ECGS install advice

As far as I can tell its not pinched.
I mean, it can’t be pinched too much.
It leaks FROM the Breather. If it was pinched, I don’t think fluid would make it up to the breather to leak?

I even made a post about it when it started

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-diff-leaking-gear-oil-from-the-breather.744067/

It leaked here

 

Great post you should be fine, I had a 4x4 shop do mine unfortunately It took three attempts to fix the leak they first said the seal was bad then they said it was wrong then the third time the shop manager fixed it and it has been great!

 

The best video I've seen regarding replacing this is this one. The video is clear and understandable and the method he uses is really simple and fast.:

https://youtu.be/PnWEe19fWis

 

Make sure you order a new Toyota seal, I had this done about a year ago and it was the great no noise and it tightens up that axle movement.

 

I agree.

Some will say a new seal isn’t required. While it may not be required, it’s good practice to replace it.

 

I live by the general rule that rubber washers, gaskets, and seals are consumable and get replaced every time. But each to their own.

-J

 

recently did ECGS bushing
have done it before successfully

but have a front end noise that may or may not be related. Naturally, I’m second guessing myself.

tempted to pull everything apart to have a look. But also no because that’s a lot of work and I trust myself.

that being said, is their install tool foolproof? Instructions state drive seal to flush. I did that, until the sound gave off a characteristic change letting you know it’s done and flush.

on top of that, it appears the diameter of the tool is wider so that it would do exactly that. Drive the narrower bushing until it is flush and then basically stop being able to go no more. Making it basically not possible to put it too deep when using their tool.

just trying to confirm this.

otherwise re:noise diag, going to flip the front flange of the halfshaft 90deg see if that changes anything, and double tech torque on some bolts in the area to make sure there’s no resonant frequency noise.

 

The old seal wasn't damaged when I changed mine out so I left it in. (40k miles)
I ordered a new seal along with bushing so I do have it if/when needed.

 

I think it'll only go in so far anyway before it hits the lip inside the diff.
Mine wasn't quite as far back as yours but it was mostly flush and couldn't go back anymore.
As was mentioned you can hear the sound change, or the feel on the install tool, when it's bottomed.

 

Exact same thing happened to me. Lucas, heavier weight, ok until it got cold out. I recall reading this somewhere else as well that the heavier weight lube had more of a habit of doing this.

 

it really is probably the best video. You notice how this is a third generation and free of rust, making the project look easy!

 

Yes, the tool is foolproof.
The lip on the tool will bottom out on the differential.

 

got it. I wonder if anyone knows what happens if you hypothetically hammer the tool too hard. I wouldn’t say I did.

like what is that second ring around the ECGS? Moveable or non movable? I have an extra LSD I’ll look at and see if I can see.

basically in high gear immediately off throttle for a second or two, I get kind of a whine noise
Almost like what you hear all the time in a race or rally car with straight cut gears
And a bit of vibration

working on diagnosing it
Could be normal. Could be something else.
I’m going to start with flipping my front propshaft connection 90 degrees on the witness pattern to the diff flange and re evaluate. As well as fully torque to spec the front diff mounting bolts at the brackets to the truck end. As I got them gutentight but not actual torqued to spec (not much room in there) just to be roadworthy.

hopefully it’s just that. If it’s loose enough to create a resonant frequency through the truck especially with solid mounts.

if there ends up being a problem with the front diff (just had it regeared) not the end of the world. Rear diff main drive unit would be worse.

once all that’s done to rule it out of the equation might swing by the regear guy and ask what he thinks and if it might have anything to do with front diff. Besides regear it’s otherwise stock open diff unit with unknown history. So while bearings, ring, pinion were replaced, there’s still stuff inside that’s original.

 

The outer ring with the lip on, is harder than the inner ring.
It's basically there for you to "hammer" / tap" on it, and to add rigidity to the bushing.
The inner ring is bronze impregnated IIRC.

I suppose you "could" hammer on it too hard.
But the only way to do that is if the bushing was misaligned and getting stuck while going in.
You'd likely know it, as that lip is fairly thin, and you see it peening out.

The noise you describe sounds like gear wine to me.
In some cases, whine can be normal. But not typically in passenger automobile.

I don't think your noise is being caused by the ECGS Bushing. I'd say you got it in just fine.
If the axle slid into the differential easy, you are fine.

When I say "slid in", I mean it went into the bushing easy.
Not that the axle "locked in" easy. Sometimes it can take a bit of persuasion to get the axle in. (Even more so if you haven't done it a few times)
Lube up the axle, slide it in and out a couple time to get the seal and bushing lubed.
I then "just" get the axle started in, and SHOVE IT IN. The momentum of the axle usually "pops" the C-clip in

 

yes, did seal per TW advice and FSM depth specs
Lucas SAE 85w140 gear oil so far no leaks

axle shoved in straight with the circlip gap at the bottom to try and help it squeeze to pop in with some grease to hold it there

need to figure out how to break the front diff in, if it all, and see if that quiets the noise
Plan is to change gear oil in it at 500mi regardless and maybe more after. To see if there’s any issues inside and get any initial break in contaminated fluid out. Was only $8 a bottle. At 2 bottles capacity, seems worth it.

the noise seems to only happen at higher speeds. From what I understand engagement of 4By must be done under a certain speed but can be driven faster.

idk why some folks call it a limited use part (front diff) such as wheeling.
As I’ve seen people use it at high speed (by that I mean highway up to 6th gear) in adverse conditions

when I lived in CO, during winter with snow and ice on the road, driving back and forth to work in 4HI was common. I did it without issue and so did any co workers with a 4x4.

yes it was noticeable to be in 4HI (previous original diff, different one) but didn’t exhibit what I’m experiencing currently.
Oh well, to be continued. Nothing broke yet. I guess if something does then I’ll know for sure.
At least if the front diff breaks or has issues the truck would still be driveable while getting that sorted out. Vs if the rear diff had an issue (doesn’t seem to be)