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Snow Wheelin on The MET Take #2

Discussion in 'Northern California' started by JLee, May 5, 2011.

?

what day?

Poll closed Jun 6, 2011.

  1. June 4th

    9 vote(s)
    50.0%

  2. June 5th

    9 vote(s)
    50.0%
Page 9 of 20
  1. May 18, 2011 at 8:44 AM
    #161
    1337Taco

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    Yea definitely if I can keep my lift and my armor. ;)
     
    1337Taco, May 18, 2011
    #161
  2. May 18, 2011 at 8:46 AM
    #162
    1337Taco

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    Yea I need a fix Kevin's truck day too. I have to replace ball joints, bushings, wheel bearing, and gears. :(
     
    1337Taco, May 18, 2011
    #162
  3. May 18, 2011 at 10:13 AM
    #163
    jberry813

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Hey Jim,

    If you're pulling the shocks and coils, I'd suggest you change that axle at the same time. It's a hell of a lot easier to do the axle with that coilover out of the way.
    Check this out:
    http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

    It's the same process for your truck but instead of 4 bolts on the LBJ it's only 2 grande bolts (19mm if i remember correctly). Only special tool you'll need is a 35mm axle socket and a ford tool (big effing deadblow hammer). I also saw a writeup somewhere (toyotanation or something) where a guy used a slide hammer and a hose clamp to clamp onto the axle to remove it. I used a prybar and the ford tool and whapped they prybar nice and hard to get the snap ring to come lose.
     
    jberry813, May 18, 2011
    #163
  4. May 18, 2011 at 5:57 PM
    #164
    05Moose

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    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (1.75), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    I just don't know if I'm comfortable replacing it from pictures/writeup alone. I still feel like it's missing things. For example, when did the steering get disconnected? I've never taken apart ball joints before (assuming that's what was done?). So until I see it done in person where I can look at how everything goes together and comes apart, I'd rather have assistance or watch it done first. Once I see someone fix/replace something, I can usually do it myself without any problems (well, problems always occur when working on vehicles in my experience...even today:D). But a "fix it" day would be good even if it were someone else's vehicle where I could watch/assist. I'm all for seeing how ball joins/wheel bearings are done on Kevin's truck.

    I did raise it back up to 1.75 today and installed my 1/4" spacer on the driver's side. Now the truck is "more" level from left to right (driver's still sitting just a little lower). With the tonneau and sandbags in the back, it's actually quite level. I think I would have been nose-high at 2.5. The vibe is just a little worse than it was at .85 without the diff drop. It's not good, but it's tolerable until I replace the cv axle. And it's doesn't even come close to what it was with the first front diff!
     
    05Moose, May 18, 2011
    #164
  5. May 18, 2011 at 6:08 PM
    #165
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    I totally understand. I have a spare vehicle so I'm a bit more daring when it comes to this kind of thing.

    For the record
    1) No need to disconnect anything in terms of steering. Once you pull the axle nut and LBJ you can pull the whole hub/spindle off the axle and set it to one side with steering still attached.
    2) No need to actually pull the "ball joint" itself as in needing a ball joint puller tool or nonesense. Toyota is semi intellegent. The ball joint stays connected to the lower hub. But there are two bolts that connect the bottom of the LBJ to the LCA. You can unbolt those bad boys and the whole spindle swings free.

    Lastly...my offer still stands if you are ever down in my hood. We can send the women and children off to Great America or something. That place drives me to drink :cool:
     
    jberry813, May 18, 2011
    #165
  6. May 18, 2011 at 6:25 PM
    #166
    stevenstaco

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    stevenstaco B A N N E D

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    1.5 aal,Tacomaworld sticker,Blacked out tail lights,bhlm,.dumped exhaust,relocated 7 pin ,rear diff breather mod,bed lights,hella 500s behind the grill,plastidipped lower vallance,mag light mod,debadged,black billit grill,bedmat mod,airaid intake,vynil armrests and back rests,tailgate theft mod, ipod interface,backseat cargo mod,front 5100s
    just took my truck to my local toyota dealership today for the vibes and they are worthless. they couldnt diagnose the problem I think Ill be calling the manager tomorrow :cool:
     
    stevenstaco, May 18, 2011
    #166
  7. May 18, 2011 at 7:42 PM
    #167
    stevenstaco

