Key won't turn....Truck won't start

Question for those who had this problem or know more than I do.......

Recently bought a parts truck with a rusted out frame (MT 4x4 ). When I picked up the truck the previous owner said the ignition is finicky and it either starts on the first try or the 30th try (said it was even like this when he bought it). He got it started after playing with it for a while so that I could drive it onto the trailer.

Needless to say when I got home and now that I have it in my driveway I can't get it to start for the life of me no matter how much I try.

I just want to get it started so that I can move it around my driveway when I need to.

When I turn the key it has power as the door chimes.....it just won't turn to the ACC or On position to allow me to start the truck. I also don't get any cluster lights coming on.

There is some slop in the lock cylinder as you can see in the video below. I'm guessing the key is not aligning properly within the cylinder. This is where I'm searching for ideas on how to rectify this?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Kv-PtkJf9Ykpo2VY77_X468cqeoBwsOg/view?usp=sharing

 

cant read your googledrive file.....access denied?

 

Fixed

 

You know you can pop that switch off the back of that ignition....just two screws holding it...and start it with a screw driver.........unless its the electric switch itself thats failed and binding.......if thats the case....you can use any switch off a toyota, or a dozen other makes and plug in and start it with a flat blade......but you'd have to unlock the shifter....and steering column some way.....


If I was a betting man.....50/50 chance this is it...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wont-start-turn-signal-buzz.818952/#post-29373330

Even if it isnt.....will not kill you to replace something that can leave you stranded....

If it is the cylinder....your lucky.....most fail in the run position.....then cant turn the truck off without pulling the pos cable off the battery....

and then you cant get the cylinder to release and slide out to swap it unless you can get it in the acc position...
then you have to drill that key cylinder out.....to get it to release out of the column treee....
bunch of movies and threads on that nitemare....

might want to think twice about that......about forcing it into run position....
and then wont go off.....then your screwed........drill time.......ugh




Lesson learned on the electric switch part.....I now keep an extra generic one I bought off ebay in the glove box....watch my movie and that link....and you'll see ....what a weak ass design they are to start with...


it keeps the fuses and the couple extra relays in the glove box company....

 

dad had to replace all the locks on tacoma with a new key & cylinder set from toyota, because it was getting to a point where it would take 1-3 minutes every time he wanted to drive for it to take the key.

that was only like 10-12 years old at that point IIRC


lots of jiggling, beating, & shaking the key while it was in the cylinder

 

Yeah the cylinder should be replaced every 150K....if not you're just gambling with time and fate.........but everybody...everbody neglects the most important part that hides behind it...
the switch....

That switch design ....is like a bad joke......watch my movie........didnt make that movie for me....I''m already a believer.....

AGAIN...its no big deal........if your into walking.......or praying for help....or made of money...

and its usally nite time......when lightning strikes.........
.......or at least it was in my case.....


My best advice is...if you dont listen to my above advice......dont keep anything expensive in that truck.......
.....when you have to abandon it in some obscure place...

Sometimes that failing switch can blow the AM2 fuse just going down the road when you give it a little gas.....then you've got coast overdrive.....
put in another 30a fuse....and it just blows couple blocks later...

then you have the abandon on the side of the road party time....

and its usually at nite.......the tow companies are just waiting for you....
well most of them are closed by then........and then the really good sweet ones are left....

so yeah ....if you blow off my advice......might want to keep at least couple/three hundred $ in your wallet....
they dont take checks or carry a zon credit card machine...

wonder how I know all this......ugh...





bunch will say......'mine is just working fine after xxxx miles'.....
'I'm counting on that Toyota's 'Magic Dust' '....
....yeah buddy.......some of you here will remember this thread when it happens...


doubt anybody's listening to me.....its like shouting into the wilderness....
crazy O' coot....

 

try wiggling the steering wheel, sometimes wheel lock can lock the key out of the on position as well

 

Looks to be that the lock cylinder has just gone bad for whatever reason.

I can turn the key enough to unlock the steering wheel, but not all the way to the ACC position which means I won't be able to simply pop it out and replace without drilling out the pin.

Guess it is what it is. The truck will just remain where it is in my driveway. Luckily it's just may parts truck so I'm not really worried about it other than having to push it around my driveway when I want to move it.

 

When you buy anything with a key lock.....you always go have copies made from that master key....

and then go put that master up.....hang it on a nail with all the other masters.

Reason is..... the key edge is what wears down the most over thousands of cycles.....
so eventually it can not contact/push the pins back enough to twist that cylinder..


and just as bad....

and if you mess with higher end commercial deadbolt cylinders....after awhile ....those shavings off the key can actually make that cylinder harder and harder to operate...pins start sticking and wont retrack from the metal dust clogging/impeding movement ...you have to start jiggling it......and then eventually that dont work...

residential deadbolts are so poor quality and naturally loose......most don't succumb to that...


The commercial ones you can free those pins up by lubricating with graphite or lithium grease..

But with the ignition switch being under the cylinder....graphite/grease would eventually drain down and damage/short those electric contacts in the switch below...

So ole' Scotty says use a little wd-40 sparingly ....and let dry for a little while before using..
if your lucky it'll give it a little more time...


Long time ago I had a dodge.....with the key so worn.....you could pull the key out without turning it off...


But really there is no excuse for improper maint.....the oem/original key cylinder....ignition switch....fuel pump should be tossed after 150K....
and then the replacements if generic should be done every 100K after that...

you know a bunch of you out there are even over 200K on original ball joints......
no way in hell I'm gonna roll all those dice....