Replacement of Radiator, Thermostat, Water Pump, VVTi Filters, (but not) Valve Cover Gasket

I have purchased a CSF Radiator, a new water pump, new idler bearings, new VVTI Filter screens, and new valve cover gaskets for my '09 TRD OffRoad with an A750E automatic.

I've been project planning this exercise in preventative maintenance for about a month. I have looked at the FSM, YouTube and through Tacoma World. Frankly, because there is so much information, and because I am combining several projects into one, my brain and eyes are getting sketchy. I have, therefore, typed the entire project up into a step-by-step checklist. I would like to get another pair of eyes to verify my work before I dive in.

If any of you have done any of these projects, I'd like your feedback on whether I have missed something, or if the torque specs are wrong (as they are for the rear leaf spring U-bolts).

UPDATE:

I did (most) of the job this week. I have edited my original post and changed the order of several of the steps to reflect the order in which I actually did the work (more logical). I did not do the valve cover gaskets, because the passenger side is not currently leaking that bad (there is a trace of grime stuck to the engine over the PS pump), and the driver side, not leaking at all. Also, the number of wires that would have to be removed from the valve covers, and likelihood of my breaking something scares me. I therefore skipped steps 31-34.

While working on the hoses for the bypass, one of the Toyota Hose Clamp (clips) broke. After removing the 4 M8 8mm allen head machine screws from the Intake Air Plenum, I noticed that one of the allen heads was buggered, and they were all VERY crusty.

I replaced the broken clamp with the smallest one available from Advance Auto, and I used a 6mm M8 stainless steel allen head 8mm screw to replace the two 8mm screws in the worst condition (stripped head and rust).

I have OEM parts on order, and will continue with the install after they arrive. I suggest that anyone contemplating this job get 2 of each size hose clamp, and 4 new air plenum machine screws before they begin. Here are the part numbers:

9011008035 - M8 Machine Screw w/ 8mm head
9613741301 - Hose clamp
9613641501 - Hose clamp
NOT if you have towing package => 9613642501 - Hose clamp
9613741501 - Hose clamp​

I am currently at step 65.​

Second Update:

I completed the job yesterday, and filled the system with 2 gallons on SLLC (pink) coolant. After I put the new machine screws on, I sprayed them with a coat of WoolWax, and hope that this keeps the rust at bay for a little longer.

I also found that the 9613642501 hose clams DO NOT FIT on my TRD OR with the Towing Package. The part number for the correct clamp for the Towing Package is 9008046349

Also, I find that draining the CSF radiator is a messy job. Removing the aluminum plug allows coolant to spray out of the opening. I miss the Denso radiator's drain petcock.​

1. Remove Radiator to Frame Seal (9 plastic fasteners)
2. Remove Air Filter Snorkle (2 x 12mm bolts, 1 x 10mm)
3. Remove front Skid Plate (4 x 12mm bolts)
4. Jack up front and use jack stands
5. Remove both Front Wheels (6 x 21mm nuts)
6. Remove Fender Liners both sides (push-in fasteners)
7. Remove Battery (1 x 10mm nut)
8. Drain Coolant from Radiator – Plastic plug
9. Remove Air Intake

a. MAF Sensor wire
b. 2 Harnesses
c. 3 x 10mm bolts
d. 1 delicate hose to Fuel Pressure Regulator (back)
e. 1 PCV hose – disconnect @ intake​

10.Unbolt Fan Clutch (4 x 12mm nuts)
11.Remove Upper Radiator Hose Clamp and loosen hose at Block
12.Remove Lower Radiator Hose Clamp and loosen hose at Thermostat
13.Open Clip holding the two Transmission Cooling Lines from Shroud
14.Remove Fan Shroud Fan Clutch & Fan as unit (2 x 10mm)
15.Remove Radiator

a. 4 x 12mm bolts
b. 2 Hoses & Clamps
c. 2 ATF Cooling Lines (hose clamps)

i. Remove UPPER line
ii. Cap upper line
iii. Use compressed air to purge ATF from line and radiator (BOTH directions)
iv. Remove lower line
v. Add ATF to account for spillage to lower line & purge again
vi. Cap lower line​

16.Release Tension on Serpentine Belt – Pin with drill bit
17.Remove Alternator

a. Harness
b. Output Wiire -10mm nut
c. Wire Bracket – 2x 10mm bolt
d. Mounting Bolts – 14mm bolts​

18.Drain Coolant from block – TWO 10mm drains

a. Block Right
b. Block Left – cannot do with Alternator in place​

19.Remove VVTi Oil Control Valve Filters
20.Install VVTi Oil Control Valve Filter w/ new washers 46 foot-pounds
21.Remove Serpentine Belt Idler #2 (two of them) 14mm
22.Remove Belt Tensioner Pulley 13mm (REVERSE THREAD)
23.Remove Bearings from two Idler #2 and Tensioner
24.Inspect, Mask and Paint Idlers and Washers
25.Install new bearings in Idler #2 and Serpentine Belt Tensioner
26.Re-install Alternator

a. Wire Bracket 7 foot-pounds
b. Mounting Bolts 32 foot-pounds
c. Output Wire 7 foot-pounds
d. Alternator Harness​

