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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. Apr 24, 2011 at 6:34 PM
    #501
    TacoMTB

    TacoMTB Well-Known Member

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    48,600 and the old plugs were all Denso's which leads me to believe they were changed at the 30k service.
     
  2. Apr 24, 2011 at 9:26 PM
    #502
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    I'm no mathematician but that looks like 18,600 and a 2mpg increase in city driving. How was the gap ? All a nice tan color ? What ever works but sounds weird don't it ?
     
  3. Apr 25, 2011 at 7:18 AM
    #503
    TacoMTB

    TacoMTB Well-Known Member

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    It was more than I was expecting. The majority of driving is short trips around town and I haven't changed my shifting habits. I bought this truck with 36xxx on it and don't have any past service records to confirm the last plug change. Since they were all Denso I have to think they were replaced at/near 30k. The old plugs look relatively clean and do have a slight tan color. I didn't check the gap on the old ones, I will tonight.
     
  4. Apr 25, 2011 at 8:02 AM
    #504
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Just curious. Either way U R good to go now for another 30,000 and you know the job was done right.
     
  5. Apr 27, 2011 at 8:42 PM
    #505
    Spitfire12

    Spitfire12 Well-Known Member

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    Great job! I curious, Because I went to buy anti-seize, they keep told me that not need use it for spark plugs? that true?
     
  6. Apr 28, 2011 at 2:30 PM
    #506
    Oregon TRD

    Oregon TRD "GO DUCKS" Edition

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    1st off - Chris....rep 4 u! :thumbsup:

    Amazing write up

    2nd - I'm no wrencher but i can do the whole oil change, and simple shit like that. I got a quote from Toyota to do this spark plug change for $110. I'm thinking of biting the bullet (I don't trust myself much around an engine) and doin this myself. One question...what's the difference between these Denso's?
    Denso (3421) SK20HR11 Iridium Long Life Spark Plug
    and
    Denso (3381) K20HR-U11 Traditional Spark Plug

    I mean 1 is Iridium and 1 isn't, but i've been reading that some people are using one and others using the other. And people using the Iridium are changing these out at 60k or 120k. I'm confused all to hell. Then the manual says change every 30k.

    I ran into these Spark Plug threads and realized that I haven't changed mine since I bought the damn thing. The 1 owner before me put 42,000 on it and I put another 39,000 on it since. It runs awesome,,,smooth, and whatnot but it's got to be time to change these at 81,000 miles.
     
  7. Apr 28, 2011 at 3:27 PM
    #507
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Others will chime in but it is my understanding that the Iridium are for the 2.7 at 100,000 miles though I question letting them go that long. The Traditional are for the 4.0 every 30,000. Why the difference only Chris 4X4 knows for sure.
     
  8. Apr 28, 2011 at 3:34 PM
    #508
    memario1214

    memario1214 Hotshot Offroad Moderator Vendor

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    First, this link should just be in this thread anyway...The truth about spark plugs...

    So read that guy, but as far as I am concerned, a spark is a spark... Your plugs should really be changed every 30k... The engine's don't matter either. They make iridiums and densos for nearly every application
     
  9. Apr 28, 2011 at 3:40 PM
    #509
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    That's very nice and I will read you link but I'm not rereading 27 pages on this tread to prove my point but it is what Toyota recommends as far as I recall.
     
  10. Apr 28, 2011 at 3:45 PM
    #510
    memario1214

    memario1214 Hotshot Offroad Moderator Vendor

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    I am not trying to get into a pissing match with you, I can assure you. I was legitimately trying to help this time...

    The whole thing about iridium is that it is like 6 times harder than platinum, so it is supposedly better suited for the volatile environment that is a piston chamber. There must be some differences in what's going on under the hood as a reasoning why Toyota would recommend iridiums on the 4 bangers.
     
  11. Apr 28, 2011 at 3:52 PM
    #511
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    I fully agree, Iridium is better and I have a 2.7 = less maintenance. Why the old school plugs for the 4.0 I don't know. The guy asked what's what and I was just trying to boil it down to the bare minimum, 27 pages down to a couple of sentences. Thanks.
     
