Long Travel BS Thread

Dang that's narrower than the currie or spidertrax flange-flange. 10.1" ring gear, and despite how it looks, the pinion is offset to the driver side by 0.5"

 

Idk man. Chromoly is a pretty cool buzzword. Strong + Light = best but expensive.

 

There is a very slight gain of strength using annealed 4130. Otherwise it does weld nicer than mild. But unless you’re heat treating you’re not going to see much of a gain. Weight is the same as well. And again, unless heat treating you really can’t use a thinner material than mild.

The data sheets say it all.

 

Called them and they never actually made it. Bummer.

 

Ok need some advice, and or whatever,
I have a lt double cab 2gen, jd fab rear SUA and built right 3.25 front lt. I am having issues with keeping the truck from wandering all over the place above 50. Its never really been an issue before.
What changed. JD fab SUA install, tires were rubbing the bypasses, a lot. Added 1.5 spacers no rubbing offroading and was pretty good on road.
Took 3 trips to the des for tuning. last trip I hit something pretty hard enough to punch a hole into my inner fender from my high misalignment.
Before the steering was soft and would slightly wander around but not hard to keep on the road.


Front bearings checked out good.
New Rack
New steering transfer shafts and rag joint shaft, as well as new inner and new outer tie rods
New LCA uniballs
UCA and LCA bushings were replaced a few months ago.
cam bolts were replaced a few months ago.
Tires rotated.
Air pressure changed, lower made it just more softer to response.

50 and above the truck still feels loosy goosy and the rear feels like it want to swap ends.

With that said my front is 1.75 inches wider compared to my rear width. before it was 3.25 and 2.25 before the 1.5inch spacers were added.

I was told by a few folks as well as video i happened to watch that stated a 2-3 inch with 2 inch wider front being optimal is whats required to keep the truck stable at speed.

Sorry for the novel so to speak I am looking for ideas as to what is going on and how to fix it as it was in the shop for over a week and still is not right.

A video stating the width difference : https://youtu.be/9TPJxBhQe8k?si=MDXpaTFo0twlf5jE&t=176

 

A little confused after reading this, but I’d double check all your bushings and uniballs and heims are fresh.
Also what are your alignment specs ?
Lastly I’d check the lower control arm frame tabs and UCA / coilover tower.
I don’t think you said if they have any gussets or not.
The LCA mounts on the frame side will legit tear off. Ask me how I know. I had a crack in one that was almost the whole length of the oem weld. It was hard to see that it had failed until it rained and I noticed a bit of rust.
This is in addition to the alignment cam pieces that are commonly upgraded, which could be flat if they’re not supported.

 

towers are gusseted and I have a crossbar as well.
all of the bushings, uniballs, bearings and steering were check and or replaced.

Hmm, on the cam tabs will look again. i have the chaos cam tab upgrade, but OEM tabs to the frame, I know there is some toe in alignment wise not sure about the rest.

 

Yah, that is a bummer
I was already to go 40s

 

I see nothing about checking the SUA. My bet is you’ve got loose u-bolts and a possibly broken centering pin.

 

Rear is newish, 3 trips on it, all the attaching bolts were checked for tightness, as well as u bolts and pivots bolts. However the pack bolts/center pin was not checked. thank you, that will be added to my list of things to further check.

 

U bolts should be checked several times in the first few hundred miles. 99% of the time they do loosen up as the packs settle in. If they loosen, you run a great risk of shearing a pin off.

Not saying that’s what happened, but if it feels like the rear is trying to come around on you, it’s probably the rear.

 

or the caster is set plain wrong

 

It states in the JDFab SUA INstall Instructions at the very bottom to Re-Torqued the U Bolts after 150 Miles. I was reminded to re-torqued the U-Bolts when I was at Deaver picking up the Leaf Springs and Hardware kit

 

Caster 100% is not going to make it feel like the rear is trying to come around. Some wander, sure. But the way he’s describing it is it’s not road safe. That isn’t caster.

 

@SoCaltaco65 where are you located? if anywhere in the SGV or the immediate vicinity, I can possibly swing by and help you check things out

 

I appreciate that Tom, I am in San Diego, its been at a local shop for a week plus, they did the rack, tie rods, uniball replacements and the checks and alignments. its time for me to put my eyes on it and see if I can find anything.

 

Sure not 100% but if the front is set up kinda high, and soft, with no bars, 0 or - caster will absolutely make the front end extremely twitchy at speed just off of center and any small bump will push the front end into that zone.

The LCA cam and lower tabs definitely seem like the place to investigate... if the big hit punched a hole in the inner fender as described, and the cam tabs are just gusseted and he isn't running a cam eliminator kit of some type, then almost certainly the alignment on (at least) that side is now out of whack lol

When I sheared a center pin it showed up as dog walking especially under accel, not crazy instability at speed, but that's just my experience.

 

Posted a cpl lil vids recently on build page and no love WTF I thought I was building a boxer dropper one the same cpl guys… I see you guys


Maybe I need to LS swap, link it and put it on 40s lol.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-dirt-yota-lt-build.396918/page-18


Working nights bored as shit right now watch dudes lay pipe lol

 

Twitchy yes, but this isn't the alignment, it literally wanders all over the road when above 50, like you have to give steering wheel input left and right to try and maintain your lane, and not a small amount. and when going around a corner it feels like the rear-end is trying to trade position with the front end.
when you accelerate there is no affect at all.

and yes I bopped a hole in the inner drivers fender, pass side shows signs of a hit but not punctured:

 

Definitely gonna want to check rear toe. Even if you didn’t break a pin, it could still be bent enough. Check u bolt torque at full droop with SUA so the bolts don’t have any load on them.