27.Install Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley with Locktite on end threads 13mm (REVERSE THREAD) 27 foot-pounds
28.Remove Air Intake Surge Tank (plenum) Brackets (6 x 12mm)
29.Remove Air Intake Surge Tank (plenum) and Throttle Body as unit;

a. Throttle Position Cable
b. Vacuum Hose(s)
c. 2 x 12mm Bolts
d. 4 x 8mm Hex Screws
e. 1 x 10mm Screw (back)​

30.Tape over Air Passages
31.Remove Valve Covers

a. 7 x 10mm Short Bolts
b. 2 x 10mm Nuts
c. 3 x 10mm Long Bolts​

32.Install Valve Cover Gaskets in Valve Covers
33.Apply Ultra Grey to seam between Head and Timing Case Cover
34.Replace Valve Covers

a. 7 x 10mm Short Bolts 88 INCH-pounds
b. 2 x 10mm Nuts 80 INCH-pounds
c. 3 x 10mm Long Bolts 80 INCH-pounds​

35.Remove Thermostat (3 x 10mm nuts)
36.Remove Bypass Pipe (5 x 10mm bolts)
37.Remove Water Pump

a. 9 x Long Bolts 12mm
b. 8 x Short Bolts 10mm​

38.Install New Water Pump & Gasket

a. 9 x Long Bolts 12mm 17 foot-pounds – Put FIPG on threads
b. 8 x Short Bolts 10mm 80 INCH-pounds​

39.Replace Bypass/Crossover Pipe O-Ring. Use Super Grease
40.Install all New Bypass Pipe Hoses
41.Re-install Bypass Pipe (5 x 10mm bolts) 80 INCH-pounds
42.Replace Fender Liners both sides (plastic fasteners)
43.Mount both Front Wheels
44.Tighten Lug Nuts 83 foot-pounds
45.Re-install Air Intake

a. MAF Sensor wire
b. 2 Harnesses
c. 3 x 10mm bolts 71 INCH-pounds
d. 1 delicate hose to Fuel Pressure Regulator (back)
e. 1 PCV hose​

46.Re-install #2 Idlers 14mm bolt 29 foot-pounds
47.Re-install Serpentine Belt & release belt tensioner
48.Install New Thermostat (3 x 10mm nuts) 80 INCH-pounds
49.Remove Tape from Air Passages
50.Install New Air Intake Surge Tank (plenum) Gaskets
51.Re-install Air Intake Surge Tank (plenum) and Throttle Body to Manifold

a. 1 x 10mm Screw (back)
b. 4 x 8mm Hex Screws 21 foot pounds
c. 2 x 12mm Bolts
d. Vacuum Hoses
e. Throttle Position Cable​

52.Re-install Air Intake Surge Tank (plenum) Brackets 14mm bolts 15 foot-pounds
53.Verify that both block coolant drains are fully closed 10mm 9 foot-pounds / 108 INCH-pounds
54.Install New Radiator tighten to body

a. 4 x 12mm bolts 13 foot-pounds
b. Connect Coolant Hoses with Hose Clamps
c. Connect Transmission Hoses with Hose Clamps
d. Verify CSF Radiator drain is closed 16mm 55 INCH-pounds​

55.Re-install Fan Blades on New Fan Clutch
56.Slide Fan Blade/Clutch and Radiator Shroud into position
57.Pressurize Cooling System – Check for Leaks – 16 PSI for 10 minutes
58.Mount Shroud to Radiator 44 INCH-pounds
59.Put Transmission Cooling Lines into clip at bottom of Shroud
60.Mount Fan Clutch to Water Pump Pulley (4 nuts) 18 foot-pounds
61.Install Air Snorkle

a. 12mm bolts 71 INCH-pounds
b. 10mm bolt (@ throttle body) 44 INCH-pounds​

62.Install Radiator to Frame Seal (9 plastic fasteners)
63.Fill Radiator & Engine Block with OLD Coolant (3 Gallons)

a. Fill Radiator
b. Fill Overflow Tank to full​

64.Install Battery (10mm tie-down nut)
65.Drive truck with full heat on and bring up to operating temperature for several days
66.Jack up front and use jack stands
67.Turn cabin temperature knob to FULL HEAT
68.Remove both Front Wheels (6 x 21mm nuts)
69.Remove Fender Liners both sides (push-in fasteners)
70.Drain Coolant from Radiator 16mm ALUMINUM bolt
71.Install coolant drain bolt finger tight
72.Drain coolant from left side block drain – 10mm
73.Use vacuum/blower to facilitate draining all coolant
74.Drain coolant from radiator again!
75.Close coolant drain in block 10mm 9 foot pounds / 108 INCH-pounds
76.Close CSF Radiator drain 16mm 55 INCH-pounds
77.Fill Radiator & Engine Block with NEW Coolant (3 Gallons Toyota SLLC)

a. Fill Radiator
b. Fill Overflow Tank to full​

78.Mount Skid Plate 22 foot-pounds

[EDIT] I skipped the stuff in RED

 