  12. Apr 28, 2011 at 4:13 PM
    #512
    Oregon TRD

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  13. May 1, 2011 at 5:10 PM
    #513
    TacoSupreem

    TacoSupreem Dirty Trucker

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    Changed my plugs this weekend. Got the recommended Denso's from my dealer. Went to sears and bought a smaller torque wrench. Still came out cheeper than what the dealer wanted to charge. :woot: I didn't have any trouble with the change. All of my old plugs looked good. The gap on the denso's was still within spec. While the NGK's were at around 46. My truck has around 30,800 miles on it. This give's me comfort that i got the right plugs and good advise from a good man!(CHRIS4X4) :thumbsup: Thanks again Chris for the write-up. Now i gotta get my front/rear diff. and transfer case oil changed.
     
  14. May 2, 2011 at 9:46 AM
    #514
    wantingaduc

    wantingaduc New Member

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    Hey guys new Taco owner here.
    I bought my trcuk w/ 32,500 on the clock and knew it needed plugs.
    I saw this write up and decided after looking under the hood to give it a try.

    Man thank goodness I did.
    Got the plugs at the local Toyota dealer, and took 1 1/2 hours on Saturday to do the job from start to finish.
    the drivers side plugs were a bit of a pain in the ass, especially the front one.
    The connector was a bitch to get off, but then I coated the connectors with dielectric greese so hopefully it'll be a bit easier next time round.

    Thanks a lot to Chris4x4 for this excellent write up. You've peaked my confidence under the hood of this truck. It might be that it doesn't go back to teh dealership except for any warranty services it might need.

    Now I'm just waiting for my Access LE cover to show up and that'll be my next turn out in teh garage.

    Glad I found this site and it's good to be a member.

    jimi
     
  15. May 2, 2011 at 9:49 AM
    #515
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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  16. May 4, 2011 at 3:36 PM
    #516
    glenn27

    glenn27 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks --Chris, for a very detailed write up--and the pic s help. I do the same trick w/ electical tape down in a hole..

    Thanks again--

    glenn
     
  17. May 9, 2011 at 10:48 AM
    #517
    Jkinney65

    Jkinney65 Member

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    These were great instructions, and the photos are very clear. I would just add one thing I found, perhaps because my sprk plug socket is old and wouldn't hold the spark plug to remove it. After I got the plug unscrewed I used an telescoping magnet to get it out of the hole.
    Again GREAT INSTRUCTIONS
     
  18. May 15, 2011 at 12:03 PM
    #518
    TMW

    TMW Well-Known Member

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    Excellent Info thanks. The info on reading a plug reminded me of my MC racing days many years ago when we tuned the 2 strokes.
     
  19. May 15, 2011 at 3:25 PM
    #519
    Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the great write up! Just changed mine today for some Denso Iridium Power spark plugs from Advance Auto Parts. While i had the air filter box off, cleaned my K&N filter and went ahead and removed that second charcoal filter. Hoping for improved gas mileage. We'll see.

    That one spark plug on the drivers side nearest the headlights was a bugger to get unclipped! The skin under my fingernails hates me. haha.

    Thanks again for the write up!
     
  20. Jun 3, 2011 at 7:00 PM
    #520
    JKD

    JKD Well-Known Member

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    Good guide, mostly followed it. Took about 45 minutes to an hour.

    My advice, if you're comfortable doing your own work, is do a full side at once. Pull the coil wires, remove the coils, pre-grease them with dielectric grease, remove each plug and replace with a new one as you work your way up that side. Hand tighten each new one as you put it in. Torque them down one right after the other.

    Next time I might even do both sides at once. It minimizes tool changes.



    TOYOTA ENGINEERS: PLEASE GO AHEAD AND PUT IN THAT EXTRA 1" OF WIRE THAT IT WOULD TAKE TO MAKE THE DRIVER'S FRONT COIL WIRE LONG ENOUGH TO REMOVE. THANKS.
     

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