Sound deadening doors only

I am interested in hearing from people who have done sound deadening on 4th g taco doors only. I saw some videos with people who literally tore all the inside and put the materials allover the roof, floor, back of cabin, pillars etc... of course they reported great results but the cost, effort and time to do all of that was tremendous. I am only interested to hear from those who did all 4 doors only. No roofs, floors etc... in your opinion was it worth it or not? If worth it, what benefits did you experience? Less road noise, better sound from speaker? Etc. What material did you use and where exactly did you apply it. I say this because I saw there is a pre cut kit by soundskin for $329.
https://soundskinsglobal.com/produc...H3IxSLBLhU9sy-_RcOxUkUXMfL8M6_o0I3rbHEWEy7pg0

While chatting with them they also recommended putting the wavy foam on the outer skin.
https://soundskinsglobal.com/produc...LMOOGleGjslzCeF7v3aZLl4p3kF8WZP8aF78ZR77sVxp1

Let me know your experience. I am tempted to do it but not sure of the results and wanted some honest feed back on the doors only.

 

If one of your hopes is that your factory non jbl sound system will sound better, dont think its worth the effort as it won't sound better....
Does it improve road noise, absolutely but dont feel you will really notice, I didn't think wow sounds so much quieter...
You do this if you're going to install a higher-grade sound system with actual amps, that's where you will get the huge sound system benefit....
Your doors will feel more solid if you use the stuff similar to what I & fotofisher, & bobs world used, doors almost close themselves per se, but added weight.
The hybrid stuff is lighter, less dense I guess, just different.
Havent seen anyone in this forum as of yet to just sound deaden for roadhouse improvement in the off-roads, its all been sound system sound quality improvement / upgrade related.
Would be nice here if im wrong.
Its very easy to use a lot of the full sheets whole to do the outside skin, some situations I cut them in 1/2 long-way to fit in the tighter areas.
Inner skin, the sound deadener material the butyl / foil kind, doesnt have to be installed on every inch of the inner door skin to see benefits of sound deadeneing.
50% is fine, nothing wrong with doing it all but overkill from the characteristic of the product.
Also inner skin is more busy & complicated in the topography dept.
That's where the sound-skin hybrid shines in application to the inner skin, but won't get a sound improvement reduction compared to amz basic per the test results...
Sound skin also makes a butyl / foil version…


Carefully read through this.....
hit the various tabs across the top, resonance reduction / price to performance...
Shows AMZ basic is one of the leaders / better ones actually in the db reduction rating & price to performance...
quality stuff, ams doesnt actually make it...

Also deadening the rear cab wall is easiest of them all compared to the doors, no reason not to….

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IS HERE BELOW:

https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/r...-deadening-material-independent-testing-data/

 

Thanks for the detailed response. I think I will try to install amz basics and see what reduction / improvements I can get in terms of road noise. You make the installation difficulty sound to be be about 6 on a scale from 1 to 10.

 

Nothing wrong with cutting smaller pieces when needed, cuts easy with. just kitchen scissors...
Doesnt have to be on every inch of the metal...
The screws that hold the door panel on are easy to find, bob has all the cheats in his pics....
there's a screw behind the rectangle panel behind the door handles.
screws behind the switch bezels.
The one screw that hidden, there's a decretive trim piece on the arm rest....
Get the palm of your hand & give it a had bump forward while holding it as it will fall on the floor...
There's a bolt behind there...
1 single Small bolt to remove the entire door latch assy from the panel, once you get the panel off.
Dont try & mess with the cables, no need.
The panel push pins pop Easly with a quick pull, non need for fancy tools..
I also pulled all the push pins off & put 1 wrap of electrical tape on all of them to tighten-up the fitment,
Saw that on an audio upgrade video somewhere on YouTube, once upon a time.

 

I didn't understand what you mean by putting a wrap of electrical tape on the push pins. Are you basically trying to thicken them? Will they fit and snap in? Or did you mean where the base fits rather than where it snaps.

