Clutch Masters hydro bearing failure!

it’s honestly not that bad of a job like 8hr on a weekend max

I regret not extending the breather atop the bellhousing with it out last time and replacing the likely clogged valve as I don’t know how easy it is to get to with the trans in

 

Well....



Made it to 40k.
Didn't fully go out, which I don't quite understand. There was enough of a seal to be able to change gears and make it home.
Not sure where to go from here.

 

tilton I guess

I wonder if it contaminates the disc, and to brakleen it while in there

 

I would give it a strong no that anything is making it to the disk. The bearing would block any fluid squirting out of the seal if you had a major failure. The pressure plate would then be next in line to block any fluid. Once you loose pressure and that initial sploosh is out the rest is gonna run out the bottom of the CM housing and then your bell housing.

 

That’s how it starts and if you keep driving it in a couple days the petal is going to stick to the floor and you’re gonna have to start it in gear and power shift it home. Don’t ask me how I know.

 

Good to know, I won't push it then. I might top off with DOT 3 and try to make it to a shop.

I don't want to go back to stock for the reasons that got us here in the first place, but saw that some people are having issues with the Tilton piston rotating and wearing down the seal as well. No great option it seems.

 

since when
CM has reports of failure. Never seen reports of failure with the Tilton kit created to address such with the CM.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...stem-shenanigans.698464/page-33#post-29892089

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...stem-shenanigans.698464/page-28#post-29208734

 

oh wow…
Thanks

I guess if that is the case that leaves two options
A bigger bearing maybe quill kit like URD etc
(My quill is not destroyed)

or swapping to a whole trans that has a replaceable quill to hopefully solve this problem
Like 3rd gen RC62F I believe
and Probably every other Toyota manual ever made including something like the trans in a ROW LC79 LC…

which depending on ratios may not even be ideally compatible with the regear ratio setups many people have done by now such as 4.56 4.88 etc (I have 4.88 and stock MT)

which, option 1 would be cheaper than option 2
As a whole trans is expensive

I bought an entire manual Audi swap kit for $400 from a junkyard
But junkyards down the street quoted me fucking $1200 for 2 diffs…

i have pulled my trans twice now…
Maybe third next time I can have my eyes closed…
If I can just find my long 3/8” trans extension

fact of the matter unfortunately I think Tilton is a race part
And racers with race cars tend to have crews that pull the engine back out like every weekend if not more
So for them they would not care. Versus the rest of us not trying to do that.

 

Or option 3. Buy the $5 O Ring rebuilt it and cross your fingers.

 

I've heard the quill is sort of a half measure, but can't remember exactly where. The trans rebuild...oof...I might rather go OEM and work on it every few years. At least OEM doesn't suddenly go out and leave you stranded suddenly.

I will not be putting another Clutch Masters HRB back in.

 

Sample size for failure is much greater with the CM setup than the tilton. I’m going on 50k miles with the tilton and no issues yet.

 

Does anyone know if someone has attempted or been successful with installing an OEM hydro bearing from a 10-15 V6 Camaro? I know the bell housings are obviously different but the Camaro share the same Ay-6 transmission that are in our Tacoma's

 

URD had a kit form the t-56 trans to work in the ra60 tacoma trans. They no longer have it. There is a thread on here for a piece it together yourself kit with tilton parts. Read through this.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/6mt-throwout-bearing-and-clutch-system-shenanigans.698464/

 

not sure what AY6 is. Doesn’t read like RA60F.

nor low range tcase.

 

AY6 is the Aissin designation for the transmission. RA60 is the Toyota designation. They were also used in the old Pontiac Solstice, may another vehicle too.

 

Personally trying to avoid the Tilton as some have already said people have been reporting they also fail, I live up north in Fort McMurray Alberta temps can get as low as -50 deg c so I'm sure just relying on a seal to keep the piston from spinning is not ideal in these kinds of temps. But it's looking like I'm all out of options at this point

 

I mean it’s that or you could potentially try the oversized URD kit and see if it works or not

worst case scenario you need to pull the trans yet again and get good at doing it blindfolded same boat as many of us with this that bearing or the other

I had my CM down to 0F in CO but never experienced subzero

 

I don't think the URD oversized quill will be my solution, I think the previous owner of my truck installed the URD Fix-U bracket and has cut the quill off, not sure how much is left/needed to install it.

 

aren’t you currently running the McLeod hydro bearing? Similar mechanism as the tilton. How has that been holding up in the colder temps?