Audio Guru's Help

From my last system, I have two amps an audiobahn A8002T, A6004T and an Eclipse CD7200MK deck. Haven't owned a truck in 7 years, with what I have how would you finish the system or what would you change to start? Have never used sound deading or capacitor but would consider. I want to use only one sub most likely sealed, ported would be great but space is an issue. Component's front and maybe rear.

 

Are you running active? I only ask because the CD7200Mk II is a dead head, and a great deck.

If so, are you comfortable with raw drivers, or do you want packaged sets?

Willing to sell those amps for some much smaller?

How set on rear fill are you? I would pass it (especially with that deck...) but its up to you.

Budget?

 

Haven't thought of budget. I know it's a passive deck that's why I have a 4 chanel amp and an amp for sub. In past system's ran component set off of one amp and sub from other amp bridged. Have not thought about selling amps but will consider all options, I know they are big in size. Just not sure how to set up in truck.

 

What matt means by running the deck active is do the tweeters on channels 1 and 2 and the midbass drivers on 3 and 4 of that 4channel amp. Then the sub gets it's own amp.

If you're really looking for fantastic SQ that's the way to go. That deck really is something special.

Honestly I'd sell both amps and jump on a Kenwood XR5. Great power and a small package. Link to amp in question.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FaLWTuIbzvk/s_113XR5S/Kenwood-XR-5S.html

 

I wasnt telling you it was a dead head, but throwing it out for others that may not know..

How much space are you willing to give up for amps/subs?

 

Sorry for not understanding what you were trying to ask. In past system, I have ran a component set up front and 6.5" in back powered by a 4 way amp. Bridged the other amp to power a single sub. The last to sub's I had were both Elemental Designs e3.12 sealed box and a 13Av.2 ported that took some room. I would like to keep at least one of the plastic compartments if possible. ItalynStylion that sound like it could be a good way to go.

 

Am I understanding this correctely. You would set the truck up with an amp going to front tweeters and front woofers on indpendent channels and a sub on seperate amp or channel depending on amp. And then not use rear speakers.

Yes I am willing to get rid of my current amps.

Again sorry for ignorance raw drivers (purchased sets of tweeters or woofers) or packaged sets (component set)?

 

You are correct - that is a great deck for running active - 1 amp channel to each individual driver, so 4 channels to the front speakers.

Yes again to no rear speakers, when using this setup.

Your amps are fine, but are a bit large. If you want to keep storage space they may have to go.

As to raw drivers - buying individual speakers on their own, vs components - all in one box kits with the mids, tweeters, and crossovers.


If you think you want to run rear speakers then you will want to run components up front and may coaxial speakers in the rear, and you dont need to worry about running active.

 

I am not very knowledgeable, so help is appreciated. It would be great if the amp(s) could fit under the seats.

I have never looked into an active setup.

What is the difference between an running active setup and components up front with coaxials in rear?

I have had both sealed and ported boxes have enjoyed both which would you recommend with either setup?

 

Active gives you a little more control to set the crossovers and slopes, as well as the phase (though this could be done with a passive crossover). Passive would just use the crossovers that came with the drivers. It is really a matter of audio customization for the vehicle, drivers, and your listening style.

Benefit - just the control, and helping set up a great sound stage.

Benefit to running passives (with the time alignment of that deck) and rear coax drivers - "sound all around". Some like it, others dont. Its a personal thing.

It is purely a matter of how much you want to mess with it. For 99% of the car audio market, passive sounds great, and they enjoy it. If you are one of those guys, rock it!

As to ported or sealed - I am a fan of ported for the higher output, "free" efficiency if you will. But I run both sealed and ported, depending on the sub, power, and air space I have available. I am not a proponent of either, as both have their place. Sealed is much easier in this truck, and due to the space, more realistic.

I will be running active, no rears, and probably a sealed sub (subject to change!) in the truck, but that is what fits my needs, space, and equipment.

 

Thanks for the advice. Will probably go passive, not enough knowledge to go active and understanding all the things the deck will do.

In your opinion what would be a good setup going passive with a sealed sub and a ported sub? Is it possible to lose only one side of the back going ported?

 

All down to budget. If I were OK waiting a bit, this would be my choice for components:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/150333-gauging-interest-8-tacoma-component-kit.html

For a pre-packaged set, I think the ID XS69 set would be a great option to use passive.

I think you could go ported on the passenger side of the double cab, but you will have to be very careful with sub choice. My choices:

Dayton HO 10 ported
JBL GTO 8 ported

2 JBL GTO 8 sealed

Beyond those, most decent subs will do fine.

 

Ok, budget the longer I wait the bigger the budget.

Waiting a bit depends on how long a bit is, your prefered components in kit when developed would be great.

I will sell amps and get a Kenwood xr5 amp. How well will this amp work for the prefered kit and ported Dayton HO 10 sub?

How would you get the system installed if you were me with limited knowledge? Active or passive? Don't mind learning with resources.

Sub box recomendations for mention sub?

I really do appreciate the feed back. Thanks

 

If you want rear speakers I would do this:

Kenwood xr5s, or JL XD700/5

The component set Steven is working on (the ones I linked, 8" drivers)
An inexpensive coax, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Blaupunkt-Vel...2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1303530265&sr=1-2

Then I would go with 2 JBL GTO8" drivers, in a small sealed box in the passenger cubby area.
OR
A ********* or similar box behind the driver side rear set, and something like an IDQ10

Also, substitute in the ID XS69 driver set if desired


If I did not want rear speakers I would probably consider a 4 channel and bridge the rear channels for a sub, or a 5 channel with LOTS of power for the components up front.

If you think you want to try active, or think you want to do some reading, check out DIYMA.com, MobileSoundScience.com (a personal favorite...)

Here is some basic reading:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...fference.html?highlight=active+versus+passive

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...s-active.html?highlight=active+versus+passive

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...e-detail.html?highlight=active+versus+passive

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-passive.html?highlight=active+versus+passive

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...fication.html?highlight=active+versus+passive

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-passive.html?highlight=active+versus+passive

 

I will try active being my deck will allow it, need to learn a few things.

Will get rid of amps and get a new amp(s). Would the kenwood or jl bridged for the front and the channel for the sub be a better option for the amp as opposed to a 4 channel amp. Still need to do some reading, but willing to try an active setup.

Would this change your speaker selection on fronts and sub?

 

If you go passive, I would certainly consider bridging channels of a 5 channel (making it a high power 3 channel) for the front.

If you are thinking of going active, start out using a complete component set, just use the amp and your deck for crossovers instead of the included passive. If you dont like it, you can just run it passive, and bridge the amp.

No reason to change drivers until you know you want active and want to try other stuff.

 

Ok will start looking at components, starting with amp, sub and front speakers last.

Will follow the thread with the components Steven is working on.

Thanks again.