MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Finally got around to doing this mod today, and kicking myself for not doing it sooner. Went with the dremel method mainly to justify adding a dremel to the tool bag and found one on sale at costco. Initially I was a little hesitant to to complete this mod as the trd sports clutch and brakes share the same resivor and I was unsure if I would have to bleed the brakes. So for any trd sport owners out there wondering if it's necessary to bleed the brakes after this mod, it is not. Bleeding the system through the clutch slave was sufficient in my case.

 

Anyone not already watching might be keen to know about the badassery going down today in this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ing-4th-gen-taco.629019/page-17#post-30336780

 

Once you drove it some and got the air out did the “softness” go away? How does it feel now?

 

I was the one who replied to your thread initially. In my experience, bleeding the clutch 2 man method doesn’t get much air out. Seems to be kind of random, probably based on how much fluid escaped and air entered during parts changing.

For me, anytime I touch it, the pedal is super soft for the first day, and then works the air out itself. Which then requires me to top off the res. Never takes longer than about a day, so if it’s been 2 weeks on yours then it may be worth looking into.

 

Sounds good, I appreciate the help. I just replaced my clutch and now I am looking into the adm and just trying to get a feel for what I should be looking out for. I don’t wanna mess up the new clutch. This new oem clutch feels different than it did before so I may get a second opinion from the shop.

 

A new clutch can feel different depending on what you had installed and just the newness. The stock parts have almost no feel, but CF wears very well. If you got something else, you will adapt to it.

Nothing that you do to the accumulator will change (or should change) the feel. The ADM only brings consistency to the engagement stroke.

 

This is what I was looking for, I really appreciate it. I was going nuts thinking I was messing something up. Thanks again, I plan on doing the adm this weekend now.

 

You're welcome!

 

@tonered - would the newer tacoma's benefit the from the ADM ?

 

Are you talking about 4th Gens or late 3rd Gens? The 4th Gen was said to not have an accumulator. All 3rd Gen 3.5ls have them and I would say that they all need to go. Of course, a few folks in this thread have said that they did not notice a difference.

My best advice is: If the clutch engagement just does not feel right, esp for consistency, try the ADM.

 

Good to know thanks! I’m getting at it this weekend and have been wondering about that

 

Really hoping people are still active in this thread. So I did the ADD accumulator delete disc today. Everything went well to my knowledge. Top bolts suck both on and off… I’ve bled everything with a vacuum pump. Now here is the kicker and maybe this is normal. So my clutch engages IMMEDIATELY. Like there is no throw. The top of the pedal is extremely light then the bottom tightens up a bit when it engages and disengages. I feel like something wasn’t bled right. Is this what’s happening? I should still have pressure through the entire travel of the clutch right?

 

Give it time, the clutch will bleed itself. Bleeding the clutch deliberately doesn’t really do anything concrete. It will work the air out itself over time.

 

There should be no overall change to the feel of the clutch and the difference is very subtle.

The system will bleed out itself so maybe give it a few days. The first time I did mine I had air in there and it fixed itself within two days

 

I had an hour drive the next day in the morning so to be safe I gave it a second bleed at 10pm with my dad. It actually did fix it. I think there was just air getting stuck in the new void from your plate. I want to thank you personally for making this product at such an affordable price. You’re craftsmanship is excellent and I’m super happy with the performance. Clutch feels much better now. I actually enjoy downshifting lol.

 

id bleed it again if I were you... maybe the clutch will bleed itself eventually, but no way in hell would I drive my truck around for a few days if it werent right, hoping that it will magically fix itself eventually... thats just half ass work in my opinion. you can bleed the clutch easily and by yourself, but do it the traditional way, ive never had good luck with the vacuum pumps.

Get a long bar, something like your jack handle will work, you might need to slide your seat all the way forward to reach the clutch pedal when its all the way to the floor. get a short length of clear tubing that fits over the bleeder nipple, and get something like a gatorade bottle, or water bottle. put some brake fluid in it, poke a hole in the cap and slide the tube inside the bottle and submerge it in the fluid, this will prevent air from potentially going back into the cmc, and attach the other side to the bleeder. pump the clutch maybe 4 or 5 time, and then hold it to the floor with the long bar wedged in the seat. go under the truck, and crack the bleeder an 1/8 or 1/4 turn for a second, maybe 1.5 seconds, then close it, you will see air bubbles going through the tube into the bottle. go inside the truck, take the long bar off the clutch pedal, and you will have to pull the clutch up with your hand. repeat this process until you see no air bubbles, the clutch is firm and you only see brake fluid when the bleeder is cracked open. keep an eye on the fluid reservoir because you dont want it to go dry during this process. also dont crack the bleeder open for too long, you want the pressure you built up by pumping the clutch to push the air out, and you dont want air going back into the master cylinder. good luck

 

You can bleed it 30 times manually and still have air. I did. The system is self bleeding. It’s not half ass at all to leave it once it’s “good enough” because often times more and more
bleeding doesn’t accomplish anything at all. I’ve been through this many times on my truck.

 

A camera monopod works great, as it is adjustable

 

I disagree... it's pretty easy to bleed the clutch and get most if not all the air out of the system and get a firm pedal feel and not experience the symptoms that the OP is experiencing. Guy is saying that his clutch is engaging immediately, and that is definitely not normal, and not something I'd just let work out on its own. Not sure what kind of bleeder he used, but the cheap ones never worked for me. In the op's situation I'd guess that his clutch didn't bleed good because of the vacuum bleeder and that's why I'd recommend bleeding again the traditional way.

 

I don't bleed with vacuum bleeders either...I use the 2 man method and still, every time there is always air left. Not so bad that it starts to engage immediately off the floor, but "bleeding" definitely never gets all the air for me. I have opened up my clutch hydraulics a bunch of times now, like 6 or 7 times for various reasons (accumulator, transmission swap, FJ pedal swap, etc). I am to the point where I no longer even bleed it, I just pump the pedal a bunch of times until I get it most of the way there, then driving works out the rest of it. 2 man bleed would speed up the process a bit but it still won't get all the air out. Not in my experience anyways.

It is self bleeding naturally by design.