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    stevenstaco B A N N E D

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    1.5 aal,Tacomaworld sticker,Blacked out tail lights,bhlm,.dumped exhaust,relocated 7 pin ,rear diff breather mod,bed lights,hella 500s behind the grill,plastidipped lower vallance,mag light mod,debadged,black billit grill,bedmat mod,airaid intake,vynil armrests and back rests,tailgate theft mod, ipod interface,backseat cargo mod,front 5100s
    lets do it :D:D:D
     
    stevenstaco, May 18, 2011
    #167
  8. May 18, 2011 at 8:45 PM
    #168
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Ok Jim, you've definitly got me intrigued on this one. I figured out why they replaced the whole front diff instead of just the bearing.

    HOE.......LEE......SHIIIIIT!

    The bearing itself is a whopping $12. However, take a gander at the relevant FSM section:
    I didn't realize that lil bugger is actually on the case. It takes 6 pages of hell to get to the bearing. There are over 15 SST (special service tools) needed that I sure as hell don't have anything even close. I started adding the cost for the tools. After I got to tool number 8 it was already over $2500 in just tools.

    I'd have no problems helping you pull the front diff out, but you'll have to take it to a differential shop and get them to get to that bearing. PITA for sure.

    If you wanted to do the whole front diff itself is $1432 online. I say change the axle for $80 and go from there.
     
    jberry813, May 18, 2011
    #168
  9. May 18, 2011 at 8:48 PM
    #169
    stevenstaco

    #169
    stevenstaco B A N N E D

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    1.5 aal,Tacomaworld sticker,Blacked out tail lights,bhlm,.dumped exhaust,relocated 7 pin ,rear diff breather mod,bed lights,hella 500s behind the grill,plastidipped lower vallance,mag light mod,debadged,black billit grill,bedmat mod,airaid intake,vynil armrests and back rests,tailgate theft mod, ipod interface,backseat cargo mod,front 5100s
    2500 in tools :eek:...............would changing the axle help?
     
    stevenstaco, May 18, 2011
    #169
  10. May 18, 2011 at 8:53 PM
    #170
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    I stopped adding after tool number 8. There's like 15 SST's. I'm sure it's quite a bit more than $2500

    I think it would only help if you were in Jim's situation where the diff was already replaced and there's a possiblity the bearing effed up or scored the axle. I'm suprised the dealer didn't replace the axle at the time. If you have the same problem, changing the axle wouldn't fix anything (for long anyway).

    Simple test. Get your truck up to about 30-40 mph and put ur truck in 4wd. If the vibes go away, prob the bearing.
     
    jberry813, May 18, 2011
    #170
  11. May 18, 2011 at 9:00 PM
    #171
    stevenstaco

    #171
    stevenstaco B A N N E D

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    1.5 aal,Tacomaworld sticker,Blacked out tail lights,bhlm,.dumped exhaust,relocated 7 pin ,rear diff breather mod,bed lights,hella 500s behind the grill,plastidipped lower vallance,mag light mod,debadged,black billit grill,bedmat mod,airaid intake,vynil armrests and back rests,tailgate theft mod, ipod interface,backseat cargo mod,front 5100s
    already did the test ...my bearing is bad took it to the dealer today and they cant (wont) figure out the problem. I dont wanna pay 2200 for a new diff Im going to install my diff drop and see if the vibes get any better
     
    stevenstaco, May 18, 2011
    #171
  12. May 19, 2011 at 7:02 AM
    #172
    05Moose