 

The pushpins have quite a bit of slop where they slide into the actual door panel, to accommodate for variations.
No need for all that slop and the electrical tape well tighten everything up, the door panels were reinstalled without issue afterwards.
When the non-modified pushpins are in the door panel. You can wiggle them around over 1/8”++
Most of them went back into the panel, just pushing on them with my thumbs,
a few were a little harder and I just used a screwdriver to apply a little bit of pressure and they popped in place after the tape was applied.
here:

 

Man I would just get some mat on Amazon for like $30 and cut it myself

 

difficulty is a two, just a bit time-consuming.
I did one door at a time,
As I had no idea how long it was going to take, did not want to gut my entry truck like Bob did, he’s driven!!!!

 

From the link of photos that Bob provided, what is this part the he put the materials on? Initially I thought is is the back of the rear seat but I don't think so. I think is a panel that covers something because I see those push pins but also does look like a door panel, so do you know what that is?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/push-me-in-a-direction-what-would-you-pick.845079/page-6

 

I will likely do one door at a time also. If you make a mistake, how hard is it to pull up?

 

I would not want to pull up large pieces, but if you installed it in an area covering an important hole, or in my situation, I put the door panel back on and found 2 inches of deadener sticking outside of the door panel,
plastic scraper, and a little bit of alcohol afterwards, and issue resolved,
it’s just sticky so it does come off, it’s not like it’s epoxy on

 

It looks like you added some foam strip around the plastic piece.

 

No, all factory.
I carefully just bungeed the panel out of the way, felt there was no reason to pull the cables completely out...
Im a less is more kind of guy, take a few pics of how the cables are orientated during assy,
So you know which cable was on top & which was on the bottom.
Probably doesnt matter much in reality.
You can twist / rotate the latch handle mechanism & have it out of factory orientation if that makes sense.

the back door has just thinnish clear plastic vapor barrier held in place by butyl tape.
Just carefully remove the plastic vapor barrier from the door so you can get in there & install the matting.
No reason to take it all the way off, just let it hand there, its just to get access.
the back door won't be a hard white plastic cover like the front.

 

Just bought both from soundskinz. I have about 36 sq ft of kilmat that I was going to “practice” on my older car but will save those up to do the back of the rearseats on the tacoma

 

There is ABSOLUTELY no need to add tape to address the "slop" in the clips. The float in the clips allows for thermal expansion/ contraction as well as variation in dimensional differences between liner and inner door skin holes. It is wasted effort
Unless you have a clip rattle, it is irrelevant to sound dampening. I work for an OEM and specialize in plastic interior/ exterior appearance parts. That is non-sense, no BS

I do recommend a 2-part sound deadening strategy. Meaning adhesive cushion/foil + a EDPM type secondary soft foam on top to address noise. Line door frame + door liner.
Buying a pre-cut kit is expensive and yields less gains than buying bulk material and shoveling it in every crevice possible. No replacement for custom apply as much as you can in regards to sounds deadening.
I think it is worth defining expectations, are you looking of a quieter cabin? and/or better sounding experience?
I have sound deadened both my 2nd gen Tacoma and Tundra and can say that establishing judgement criteria will define whether it meets expectations.
My Tundra doors are extremely large and heavy, I didn't want to add a ton of weight from deadening material to stress hinges and B-pillar. In result it is not as good as my Tacoma. It was a accepted compromise.

 

I get what you're saying about thermal expansion but personally dont think its as important as youre trying to convey...
Especially for me in San Diego & she's a garage queen.
But good point & others can make their own mind when they see how bad the slop is...
Those door panels are a rattling mess if you actually had a 24, won't take long to know this...
Pumping 1800 watts through the tiny cab won't help matters either & was going to do whatever it takes to avoid frustration & having to go back in...

If you dont have a high-end sound system in the equation, there would be no reason to go to that extreme, but it's a normal practice installers..

 

here's just 1 example, this guy isn't just shade tree hack....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJQyJYl48AI

Yes, he's using tesa tape, which ive got boxes of....
Ford use to give me 1 roll of cloth tape per recall with I just needed 2 feet to wrap a loom....
There isn't any more forgivingness using that vs just electrical.
People have also used butyl tape...
Yes, the electrical will maybe lose some of its size from being compressed, but at this point we're both over thinking here.....

 

Is sound damping really needed on the 4th Gens? I thought Toyota reduced the interior noise on the new Tacomas.

Not shitting on the 4th Gen I'm actually curious about this.

 

Its not a huge issue but some of us, upgrading sound systems so very beneficial when it comes to sound quality improvement..
Then with the jbl system pumping full range sound through the speakers, the door panels rattle a lot...