Wow, looks like you've really planed this out. It's pretty ambitious to do all of this at once. I suspect a lot of the steps above relate to changing the valve covers - replacing the idler bearings, radiator, water pump, and VVTi filters is pretty straight forward and doesn't require a lot of those steps above. If there is a lot of common steps between replacing the valve cover gaskets and the other items, makes sense to combine into one project. If the steps are not that common between the valve cover gaskets and the other items, personally i wouldn't combine them - introduces risks associated with putting everything back together and makes it harder to trouble shoot if something doesn't work. Saying this with very minimal knowledge of steps required for valve cover gasket replacement.

I tighten my lug nuts to 84 ft*lbs.

 

This is one of those situations where I will have everything apart, and while I'm there I will want to get everything nearby that will wear out, or clog up, replaced.

I have begun to notice some oil around the right side valve cover near the power steering pump. I want this addressed. I am also aware of the machining defect that causes the oil leak between the timing case cover and the block, and will probably clean and add a schmear of Ultra Grey to this area too - while I'm there.

Good catch on the lug nut torque. Thank you! I just edited the above post.

Although the FSM states that it's actually 83 ft/lbs.

 

Good timing - I just finished a lot of this stuff up tonight. Not a how to, but see here for OEM parts for the cooling system/belt drive: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...m-refresh-oem-part-numbers-quantities.840670/

I leaned very heavily on this thread (I just downloaded the file and printed out the sections I needed - far better than trying to look stuff up as I went): https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

Also I don't think I saw a better walk through for all things related to this than this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMOChNpTOL4

 

Thanks for the links and the video. I used Faye's video as one source for my research into this project.

One thing that Faye doesn't mention is that you have to de-tension the serpentine belt to remove it. You do this by increasing tension on the belt tensioner. Then you can release MOST of the coolant pump bolts. Then you need to remove the pin holding the tensioner (de-tension it) to get at one bolt. Them you can put the coolant pump in place, and install MOST of the bolts. Then you need to put the tensioner under tension AGAIN, so that you can get the last of the bolts inserted. Then you can proceed until you install the serpentine belt, and can finally remove the pin (allen wrench, drill bit) to release some tension on the tensioner to have it do it's job of tensioning the belt.

During this job I replaced; the coolant pump, the fan clutch, both #2 idler pulleys, the thermostat, ALL of the coolant bypass hoses, both radiator hoses, all four radiator hose clamps (I painted the new ones), the VVTi oil screens & gaskets, the intake plenum to manifold gaskets, and a vacuum hose. As mentioned above, I will also be replacing the plenum to manifold screws, and several of the various sized small hose clamps.

 

updated

 

Update - All has been working fine for the past month since I completed most of the job.

I was cleaning out my Google Photos account, and I came across some reference pictures that I took while doing this job. Posting them here in case anyone is curious.

Original Coolant pump with 135K miles - showing crud at the weep hole. This crud led me to replacing the water pump. You can also see that I painted the tensioner pulley grey and the bolt red so that they would not rust, and to differentiate the 13mm LEFT hand thread from the 14mm right hand thread on the other pulley bolts.


The thermostat / bypass housing.


A closeup of one of the original hose clamps showing the rust that weakened them over time. I believe that this one broke as I was re-installing it.

 

In Faye Hadley's video she mentions using

$21 Toyota Genuine Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

Toyota Seal Packing on the long bolts (I assume that the end of the bolt ends up in the cooling jacket).


I chased all the threads on all the bolts too to clean them up. I have a supercharger and was replacing the spark plugs and sent the injectors out to RC Fuel Injection to clean and test ($210).

The spark plugs were a bitch to get out (100k miles on them) so I picked up this

$16 DPTOOL 14mm Back Tap Spark Plug Thread Repair Tool M14x1.25 Thread Chase Tap for Repairing Threads and Preventing Metal Shavings from Entering The Cylinder, 5.27'' Long

reverse tap to clean up the threads. I will use grease on the tap to keep debris out of the combustion chamber and plan on blowing and vacuuming the injector hole and the spark plug hole to also do my best to insure there is no dust or debris in the combustion chamber.



I'm also contemplating re-doing some of the split loom that has cracked - the spit loom under the supercharger was completely disintegrated and I will be putting

$14 13mm - 1/2" Self Closed Aluminized Sleeve Heat Shield Protection Side Entry High Temp for Hoses, Wire Harnesses, Cables, Automotive, Exhaust 39" (1 Meter)

heat shield where there where there used to be split loom from the factory.