Transmission Problems Neverending

Hello all,

I (perhaps stupidly) had researched transmission flushes vs. drain and fills, etc. many years ago and decided that I wanted to do a specific transmission service done by a BG authorized dealer - where the equipment they use just hooks to your transmission lines and they use your transmission pump to circulate the fluid instead of doing a forceful flush that can cause problems. Someone from TW recommended a local mom and pop shop that's been in business for a long time and has great reviews and I went to them.

I got the first one done at around 90,000 miles - and at that time, BG warrantied the transmission for $2,000 if I kept up with the service every 30,000 miles. Well, after the first time doing this, I had this problem: Rotational Squeal on Loaded Acceleration.

It was suspected to be something with the work that was done on the driveline, but never quite figured it out. 30,000 miles later, I got another flush by the same shop because I wanted to maintain the warranty coverage. The noise persisted under the certain conditions, but shifting was still perfect.

Another 30,000 miles later - I got my third flush. This time, I had transmission slippage pretty much right away. I turned back around, they kept it for another 2 hours, said it was low on fluid, and then everything was working fine. However, now - the noise was a lot more subtle and a lot more intermittent which pretty much solidified my belief in the the fact that it was the transmission making that noise.

Que to Wednesday of this week, I was at about 180,000 miles and due for the next 30,000 mile service to maintain that original $2,000 warranty. This time, I reminded them of the issue and of the specific fluid check procedure. I got the truck back and the noise was gone! Finally - peace after 90,000 miles. Everything shifted great...until...I had to do a quick stop later that evening.

After performing quick stops and then accelerating again, I feel like the truck downshifted into neutral and then when I press on the gas, the RPMs increase until the transmission decides to shift back into gear. I also thought maybe it was something with the rear differential as I got those fluids serviced too (along with transfer case and front differential). I've noticed that I have no issues if I drive smoothly, but if I brake hard and then accelerate or if I accelerate semi-aggressively through a turn, or if I stop semi-quickly and put it in reverse, I get the delay and the slippage. If I do everything smoothly (drive like a Grandma), nothing out of the ordinary happens.

This morning, I hopped under the vehicle and I noticed the check plug has no fluid around it under the transmission - so my guess is they never did the fluid check procedure - and now I'm wondering if they overfilled it a little bit vs. underfilled it like previous times. I obviously need to take it back, but part of me is thinking of going there and asking for a quart of fluid and then going home and just fucking checking it myself. Or checking it myself in front of their shop (however I'd have to wait a while for the transmission to cool down).

On that note - do you know if the Scangauge temp (TF1) - supposedly the pan fluid temperature can be used instead of jumping the OBD ports and putting the truck into trans check mode? Any feedback or thoughts on what I should do? Or check the rear differential fluid level as well? Last time they put in 75w-140 and this time they put in

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 with LS additive (which I obviously don't need - but supposedly LS additive doesn't hurt when you don't need it).

I know the saying goes "If you want something done right, just do it yourself," but I wanted them to keep doing the transmission stuff to maintain that warranty and just decided to have them do the other fluids so I didn't have to do it (live at an apartment) and I've been super busy lately.

 

Sorry for your problems but when you have a bunch of different people messing with your tranny you’re just asking for problems. I have done the check 2 ways, fusion app and jumping the 2 pins in the obd. Either way works. It’s an individual choice, some people just can’t do the obd pin jumping method and are better off with the scan guage. You should be able to check if they filled it properly by just opening the check bolt on level ground.
If none comes out, they probably did not fill it correctly. But that would be the first thing you should check.

 

Sounds like it's low on fluid.
You could probably use the ScanGauge pan temp and be fine.
Some guys even use a cheap hand held laser temp gun. Once the pan is 100-105 degrees, then check it.

what I would not do, Is go back to the shop you've been going to.
Apparently, they have no idea what they are doing.
I don't care if they warranty $2,000 worth of "whatever".
Do you want them "fixing" what they broke in the first place?

Not me.

 

I just went out and slightly loosened the hex check plug and I could see fluid starting to want to come out. Quickly tightened it back up. This is with it below temperature. So that makes me think that it may be overfilled since the fluid expands when hotter.

Grabbing a bucket and some cardboard and I'm going to video record the fluid coming out it when it's at temperature and plug it at a slow trickle.

 

Interested to know if any comes out at all.
Sounds like the fluid is low.

Remember, the truck needs to RUNNING to check the fluid.

 

Yes, you’re thinking right now, drive it around for 10 min./ leave it idling, put the bucket under it and drain for a slight trickle and then plug it. Let us know how much came out.

 

Yup - fluid is low. I had the truck running.

Nevermind - it must just have been fluid that was on the bolt or something.

Here are some screenshots from two videos I took. I checked at about 105 and I checked at 115. No fluid came out. Time to call the shop, ask for a quart, and tell them I'm fucking doing it myself.

 

I figured as much.
But now you know.

I know the feeling. I hate working on stuff myself. Especially after I paid SOMEONE ELSE to do it.
But there comes a point, when "you have to do it yourself".

 

There's always a teaspoon or so of fluid in the tube so there will always be a bit of fluid run out when you pull the check plug even if it's low.

 

That is why it is a good idea to put more in then you think you need.
That way you have plenty of fluid to run out and slow to a "trickle".

Good point though, some guys may see "some fluid" and think it is fine.
Like you said, "some" is in the tube.
I want to see it "pour out" and then trickle.


I know you know this.....
My reply is more intended for OP.

 

I know - I am a handy person and can logically interpret instructions (although a slow trickle is still vague as f*** - Toyota engineers really screwed up on that one). I just would *assume* that a mom and pop shop that's been in business for over 30 years, was recommended by a guy on TW, has good reviews, and does stuff like this all the time would do a better job than I would. I must have some shitty luck or they just don't care to pay attention to details.

At any rate, I'm getting the quart this evening and I'll probably check the transmission tomorrow. I am debating about seeing if I can pick up a new fill plug and gasket (90341-18059 and 90301-15004) from the local Toyota dealer if they have it in stock as the fill plug appears to have slightly rounded edges and I may not want to re-use it.

 

And...hopefully getting the right fluid level resolves this and I don't actually have problems with the transmission

 

I'd rather have a little too much, than not enough.
Once the stream gets to about the size of a pencil lead or just a bit smaller. Stick the bolt back in an call it good.
Not the entire pencil, just the black lead part.

As long as it doesn't make it to a "drip", you'll be fine.
But like I said, I prefer too much, than not enough.

 

Once you do enough of them you kinda know what to look for.
We are dealing with this on nearly every automatic transmission made now, dipsticks are a thing of the past. It leads to alot of under/overfilled transmissions because many techs don't look up the instructions, they just pull the plug and if fluid runs out it must be full.

 

I know it's full, because I didn't check it.
Or, It must be full, because it "runs".

Good enough for me......

 

I've been doing more reading and I do think that for my transmission I need to check it at 115 - 130 F. I have the A750F transmission, not the A340 E/F or the AC60 E/F.

 

Between 97-115'

 

A750 check temp was updated to 95-115F per TSB 0129-08.

 

When she hits yella check that fella.

 

Whoops lol. Thank you