TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Interesting details that I did not catch when I installed mine. If you want to purchase original bearings I believe these are them,
https://rodavictoriausa.com/producto/nsk-alternator-japan-ball-bearing-fits-mercedes-benz-6303-17-x-47-x-14-6303-2rs/

They are alternator bearings made for higher heat with different seals. I plan on ordering some so I can rebuild my original set of bearings that I will keep as a backup. I am still running the scol bearings with new everything else. If I snap a stud any time soon then I will be inclined to think the pulleys are an issue but I don’t think I am going to be having any stud issues anymore.

 

Done for the day. Hopefully I can enjoy it for the summer without anything breaking. “Since I was in there”, I installed a new 200 amp alternator, overkill for what I need but still an improvement. Gates fleet runner belts for both accessories and supercharger. RB VVT solenoids, a new SCOL smooth #2 pulley, and a new Dayco 89007 3” smooth pulley.
Take-off pulleys I’m keeping as spares.

Regarding the SCOL pulley that I found doesn’t line up correctly, I refuse to install it and will be contacting SCOL regarding a return/refund. However, being the pessimist that I am, I’m betting I’ll get beat on it. I also bought a SCOL lower 3” ribbed pulley, but I don’t have access to a proper drill to hone it out, and I refuse to possibly compromise the @Athlaos stud by sanding it down, so I’ll just sit on that one for a while.

On a side note (and not to flame anyone, this is just a hypothesis): I’ll take odds that @Murphinator ‘s belt was thrown due to the misalignment of the pulleys, and the belt got jammed up in the process and sent a shock load to the stud that instantly snapped it. It’s just a theory, I don’t mean to offend anyone, call me an ass if I’m totally wrong.

On that note, I’m going to finish installing the fan and the battery back into the truck and call it a day. Enjoy the holiday weekend everyone, and stay safe

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Is it additional pully beside s/c pully ?
What is the purpose for that pully?

 

Belt wrap mod - keep the belt from slipping - usually reserved for smaller diameter supercharger drive pulley sizes.

 

Nice.... is it tensioner pully ?

Where I can purchase it from?

Do I need to replace the belt I use right now?
Thanks

 

Read page 1 in it’s entirety and go back to read all of my posts starting Nov 30, 2023 and you’ll find your answers.

 

I found it your post about pully wrap.... Thanks

 

@BlueT@com@4×4
1)it lessens the slack/deflection in the belt
2) billdacat8 researched and DIYed it. One of the members machines them iirc. If not, I have a couple done up already by Gary from Design Craft Fab.
3) You would only use it if you went down in pulley size or changed belt size due to the other series available and non-compliant sizes. You can help the belt and pulley deflection get in range.

 

Thank you James... I will keep in mind and I will reach you when I do change smaller pulley right now I use urd 2.8 I don't know if I really need wrap pully yet.

 

@BlueT@com@4×4
With a 2.8, not at all. I'm on a 2.7 with a Roush tensioner and the stock belt. When I went to a pulley wrap, it was too tight with little to no deflection. You don't want a case where it's on the verge of unnecessary stress since the tensioner should be doing the job.

 

Btw, I never had slip when I had a 2.7 on. I went to a 2.55 and it slipped like hell.
All in the past now, and all is good. The 2.55 is great for what I want out of the truck, and the @BillDaCat8 wrap plus Rousch tensioner was the perfect solution. Not only more top boost, but way better drivability and more boost and power throughout the range, which is exactly what I was looking for.

 

Warning!! Rant and fowl language.

On Wednesday my truck started to misfire and run like shit as I was heading to work. I turned around and limped it home. It felt like multiple misfires and injection cut out. my AFR gauge was pinned at full lean. In my head the whole way home was (fuk, fuk, fuk). I have been having a cold start rattle until oil pressure builds up ever since I put the cams, upgraded spring and new phasers in. All day on Wednesday I'm thinking the worst. Timing jumped, internal engine damage, camshaft failure.
After work I load up what diag tools I think I will need in my back pack to carry home on the the bike. I have a coworker bring me a few others just incase. I start to diagnose the issue, scan tool reads out misfire on cyl5. I'm thinking to myself, WTF! It ran that bad with 5 good cylinders. I swap the coil from cyl 5 to 3 and plug from cyl 5 to 2. Start up the truck and rev it, its missing, but not setting a code or light off. I use the scan tool to check the misfire counter for each cylinder. Low and behold! CYLINDER 4 is now misfiring. ??????????? How in the fuck is this! Ok, ok, ok, lets think. I'm thinking bank one goes cyl 1,2,3 and bank 2 goes cyl 4,5,6. I google the cylinder layout for the engine. Fuck me! So now lets go over where I actually moved the coil and plug. I ACTUALLY moved the coil from cyl 4 to 5 and plug from cyl 4 to 2. Luckily the coil was bad and I was able to figure out my mistake. Today at work I order up a factory coil and I have an extra set of Denso IKH-22 plugs in the garage. I installed all new plugs and put the new coil on cyl 6 (it seemed like the hardest one to get to). The truck runs good in the driveway. Tomorrow will be the test drive. The coil that failed was a Delphi and it only lasted two years. I put a new set in when I rebuilt the engine. When I had spare time at work I make and laminated a cheat sheet to keep on the beer fridge in the garage so I don't make that mistake again. Pics to be added

EDIT: plugs had about 30k on them. 20k after the engine rebuild and about 10k before.

 

I know that "fukfukfuk" feeling when I had the RIPP coilpacks go bad and had to limp home. I guess it's Denso or bust with these.

 

What is the recommend mileage for the replacement of the IKH-22 plugs? 30K?

 

Yes. You can obviously go more and press your luck. If you want more, use their VKH22 which is rated for 100k.

 

More "stu stu stu" and less "fuk fuk fuk".

 

I'm curious to know more about what sanding would be required on the stud to install the pulley?

 

What gas are you using? Running octane boosters?

 

On the SCOL pulley, it's less than a hair too small on the diameter of your strengthened studs. More.of a SCOL problem seeing as very few are running their pulleys.

 

Ugh!