mind.

I then added a vacuum T to the supercharger port where my boost gauge is hooked up to and connected my MityVac gauge so I could verify the accuracy of my boost gauge.

I let the truck warm up and took her for a spin. First thing I noticed was the truck felt like it had much more power then before, sweet! It also turns out out that my boost gauge perfectly displays vacuum values, but will only display 1-2psi of boost, while my MityVac gauge went up to ~6psi during a pull...

So now I am not sure if the lack of power felt on vacation was all in my head (even though the wife made the comment that the truck seemed slower than normal), or if the wiring harness was actually interfering with the movement of the actuator arm on the bypass valve causing the valve to remain partially open during a pull..


I am still waiting on the new exhaust collector gaskets from URD, which I am hoping clears up my high LTFT values, if not, I am guessing that I mess up the MAF while cleaning it? I am also talking to Speedhut Customer Support on trying to diagnose my faulty boost gauge...


Otherwise, I think I might be out of the woods! Unfortunately my battery took a shit and needs to be replaced, which I will do this weekend. (It's always something!)


Thank you to everyone that contributed to this thread trying to help me figure this out, I sincerely appreciate your time!

 

I almost forgot!

While on vacation, my parents had some issues with their truck, so my brother hooked up his Ram 1500 to pull their boat, and I hooked up my truck to pull his single JetSki. After pulling the Ski out of the water, I threw a P0705 code. I looked it up here, and while it sounds pretty bad, I was not experiencing any of the problems everyone else seems to have when that code pops.

The truck started fine, seemed to be shifting fine, the shifter lever was not tight, and the PRNDL on the dash lit up correctly as I moved the lever.. If there wasn't a code, I wouldn't have noticed anything was wrong at all (besides my lack of boost at the time).

After pulling the jetski down to the lake for 2 days, I unhooked and headed home. When I got home I checked the codes, and the P0705 was gone.. Sweet!

Fast forward to my test drive I just described above. I noticed that taking off from a stop, it was double shifting.. Going from second gear into third almost immediately.. I check my codes and the only ones displaying are the pending P0420 and P0430 codes from the exhaust leak.


Any suggestions? I have been planning on doing a valvebody upgrade because the shifts are too soft for my liking, but not sure if I should throw more modifications at the truck while if the trans potentially has an issue..


If I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all!

Thanks in advance once again!