Front end rebuild - Tone Ring Question

Hey guys. I am rebuilding my front end and ran into an issue I cant find any info on.
1st I'll tell you the details of the truck.
99 SR5 V6 4x4 with 6 lug axles and factory ABS. Manual hubs and transfer case. Auto trans.
The truck has 275K on the odo, and in dire need of front end rebuild.
I have purchased most parts needed, most OEM and a few poly bushings.
I pulled the hubs last night to discover a previous owner butchered the driver side hub.
I cant seem to find any info on needed spanner wrenches or replacement parts.
I also cant find info on how to separate the hub from the steering knuckle.
A little help here would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

 

This is the correct socket for the hub nut:
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds&=undefined&new_store_set=true

 

That brass bushing inside the hub is not cheap. They are available but try to preserve it. Those hub nuts get torqued to 203 foot pounds. I removed mine with an impact gun. That butchered one will be interesting to remove. The roll pins on the socket I used would fall out of the head, and they also bent. I replaced them with beefier roll pins from harbor freight.
If the socket pons line up into the butchered nut holes hammer the socket in and hit it with a 1/2” impact gun. Looks like the holes in the nut are deep enough.

 

watch this video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj-2IzO9RFk

 

Great info and video!! Thank you.
I have purchased the correct wrench and OEM locknut.
The tone ring is a little beat up, so I may get a new one of those as well.

 

Looks like you need new lower ball joints too, oem ball joints are the way to go, take a look at this thread about ball joint bolts. It’s a lot of info but important: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-wanted-about-lower-ball-joint-bolts.772506/

 

I'd go ahead and pony up and replace both lower ball joints. read the thread that was provided for you. It has quite a bit of useful information about the different ball joint bolts available and which ones can be re-torqued.Good Luck

 

Thank you .I have the socket ordered.

 

It looks like there is a thin needle bearing under the brass bushing. Is this something that should be replaced?

 

I have new upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, rack and pinion, end links, bearings and seals, brake plates. All OEM. I have Energy Suspension poly for the a-arm bushings, sway bar, and large bushing for the rack and pinion bracket. New Bilstein 4600s all the way around, fronts pre-built with Moog springs.
Today I cleaned the camber/castor nuts so I can reassemble close to aligned.
Once I get the lower A-arms off, I am going to clean and treat the frame with Rust-oleum Rust Reformer.
Also cleaning and painting the a-arms.
Thank you guys for the advise.

 

Well, it seems I have a problem. The cam is seized inside the bushing and I cant get the control arm off. I ordered a used replacement from ebay. Today will be spent getting this thing out.

 

Wow, I just tore apart one that was quite similar. The tone ring was trashed as well. Good luck on the control arms. Heat helps significantly. I can also help with parts if you need any.

This was the rebuild.

 

I got the A-arm off with some heat and a BFH.
Got the lower A-arm bushings out today, and that was a lot of fun!

 

Is there a special spanner for those brass bushings? Will the brass bushing be damaged when pressing the hub out of the bearing? I am pretty sure I'm going to find a shop to press the bearing in and out.

 

The brass bushing will stay on the hub, in the pics it looks usable

 

The bushing is to absorb play and slop as the brass will not damage either the CV or the hub. You can remove and replace the bushings by punching them out from the opposite side of the hub. I agree with @Parkvisitor that the bushings are probably fine. The bushing won’t be damaged when pressing out the hub but whomever does it needs to be careful of damaging the fine threads on the backside of the hub.

 

OK, not messing with the bushing. Taking the knuckles to an auto shop this week to have the hub pressed out. I plan on cleaning and painting the knuckle, then I'll return to the auto shop to have the new bearing installed and hub pressed in. I have new OEM brake plates as well. I post pics when done. Thanks for your advise fellas!! Please keep it coming.

 

I have the A-arms all cleaned up and the old bushings out. Ready to install the polyurethane bushings and ran into a problem.
When i press in the factory bushing sleeve, it expands the bushing enough that there is not enough showing to get the other washer back on.
Do I need to trim the width of the bushing?
I also have one OEM bushing just in case I needed a new bushing sleeve to replace the one that was seized. If I were to use it, Would it would need to be pulled apart before installing? It wont fit if I don't.
I want to use the polyurethane bushings, and return the OEM one if I could...

 

How does the offending bushing measure with the ones that fit? Are they the same measurement?