Everything Elka and How They Compare

Yeah basically you're right. The bumpstop on the frame is the limit, and past that the CV joint starts to pop out so there really isn't any more uptravel to be gained. It's rare that the shock becomes the upper limit unless you did a gross spacer lift or went too tall of a coil with too much preload.

You wouldn't use all of that shock travel anyway. The cv joints only really allow for about 10-11 inches of wheel travel, and it's about a 2:1 ratio for shock travel. So you don't actually need more than about 6" of shock travel.

 

I mean in theory it's possible. Just will be that much more of a pain in the ass though. You'll have to get a vice in there or something, clamps wont do it.

 

Yes. I use a chunk of 1/2” threaded rod and a couple sockets.

 

I receive my Elka 2.5 IFP on Christmas eve these things are beefy and well made, plus I dont have to worry about any rust issues like some kings & fox I Have seen enough pictures of both brands looking real bad after some years... here is my post I made
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/elka-2-5-ifp.849089/#post-30344094

 

Sorry old thread. 11.6x330 is 650? I called toytech yesterday (since Elka makes their shocks) and they said 11.6 was 600.

threw on a set of RCI steel skids, full set, and I lost over an inch on the 11.6x330’s. Debating if I crank preload or go to the 12.6x330’s I have spare. I could do about another 1/2” of threads showing on the 11.6.

anyone have experience with the 2.5 IFP on preloaded 11.6’s vs 12.5’s with less pre load? No bumper or winch. Just full steel skids

 

How do you like the Ride with elka 2.5 IFP?

 

I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that the 10.7 or 11.6 number is KG/mm. 10.7 kg is 23.54 lbs. 23.54 x 25.4mm/inch = 597.9 lbs/inch. 11.6 = 648.2 lbs/inch

Keep in mind that 3rd gens are 300 lbs heavier in the front and come stock with 700lb coils. 2nd gens use 580lb coils stock. So if you started with 650 on a 3rd gen and lost 1" with the added weight that makes sense.

It will depend what lift you are trying to achieve. You can only add so much preload before you over compress the coil which risks coil bind on bottom out. But 1/2" of preload should get you that 1" of lift back. Whether you have that much preload left in the coil or not I couldn't tell you. You could always go with a 14" (356mm) version of the 650 as well. If you find you are blowing through the travel too often and hitting bump stops, or getting too much dive on braking/corners, a stiffer coil may be the way to go.

 

Small bump honestly seems not as great as I’d think for a progressive shock.

My tires are E load though and put them on at same time as the shocks so not able tell which is the cause of that.

The Rears blow through travel super fast when paired with Icon RXT packs on first or second setting.

When y’all adjust preload do yall use a spring compressor or just yank on that top ring after loosening the allen bolt? Tool I have is shaped like this



kinda wish it was just a long straight stick lol

 

Copy. Appreciate it. I’ve got about 1.75” of thread showing right now. So technically at most I could go to 2.5” showing, and be fine.

just got time crunched since I added full steel skids and lost little over an inch, and I’m hitting Moab this Friday lol. Didn’t think a set of skids would drop it that much

 

Last i looked was pretty sure these are linear not progressive. Did you have them valved for your set up/driving style or are they off the shelf? As annoying as it is custom valving is almost a necessity on high end suspension to take full advantage of them. I had 2.0's which were fine then 2.5 dsc's huge improvement then re valved 2.5 dsc's and they are night and day. Then I can't dial up my conpresdion settings for on road then dial my low speed nearly off to help with small bump compliance off road.

And e load tires at anything over 20 psi make the trucks ride like a dump truck. I'm 30 psi on road 18 for service roads. And 12 for trail use.

 

11.6x356 is a 650lb coil that's what I'm running. Pulled from elkas site.

I had 11.6x330's but had them changed as there was a disgusting amount of thread showing once i actually got the truck to lift.

 

both of these are pretty accurate to my experience. I couldn’t bite the bullet for 17” wheels to get non E tires in a 33” of my preferred tire. A 14” 650 would be perfect but I’ve just got a 13” 700 pound set that’s spare and not sure I wanna go that stiff especially with them tuned as is. Will look into re valve if I rebuild them. May switch to some other shocks instead though. Some Resis would be nice since a lot of the time I’ll opt for longer higher speed stuff rather than crawling low speed

 

I use a punch and wd-40. And it still sucks!

 

I started with 13" 700's and it was gross with no weight. Even with my aluminum armor and winch the 650's are golden

 

If I bought a bumper off my friend he’s trying to convince me to get, no way the 13” 650s cut it. I’ll have to go to 2.5” of threads showing to get mine just lower than level after adding full RCI skids under

 

why did you not go with another brand that sell aluminum skid plates?

 

Cus I got a full powder coated set for under 500 bucks and didn’t have to pay shipping. Plus skids I want steel anyway

 

Price is usually the big one for most. Steel is also better if you know your going to bang it of rocks regularly. For me skids and eventually sliders arr only incase of those oops moments. I don't put the truck at risk to often on hard trails so the weight savings on aluminum is superior to steel.

Also aluminum doesn't rust. I have un coated skids that still look pretty good after 2 winters.

 

If you go with a steel bumper of any sort ontop of steel skids you will need 700's

 

For sure. I don’t want to buy his bumper. For me cutting front corners for clearance is most I should need. But steel skids was the only way to go in my mind. Adding even an aluminum bumper and winch is a whole can of worms that’ll need a lot of considering. Re gear at that point potentially and just keeps going lol


Those of y’all with IFP Elkas what bump stops you run? Especially in rear I seem to smack em super fast. Could be a leaf pack thing too