Dayman's Karate Class- from SAS’ed Taco, bouncer, IFS 4Runner, and now a Jeep!

that seems like a crazy rate... i think the stock FJ sway bar was 39 lb/in if i remember right. I feel like those numbers have to be wrong, but maybe not?

 

It does seem really stiff lol it’s possible the guy emailing me had no idea. I’m 99% sure it’s 1” thick. I need to figure out the math- if the material/geometry is constant, what’s the relationship between bar diameter and spring rate.

 

What is the stock bar length (estimate length including any bends between the “arms” and arm length? I have an excel I can plug it into.

I know my bar is 1” in the center and swells to 1.25” at the ends so I estimate 36” of 1” and tack on 1.1” of “length” for the extra length to go out to 45” width at 1.25” diameter for the math and 18” arms gives me 90lb/in

so my “ 37” “ long bar 18” arms 1” diameter is 90lb/in


so guessing 45” long total between arms it would need like 10” ish arms to have a 200lb rate. 12” would be 160 lb rate

 

I came up with 12” arms and 40” width. These bends up and down and around have to be effecting the rate too I’d think…

 

Yea, I think you can just add it to the length so I would figure 45 ish is probably close.

It may work out well since the mounting width on the axle would be 40 which loosens it up a bit at the tire, mine is mounted at like 48 ish wide on the axle. I would just make sure you make some super stout links because they will be under a lot of pressure

 

Yeah they will be feeling the beans for sure. I’ve got 5/8” heims with all thread connecting them and 1/2” bolts. Mounts/bushings on the axle side might get a little sketchy lol it’s my only hope without reinventing the wheel to make a TK1 fit back there

 

Cadillac alternator upgrade and replacing the blown ABS and alternator disable links (not fun)



didn’t take long to flatten the cam tabs @JTFisherman any recommendations? Still don’t have speedo or odo so I’m lost on a fix for that. Also my gas tank pours out from the top on an incline which is cute, so I’ll be investigating that as well.

 

KPO is the best kit from what I have seen. Mine has been sitting for a long time but I was going to try and weld it today.

their bolts look the best as well. Stover nuts which I love and the bolts are cut down to fit better without having to monkey with the steering rack.

even my tabs arnt that bad, wonder if it is because I can clamp the bolt down on the metal misalignments super hard.

I have never leaked gas to my knowledge but had a guy in a gx who was leaking it bad a few weekends ago, seems like some sort of vapor lock with the charcoal canister in his case but idk with ours being up front.

 

I debated welding a bead behind the tabs while I had everything apart. I regret not doing it lol May cut some square pieces to replace the factory “wing” parts with.

I give up on the speedometer. I think I’ll just get a gps unit that keeps up with the odo as well.

 

Running lean. May be the aftermarket intake? MAF sensor? Got some digging to do

 

Well the two cheapo Vevor air compressors pooped the bed after filling up all four 35’s. That’s what I get for cheaping out. Went with the tried and true two pack of Viair 444c. Should have done that the first go around.

 

Drove my junk to work today after getting an alignment yesterday. Pretty squirrelly on the road- constantly making micro adjustments to steering probably because of all the heims. Little white knuckling for sure. I think the lean code is neutering my power at higher rpm, so I’ve got to dive into that. All in all, not the best, not the worst road experience. I’d rather trailer it for more than an hour drive though.

 

If you got a professional alignment, it probably is t the issue, but when i first set up my front end, it was really squirrelly too. Just did an eyeball alignment to get me to an off road event for the day. When i put the alignment plates on afterwards, i had too much toe in. Not sure what it translates to in degrees besed on how far apart the tape measures were, but i had just under 1/8" toe with the tapes ~24" apart. Drives great now.

 

The alignment feels good to me, it’s got to be the heims in the steering and the lower ball joint conversion making it sticky if that makes sense. It wants to stay ever so slightly one way or the other. I’m thinking once they break in a bit the alignment will hopefully overpower them and it’ll track straight. I dunno, sounds great in my head though haha

 

the issue i was having was that it tracked straight, but any time you started a turn, the truck wanted to go that way, more than what the steering wheel input justified. or if i hit a bump with the left tire, it would push me to the right, and vise versa. similar at all to what you're feeling?

 

I’ve felt similar to that before, but it’s not what I’m feeling this time I don’t think. It does great in turns and doesn’t stumble over itself or anything if that makes sense. It’s like when you try to move a new heim and it’s really stiff and takes a bit to overcome that initial stiffness. Feels just like that in the steering wheel if I clock it back and forth a tiny little bit. A little more toe in might could over power it though?

 

I see, said the blind man....

that makes sense, especially if you're on the stock steering rack still. takes a little more effort as first, but then you jump a little too far once it "breaks free". difference between static and kinetic friction for the enginerds out there.

 

Had a friend with a third gen tacoma have the same issue you are describing on two separate sets of TC lower arms with uniball lbjs. Went back to a ball joint and issue was gone.

could try ball joints but they will probably wear in and be good with some use.

 

I can deal with it a bit since it won’t see a lot of road. Little sketch since the whole family will be in there sometimes lol I really need to figure out this lean code though. I think it’s gutting an already anemic engine. It’s either the air intake or something I messed up with the fuel tank or filter I swapped out I guess. Really wish the ODO would work. Not showing any input on the OBD

 

Took the 4Runner out on its maiden voyage. Nothing too crazy. Forest roads and some side trail crawling. So far so good. Very plush and the steering is getting better on the road so I’m thinking it must be all the new heims wearing in.