Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

I wouldn't add extra at that point. I'd just be sure I was at the correct temperature to check it...

 

I didn't bother measuring what came out, but If anything, it was overfilled.

 

what makes you think it was overfilled?

 

It almost overflowed a 5+ quart pan when I drained it and the final refill didn't take nearly that much.

 

Did you do the temperature check and remove the over flow nut and put it back when it was just a trickle?? If not, you need to!!! Another thread on draining/refilling found here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/

 

Here’s the update:

Drained the fluid and caught it to send it off to Blackstone; dropped the pan to Ohm out the SLU solenoid, it is indeed bad (reading 6.1 Ohms instead of 5-5.6). Wiring looks good and bottom of the valve body looks good. However there are some non metallic flakes in the bottom of the pan. Doesn’t look like clutch material to me but perhaps something that’s come out of the new torque converter? Have you ever seen flakes like that?

once the new solenoid arrives from Toyota I’ll button the pan back up and refill with Valvoline Maxlife and Lubeguard platinum and work on starting the ATF cooler setup. But my boss and I were thinking it might be smart to drop the valve body and take it apart to clean it out? What is your take on it?

 

Looks like aluminum to me .
If the flakes were steel , they would stuck to your magnets .
I agree that dropping the valve body will help .
Have a Sonnax zip kit ready to go

 

thats what I'll do then, any tips on getting the connectors out of the solenoids? Had a difficult time getting the SLU connector off

Secondly what do you think about the flake looking things in the bottom left? Haven't touched them yet to see what they're made out of

 

That's a lot of metal in your pan .
I am thinking rebuild if you plan to keep it .

 

Did you have any luck? The tab on the male part doesn't seem to depress so I guess I'll try to pry the female part open farther.

 

@gearcruncher my research for a p0756 code is solenoid S2 should be replaced, Toyota part number 35230-60010. Am I tracking?

 

Ok I searched but haven't found anything about doing a drain and fill out of the cooler line into a container and there is alot of air burping and splattering out in the container even tho my transmission is filled to the same amount or more about 1.5 quart at a time. The original problem I have with the trans is when it's cold it's not engaging in D until warmed up about a minute after starting. When it's fully warmed up it's fine shifts normal but does seem to run hot about 180 to 210. Anybody have an idea of the air issue? DTC is P2714

 

Hey figured you’d be the man to ask, I have a pretty serious crack in my bell housing next to the slave cylinder on my 4x4 manual w59 for 3rz. A picture will be attached so you can see. I’m not sure what could have caused it to crack which has me believing that something went wrong with the gearing or bearings. Do you think id be fine just replacing the bell housing or is the trans done?

 

Were you able to resolve this? I am having the same problem with my 2006 Prerunner (175K mi). There is now always a delay in shifting to Drive when the engine is cold (Reverse is okay). It is only when starting cold. When warmed up or when keeping my foot on the brake and revving up to around 2000 RPM, the transmission will eventually "jump" into drive, and on rare occasions it does so violently. The transmission will otherwise shift fine while driving.

I am getting code “P2714 - SLT Solenoid performance or stuck off.” The fluid level was a little low when I first checked it (no trickle when checked at temp). I added some WS ATF fluid, but no change. I replaced the solenoid and filter, but I first checked the Ohms of both the old and new solenoid before sealing everything up. Both were in spec.

There were no metal flakes or debris of any kind around the magnets. It is the original fluid since I fell for the "sealed transmission with lifetime fluid" gimmick and have only heard negative things about flushing the tranny after this many miles. The fluid was dark reddish brown, but otherwise seemed okay. I put back what I drained and I topped off the fluid with an additional quart of genuine Toyota WS fluid along with 4 ounces of Lubegard Platinum. I checked the fluid level using the jumper method until there was a pretty fast trickle. The problem continues and I frequently get the same code after clearing it.

Does anyone have any advice? Maybe add a little more Lubegard or ATF to slightly overfill? I have heard some people in my situation have had success replacing an equal amount of WS ATF with Amsoil Severe Gear

$28 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90, but I have not tried that. I was thinking of taking it to the dealer, but I am not impressed with their service and there is a $150 diagnostic fee with most issues. I prefer to avoid it. Any advice from anyone that has overcome this issue?

 

You seem to be the guru on this forum and there seem to be a couple more. You have the 750 on lock though, so I chose to ask you. You mentioned that many things could cause the Flex Lock/TQ converter surge. I recently found out that what I thought was a bad motor mount, was a failed engine mount bracket weld at the driver side mount. The motor rocks pretty good and this is going to be addressed ASAP (best friend is a boilermaker and I trust no one else to make the weld) he will be in town soon. Could this contribute to those issues (flex lock and TQ shudder? I was chasing some vibration I thought would be driveline (which these trucks are famous for), and stopped until I make the weld, as chasing a clunk is pointless when you know you have a busted mount. I should mention this is an 05 Tacoma 4.0 4wd with 277k on what I assume is the original tranny. I had no clue of when the tranny fluid was last changed, had some fairly rough shifts, no gear slipping, and the start of what I thought could potentially be tq shudder or driveline misalignment, so I decided "let's drop the pan, jack the truck up, and go ahead and get some peace at mind despite the old school guys saying leave it." The fluid was pretty bad, not horrible, but bad. I got about 4.5 quarts out and replaced it with valvoline max life and lube guard with the intention of continual drain and fills until I have perfect fluid and on the last fill adding another Lube guard shudder fix and platinum.

So here is what followed. I noticed the truck shifted a hell of a lot smoother. The transmission seemed happier for a couple of days. Then, I got a nasty shudder and it happened on rare occasion, but was nasty and concerning. I should note that I deep cleaned the engine with degreaser to prepare for the mount weld (gotta be a good friend to my welder) and threw P0301. Ahhh no big deal, I got some water in the coil pack. Cleaned that out and replaced the coil pack with one I knew was good and had on hand and assumed this was the culprit (as tq shudder and misfire can feel the same) thought I found my issue...Nope, misfire gone, shudder super intermittent and no doubt wildly exaggerated by the busted motor mount bracket...My true question is this...Could the busted mount bracket cause or extremely exaggerate what I believe is Flex Lock? As my shudder is aggressive but rarely happens and always between 40-50mph and this did not occur until the fluid change took place. I made damn sure the fluid temp was correct and that i got the toyota trickle right. I'm definitely scared to drive the truck more than I need to. I'm a 100% disabled Marine Vet, so I have funds, but those funds are limited with a family and mortgage, bills, ect... So, I have to do things fairly cheaply and on my own and a truck payment grosses me out. Man I wish I could just call you lol

 

@gearcruncher what are your thoughts on this combined with the zipkit instead of the ratiotek kit?

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4452-line-pressure-booster-kit