How much should I demand from a dealer who screwed up?

See what they offer u for the trade and purchase if you don't like the offer walk away with the deposit . Simple . No point of trying to fight for small amount of money not worth the time .

 

If that’s accurate that dealer fed you a ton of BS. The 1 series didn’t even hit US shores until midway through the 2008 model year.

Sounds like you were doing performance center delivery in Spatanburg, NC. That’s where they make the Z4 and some of their SUVs. The first gen 1s were all made in Leipzig.

As a point of comparison, I took delivery of a 135 in August 2008. That delivery was supposed to happen in July, but my original car was dropped off a truck at port in NJ. My dealership apologized for the extended wait, found me a car in identical spec, minus HK sound, and gave me 6k off the price for the inconvenience.

 

Dealerships are called Stealerships around here for a reason.

I have never bought a new car - always used, sometimes from a used lot, sometimes private.
Find a good one and pay market rate.

Glad you can take the ribbing around here, many can't!

 

You still got that 1 series?

I have a 2011 128I that I bought from an Air Force pilot outta Goldsboro.
He took Euro delivery of it and had it for 3 years while he was in England.
It was in immaculate shape when I bought it at 30K and still is now at 103K - love that car!

Sorry you got jerked around.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!!!

Yup - all of them were made in Leipzig!
Love my 128I - it is almost as fun as my E36 328IS was [I miss that car to this day]

 

>

^THIS

Milk their error for all it's worth - I say! ... (This would be $250 - $450 Maaaaybe) but see where it goes. Propose some freebies, purchase your accessories at cost, etc. Then buy your truck. - OR go elsewhere.

 

This is not a reasonable internet response. I expect someone to defecate on the showroom floor, backhand the service manager, and conceive children with the spouses and/or daughters of the finance manager, parts counter, and VP of Toyota corporate.

 

Ohh man this probably isn't the right place for this, but the E8x 1 series is literally the perfect car.

My 135 was my DD for close to 15 years and I still smile every time I start it, even after 150k miles. Also helps that I have every E9x M3 part that's an easy bolt on mounted to it including the steering rack.

It tripods at autox. Good times.

 

couple high speed runs out in calverton/grumman ey?

 

I don't do turbos.
It is a personal preference.

I love my 128i
It is close to perfect but it is a bit sensitive and has too many sensors/nanny shit/no dipstick/too much plastic in the engine compartment..

The E36 was a tank, could take a bit more 'abuse' and hold up better; it was also built to be maintained much easier [eg intake filter, brake pad sensors, etc . . . ]


When I re/did the suspension, I replaced most everything I could with the E9x M3 parts - but not the steering rack, ya got me there!

The E82 was a parts car - they built it using the E9x parts they already mfr/had on hand for those 3 series models.

 

I would ask for the deal you two agreed on initially. If they kept their end of the bargain,,, I would keep mine,, you know what men do?

 

Just get your deposit back and maybe try to buy one that's on the lot? I don't know when they are going to stop production of the 23's but it cant be much longer.

 

When you ordered your vehicle did you talk to anyone in the finance dept? You should have been given some paperwork with the truck VIN number being manufactured with the options. The paperwork should also have included any discounts, trade-ins, and down payments. Then a $500 non-refundable payment in case you back out of the deal. The dealership or any bank will need some form of paperwork for loan approval. I don’t think Toyota is going to build and hold a vehicle by word of mouth. Nor are they going to build and hold a vehicle for someone who can’t afford it.

 

Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat? Never.

Non taken

The E8x rips no matter the motor. Especially when you tackle the shortcomings caused by the factory suspension being designed for runflats.

Ohh but the rack really is a big change. You notice it. Install is also super easy since everything just bolts in to the 1 series steering shaft. M3 rack even uses the same banjo bolts as the standard 1 series.

 

as long as this is pronounced "Buck fiddy"

 

demand a full tank of gas, a bed mat, and a extra cup holder.

 

Now you’re pushing the limit!

 

And trades don't appreciate

 

Nice catch! Was there over the summer running RC boats. Grew up 10 minutes away

 

Finance department doesn't order vehicles, a manager from the sales department does

No vin would be on any paperwork as vins are assigned at the factory as they will generate the MSO; selling dealer cannot populate a fake vin on paperwork

Non-refundable wouldn't fly

No loan approval would take place as they only last so long and would expire (rates change with economy, not to mention credit worthiness can change from time of order to time of delivery)

Toyota will build if dealership has allocation for ordering; they don't care who buys it as long as it's a sale

 

I love the BMW I6 NA engine [+ MT]
Been driving one for the past 20 years - went from an M52 to the N52
Rock solid, never had an issue on any of them

Those runflats were shit - got rid of them ASAP
I run Conti DWS and eat up rears in 15K miles.

The OEM suspension went at 70K - you could feel the power loss [to the ground] because it was so bunk.
Got the Bilstein B12 suspension [bilstein/eibach] and replaced the shock mounts, control arms, tie rods and everything rubber/plastic in there OTW with the M3 stuff + beefy front sway bar. Feels solid AF.
I don't track it, just street driving = so much fun.

I'll have to remember about the steering rack next time I overhaul it, sounds like an easy upgrade!