My kid lost interest so I'll build it for the Lil Mrs. build

Of course, I did absolutely nothing on the truck or Runner today.

The alternator swap harness got here, and the A/C Idler bearing. Along with the Prototractors I mentioned earlier.

A friend of mine is working on meeting up with a FB Market find tomorrow... an air filter box that doesn't have all the bolt locations broken and a bunch of Gorilla tape holding it together. lol

 

For sure, I followed this thread long enough to see what you’re going for - I just didn’t know if you meant you hadn’t seen any pre made cage for 3rd Gens including theirs.

 

Well. @Pella was able to grab the un-jank-ified air box for me. I'll get it from him this weekend.

Got the battery tray Robert made out. JAYsus that was a pain in the ass.

The tray was made out of 5/16 and his plug welds were 3/4.

 

Gunna go to town on some more fender/apron cutting.




Going off my truck, that should clear 37s. Mine doesn't rub at all.

 

Good enough for Government work




Definately can't be a 4600 now

 

Any further clearancing on the front can be done with a hammer. I'm done for the evening.

Tomorrow will be on to the rear wheel wells.

 

Removed the rear bumper (which was a lot more of a pain in the ass than I thought it would be).

Marked out the rear wheel wells, to cut tomorrow.

 

Straightened up the garage this morning. Well, as much as I could, with the room I have.




Some of the aftermath of the fender/apron cuts

 

Ok, so I checked my work.

Removed the coil overs and bump stops. Mounted a 37, jacked it up to within a half inch of where my up travel will end.






No rubbing on the fenders or apron.

I do rub on the frame (3.5 LT will fix that) and the UCA (going from 4.75 back space wheels to 3.5 back space will fix that).

AND... I still have a 1 inch body lift to install.

 

@MattJakobs @theesotericone @JTFisherman

How did you guys clearance the back?

Meaning, I removed the coilover in front so I could jack up the wheel without jacking up the truck. Did you guys remove the coil to do that in the back?

 

Yep. Remove the rear shock and coil then cut way more then you think you need too. When the rear articulates its gonna do things you can't replicate unless you got a fork lift laying around. Which I think @JTFisherman might. lol

 

Ya, speaking of articulation. When this thing is done, it's going to articulate even differently than it is now. That's one of the things I'm keeping in mind.

Longer axle will put the tire in a different spot, and different links are going to swing the axle to a different spot as well.

 

Got everything out of the way and the coil bucket cleaned up. Now I have a clean space to work doing my Cardboard Aided Design templates for the coil bucket reinforcements.

 

https://www.instagram.com/fritchle/

 

Account is private

 

You should give him a follow - one of the few 4runner builds I've seen:

 

I requested to follow.

 

Arts and crafts time

 

Had a failing 8” ring gear in the 4runner after 5 years on 35s. I would do 9” or 9.5. 8 would work for a while but I would expect it to break eventually.

Diamond 9.5 claims the same clearance as a factory 8” housing.

like @theesotericone said, scaled it at 5040 with only driver, a spare tire and 10lbs of tools so I guess I’m fatter than him.

Skids, sliders, cases, plate front, tube rear, ~100lb wheel and tire setup.

i am considering an 8” front… ring gear is barely larger but the splines are 1.203 at the root compared to 1.032 for the 7.5 and the 9” is 1.295.

So according to the spline diameter (where I have broken in the 7.5s) 8” is 82% stronger than
9” is 34% stronger than 8” or 145% stronger than 7.5”

Nice thing about the 8” is the unit bearings are 6x5.5, and the steel case keeps it so much smaller.

cage wise, send this guy a message. I’ve talked to him a bit but never got the file because I didn’t want to cage the 4 runner. Very interested to hear thoughts on the bendicators, thought about buying two because I got a bender, but if I cage it would likely be 1.75. Also if 4 are worth it or just doing one side and mirroring it with 2.

 

rear tires, I would maybe relief cut it then just roll it up under with a big ass hammer.

when I went to 37s I cut and welded the passenger side, driver side I just took what was already done and rolled it up under an extra inch with a hammer.

I think driver side looks better and it was way easier.

truth is, I probably clear by a good everywhere in the rear now that it has a rear sway bar, so if you plan to add one you probably don’t need to go wild, but it is nice for peace of mind. I also never notice the loss of flex from the rear sway bar, I love that thing.

this is the most I see with sway bar, extended durobumps in the rear… no good pics on a forklift with the sway bar lol


And before sway bar, 35s with 1.75” of offset on a stock axle, they tuck in


Before sway bar, 37s with 2.75” of offset just eat the fenders. So if you plan on 66+ wms rear this is about what it would look like. It isn’t bumped out yet here, just wedged into the fender and bumper.