My kid lost interest so I'll build it for the Lil Mrs. build

Right on man. Lots of good info in here. Thank you.

I'm really interested in the 9 inch Tundra front. Once I saw that Treehouse Phin dude do it to a 1st Gen Sequoia, I knew it can be done. (You're fitting it in the same space, essentially). And he's still wheeling that thing, and building it (He just did rear coilovers not too long ago).

I'll let you know how the cage goes for sure.

 

Lots more good info... thank you!

I'm considering a rear sway bar. Like an Antirock bar like this. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ZEqpYGXKjlzln8Eeq3Krm2H7dy9bg10AaAnxMEALw_wcB

I Just haven't dove deep into researching that part yet.

 

I recognize that guy. When he started, he posted it in a build thread on IH8MUD. Dude seems hella cool.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3rd-gen-4runner-racing-build.1240361/

https://www.goodmayhemracing.com/

 

Taking some time out to work on someone else's 4 Runner

 

Thing that steers me away from the 9” is it will either stick out the bottom of the skid or take a significant motor lift. I don’t want a body lift and it gets too tight with the motor pushed up that much. Main limiter is the bell housing, hammering oil pan would be no big deal imo.

I lifted my motor 2” and lifted the trans maybe .5” (unbolted and let it pivot on the duals mount) and this is how it looked, I think I have more pics in my thread and have a bunch more pics and videos if you want.




Sway bar wise, I would recommend a tk1 u4 bar with about 18” or longer arms. Similar price as an anti rock, nicer product, individually owned, super helpful owner.

It will be stiffer than an anti rock but I can easily say this is one of my favorite additions, feels so much more stable.

 

I'm doing a body lift, for sure. (I'm actually probably going to install it next weekend)

I'm pulling the motor to finish the engine cage (when it goes in) and I'm already going to replace the motor mount perches. I'm considering lifting the motor mount perches an inch to follow the body lift.

 

You can probably do 1.5” or so without having fan clearance issues on the rad, I would do as much as you can if you plan on a big front diff.

also I think someone already said it but +1 for bonzen solid motor mounts.

 

Only concern i would have for going up, is if this thing ever gets a supercharger.

 

If that's the case then you could do a 01-04 Taco conversion with glass and hood. I don't have a better picture, but there's an engine hoop going over my sc that fits under the 01+ Hanneman fiberglass hood.

 

More pics of today's festivities

 

5vz going in?

 

I keep telling him he should. But he ordered a fresh 3vzfe from Yota1. But he's going to do the exhaust reroute. Nick (owner of Yota1) said he's never seen the cylinder 6 issue happen on a 3vz with the reroute done.

5vzfe would be more powa tho.


It's my buddy's kid's project. A Yota1 5vzfe would have been another 2 grand. And he's already doing this motor swap, SAS, and Chevy 63s in back. So, I get the budget. Just glad to be helping them with their project.

 

I respect the sidewalk engine swap

 

I know right? His garage is set up as a gym and his driveway is to much of an angle. So... we just did shit in the street.

 

@JTFisherman is this the right front diff, the 9 inch Tundra diff.



https://carpartsdirectstore.com/pro...eqSSH4rDMg39Gx0bGxnTJ4L9HbLi1fFEaAtZkEALw_wcB

 

Yes that is it.


don’t know what your junkyard situation is but I think I got the diff and CVs for like 150 on a 50% off day, worth checking to see if there are any tundras atleast.

I did get lucky someone pulled the motor on one though so I just had to pull the diff out of the engine bay lol

 

Most of the good stuff around here goes to the Auto Dismantlers. At least with 4 Runner and Tacoma... I've never really looked in Pick n Pull etc for anything Tundra. I'll have to check. I have had really good luck with a dismantler in Rancho Cordova (Near Sacramento). That's where I got the trans, t case, front driveline for my 4wd swap on the Tacoma. And the rack that's on the T4R is from there as well.

I was brain storming the front end of this thing all friggen night last night. Kept waking up with ideas. I'm going to brain storm a bit right here.

First of all. I reached out to Nathan yesterday. What a good freaking dude! He sent me a file with about 1000 pics (no joke) of his build. One of the things he is working on for his race truck (that ties in to this, bare with me) is the front cross members.



https://youtu.be/1Rt86OpDOGI?si=w-ZIQvBro0ASkNE2

That thing is BEEF! I want to do that to the T4R AND my Tacoma lol.

Later on in the video, he mentions he wants to do something with the rear LCA crossmember as well. But, mentions that is where the steering and rear mount of the diff is located. (I'm not sure if he has made any progress towards that, I haven't had a chance to ask him yet.)

Now here's where it ties in to the Tundra diff.

My plan is to pick up a Tundra diff. But I'm ALSO looking at trying to snag a front frame section (Like he's got later in the video) for mock up.

As stated earlier, I'll be 1 inch body lifting the truck. That gives me 1 inch to raise the motor to get back to the same engine compartment relationship as stock. I could go up another .5 to 1 inch and then have to possibly deal with hood issues with an SC and with engine cage cross over bars. I can deal with that.

By fabricating new LCA crossmembers, at first I thought, what if I dropped them down .5 inch (basically a mini drop bracket)? But that would change the distance between the UCA and the LCA, and I don't think I want to do that.

BUT... What if I keep the LCAs where they are and drop the steering rack .5 inch? The only thing I can see that would affect is the rag joint, that would already need to be addressed with the body lift, and the steering link angles. It would actually put the steering link angles closer to the stock angle anyway.

Am I missing something?


I can see where this would add a LOT of work here, but I'd rather do it now, than have to tear everything apart again later.

 

A benefit to raising the engine, and having to deal with the hood issues, is having to deal with trans tunnel issues as well. Yes, I said that would be a benefit... a lot of work, but a benefit in the long run.

I'm seeing where I would raise the trans and tcase to follow the engine. That would give me a flat belly.

 

I love how he makes the ears a replaceable part.

But I question the need to go all the way to making that 1/4 inch 4130. I think that's overkill. I'm thinking normal mild steel would be fine there. It would be WAY more cost effective and also WAY easier to deal with (welding perspective). I also think the ears can be removable, but they should be removable in an assembly (front and back ear together) because they should have a plate of the side facing the inside of the truck. (Making that assembly three sides, if you will).

 

if you drop the steering rack it would change bump steer some because you are moving the centerpoint of the arc that the tie rod travels in, probably wouldn't be anything crazy but it would change it.

I forget the reason why he is beefing up that crossmember so much... I have taken some fucking hits and mine still looks ok. I also feel like the rear LCA bolt sees more force than the front.

also worth mentioning since it seems like you are serious about this... I would 100% ditch add and just shorten the tundra shaft to spline straight into the diff. Weak point of the tundra diff is the add stub, it necks down a ton compared to the jackshaft. You could get a custom one made, but I think you could just send the existing jackshaft to dutchman or similar and they could shorten as needed and re-spline the end to go straight into the diff.