    #172
    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    Jim
    In the snow (NorCal)
    Vehicle:
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (1.75), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    No, no, no, no, no! That's what I was going through last year and why I paid for a new front diff in June. But there have been several TW guys (one in the bay area IIRC) that have pulled the needle bearing out without removing the diff from the truck. They used a puller and fabricated a special plate (for what, I don't know because I'm a total noob at this). One guy, ywen, has a first gen with the same problem. After others showed it could be done, he found an independent shop that would do it too. He paid around $500 for them to replace the bearing without removing the front diff from the truck. So many have showed that it can be done. Unfortunately, the most info was in a thread started by Krookz and he got himself banned. tcBob deleted all posts by Krookz which was the main thread on this subject. I contacted Bob and he said he'd restore the thread but that it would take some work. I'm guessing it was too much work, he doesn't have time, or he forgot about it because the thread hasn't reappeared.

    Can tell I'm well versed in this subject?:D Between everything on TW and TN, I spent a lot of time reading and participating in this subject over the last year!

    FYI, I just sent tcBob a followup PM on restoring the thread.
     
    05Moose, May 19, 2011
    #172
  13. May 19, 2011 at 10:52 AM
    #173
    PreRunnerSeth

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    PreRunnerSeth Well-Known Member

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    Woohooo, thanks for bringing this up guys, i dont have a problem but im going to have them replaced anyways. additional cost to me..... $40 woohoo.
     
    PreRunnerSeth, May 19, 2011
    #173
  14. May 19, 2011 at 11:22 AM
    #174
    05Moose

    #174
    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (1.75), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    Well, you better not do it without us there! We NEED to see how it's done! Are the front diffs in the FJ the same as the Taco?
     
    05Moose, May 19, 2011
    #174
  15. May 19, 2011 at 11:29 AM
    #175
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Should be. And the 4runner. 8" reverse clamshell.
     
    jberry813, May 19, 2011
    #175
  16. May 19, 2011 at 11:36 AM
    #176
    05Moose

    #176
    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (1.75), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    Hey Jason, I found the write-up for the cv on TW (you mentioned it above) and it looks easier from this writeup (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/21192-how-change-cv-axle-01-04-add-tacoma.html). So I guess I can tackle it myself (maybe in June when I have more time). I bet Steven will want to be there when I do it.

    But I do have one question (and boy are we off-topic for MET #2 but damn I'm learning a lot here). The c-clamp that's on the end of the axle in the diff...it just stays on there when you remove the axle and then you put it on the new axle and shove it in there and it just locks in place? Just seems weird to me that this is how it works. I've also heard that you need to be careful if replacing the outer seal too because it can develop a leak later if you don't do it right. Is that only if you're replacing the seal or is it a risk when removing/reinstalling the axle? Should I buy a spare seal to have on hand just in case?

    And for the rest of you reading this thread, thanks for bearing with us.
     
    05Moose, May 19, 2011
    #176
  17. May 19, 2011 at 11:39 AM
    #177
    05Moose

    #177
    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (1.75), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    Okay then. Seth...free labor/help for you when you replace them, even if it's a weekday I'll take the day off from work!:D I already told my wife I will be attending these because it'll save us money in the long run.
     
    05Moose, May 19, 2011
    #177
  18. May 19, 2011 at 11:51 AM
    #178
    PreRunnerSeth

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    PreRunnerSeth Well-Known Member

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    It is being done tomorrow, and not by me. I'm regearing to 4.56 tomorrow. What they are is a needle bearing that rides in either side of the carrier. They are what allows your CV to spin freely when you are not in 4WD they don't move at all when in 4wd since the CVs are moving with the carrier--this explains why shifting to 4WD fixes it. Anyone who said they changed them without dropping the front diff is lying. They are in the carrier and the whole carrier has to be dropped to replace them. I figgured since they are already going to have it apart that I would have them replaced.


    ***********************
    Edit: I take that back. The one on the drivers side may be changeable without dropping the diff, which would make sense since this is the only side where the CV shaft rides directly on the needle bearing and thus be the one that goes bad. On the other side there is an intermediate shaft that is held firmly in place that rides on this bearing and would explain why it doesn't go bad.

