3rd gen Locking front hubs?

Keeping this alive...still interested!

 

Still working on the 30 spline stuff. My R&D projects don’t take priority at the machine shop, can’t blame em’.

 

Seems like just that CV shaft increase would be an upgrade.

I was wondering about this because I've always had warn hubs on everything and iirc it was more about the autos actually locking right away.

 

Moving along, one problem that has been encountered is the outer bulbously large CV boot. Full droop and full turn shoves the boot directly into the lower shock mount. Need to work on a solution, smaller boot…?

Here is the most outlandish but super beefy set-up I could come up with… it won’t be for most people, as too many other things will need to be changed and that will add significantly to the cost. Essentially two bearings stacked with 1/2 of each removed. A spacer has to be designed and made to run between both housings, and another to run between each inner bearing race.



Stock bearing spread


Spread w/ stacked housings.

 

Regular bearing…

 

There has to be an easier way. I bet there are JDM crossover parts from the Hilux or LandCruiser series.

Either way, wouldn’t it be easier to just section the CV to get the right length?

 

A good idea, but there is nothing in JDM or the rest of the world that Toyota produces. This is the largest (112mm) everyday joint with a stub that will allow a hub, everything else is the old smaller 90ish mm size with 27 spline.

Shortening the stub would place the splines where the diameter would be too small to run 30 spline, which of course is a large part of doing this swap. It also places us in custom parts territory, not that there won’t be custom parts here, but I prefer to have most of the wear or consumable parts to be off the shelf and available at a minimum from Toyota dealers. The CV and wheel bearing top that list. A properly made and dowel pinned spacer will fill the gap between the hub on the normal bearing, and the wide space bearing won’t need anything.

 

Pretty sure it exists somewhere in JDM. Here is the OEM kit with CVs originally produced by another member. He sold out when COVID hit due to supply issues. My assumption was everything got choked out coming from overseas. The bearing with manual hub is easy. I just don’t know where those CVs and stub shafts came from.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/free-wheel-manual-hubs-conversion.513930/

 

That’s Gen 1 Taco adapted for 2nd and 3rd Gen. All three generations share some critical dimensions in the hubs and bearings that allow not only that swap, but what I have going here. The small CV joint pictured in post #42 above, 90ish mm, it what that swap and the Gen 1 Tacocoma use.

 

I guess I am at a loss then what is trying to be accomplished. The kit is OEM but US Dealers don’t sell 1st Gen stub shafts anymore, nor do they sell manual CVs for 1st Gen. I thought the internal spider inside the outer stub was swapped but I don’t think this is the case given the diameter difference in the casing. Are you trying to do something different than just retrofit 1st Gen manual free wheel setups for 2nd and 3rd gen? I never have been sold on the argument they are weaker shafts given one measurement. Everybody likes to cite on anecdotal story they never were present for and claim they (manual CVs) are weaker.

 

Just people trying to hold on to the past. That’s it. Nothing bad about it, but that’s it.

 

I convert them all the time. I love manual options since they tend to break far less than electronic or vacuum methods. I am not arguing nostalgia. I think there still exist OEM options out there without machining for second and third Gen. I may be wrong, but the link showing the sold out options states OEM and makes no mention of mods. I have worked with that guy in the past and I think he stumbled onto something. He won’t give up any info on them though. I just know that some people think the first Gen manual stuff was weaker due to smaller diameter shaft, that I don’t agree with in real world application.

 

they proven to work and still in use while taking a beating, I take the same approach but stick to era specific. When I did my conversion I went with non add front diff and manual j case transfer case. My truck doesn’t know it’s 4x4 hehehe

 

I’m interested in stronger and longer wearing parts via size increase. 26 and 27 spline shafts w/ 90mm CV joints can and do break, When all said and done my truck will be able to operate in any drive configuration, 2WD, AWD, 4WD. I may even place hubs on the rear axle for easy flat towing. There are plenty of benefits… not to mention this stuff is just plain old fun to figure out.

The manual hub swap using the smaller parts, is it not straight Gen 1 Taco? If you are looking for 90mm parts, I’ll take a quick look through… shouldn’t be difficult to find.

 

Much respect brother. I can’t leave well enough alone mostly. I have had my hands full with Cummins swaps, 4th gen into 3rd gen, multiple wiring custom wiring harness configurations. It is fun to figure out but ain’t really putting my kids through school. I just have to temper myself. It is more medication for me than anything else.

 

I have a 2017 Tacoma access cab 5 speed. I'm trying to figure out how to engage the four-wheel drive low without the front axle engaging. Essentially creating two wheel drive low.

 

not the same as manual hubs but check this out:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lock-stock-and-2wheel-low-3rd-gen-diy-mod.536677/

 

Not the same, but you could still accomplish the same end state with manual hubs.

 

right, but for 2nd/3rd Gen there aren't currently any manual hub options in production

 

Soon…