    Either way I would not suggest tackling this yourself. There are precise depths that the needle bearing needs to be placed at and special tools needed to pull the bearing. Also, banging on the bearing to get it out with the carrier installed in the 3rd member could cause other tolerances in the diff to go bad.


    here is a break out. all the other bearings in the front diff are not needle bearings and are ball bearings or roller bearings.

    needlebearing.jpg
     
    PreRunnerSeth, May 19, 2011
    #178
  19. May 19, 2011 at 12:08 PM
    #179
    05Moose

    #179
    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    05Moose, May 19, 2011
    #179
  20. May 19, 2011 at 12:10 PM
    #180
    jberry813

    #180
    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Yep that'll work. It's really a very simple process once you get passed the mental mind hump.

    I haven't "replaced" the axles in my Tacoma. I did them in my 1st gen Tundra which is identical to the 1st gen Tacoma except the axles are longer. I did however have to replace the passenger side axle seal in the Tacoma...which you have to pull the axle out anyway. I've also replaced both CV boots on my wife's 4runner. It's all the same. Toyota cloning at it's best. My additional suggestion would be to pull the coilover off. It saves knuckles and swear words. Also its mandatory to use threadlocker on the LBJ bolts. Even torqued properly they come loose.

    The c-clamp as you called it is actually a snap ring. It's what keeps the axle in it's home. When you remove the axle, the snap ring compresses allowing the axle to slide out and will stay attached to the axle. Any new or reman axle you buy will come with a new snap ring installed. They are supposed to be 1 time use. You will have to transfer dust shields (two of em per axle) from old to new axle.

    You do need to be careful when removing/inserting the axle past the oil seal. If you're not carful, the snap ring can actually drag on the seal and gouge it. Pull the axle strait out, no angles (yet another reason to remove the coilover). Lube is your friend here (as it always is). Grease the hell out of the new axle before inserting.

    When inserting the axle, position the snap ring so the opening is facing up. Gravity seems to help here. It will insert past the oil seal and slide into the groves pretty easy and then it stops. At this point you'll need a long prybar or crowbar and a BFH. Put the end of the prybar on one of the groves on the axle houseing and I basically whapped the hell out of it with a 5 lb sledge to get the snap ring to compress and the axle fall the rest of the way in. Don't be shy...hit it hard. It is extremely helpful to have a friend here to hold the axle strait while you hit. It's doable with 1 person but damn I wish my 6 year old had a longer attention span then 37 seconds:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I replaced my axle seal on the Tacoma just because it was leaking from running through the mud pit, not from any misadventures with axles. My Tundra and 4runner both still have stock seals. Do not buy Napa axles. They will leak and make it seam like the seal is bad....when their axles just suck.

    Lastly...there's no effing way I would attempt to change the needle bearing without pulling the whole diff. I can see being able to remove the bearing with a slide hammer, but I'm sure that would destore the bearing in the process and risk dropping needles in the case. Installing would be a whole other beast. According to the FSM they are supposed to be installed with a press depth of 1.4 to 2.0 mm. If you do go this route, make sure you count your needles.

    Nov07a042_d1385b5be58936d7d1f286ae1e05cef99b2e6358.jpg
     
    jberry813, May 19, 2011
    #180
Page 9 of 20

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Rust-Oleum 248914 Truck Bed Coating Spray, 15 oz, Black, 15 Ounce (Pack of 1)
$11.44
EZ-Pour Gas Can Cap - Replacement Gasoline Can Cap - Update Your Can Today (Pack of 2)
$11.95
Dorman 700-671 Multi-Purpose Retainer, 25 Pack
$12.72
Death Valley National Park Recreation Map (Tom Harrison Maps)
$12.95
The Life-Changing Magic of Not Giving a F*ck: How to Stop Spending Time You Don't Have with People You Don't Like Doing Things You Don't Want to Do (A No F*cks Given Guide)
$11.99
Rust-Oleum 248658 Stops Rust Reformer Spray Paint, 10.25 oz, Matte Black
$8.97
WN 717.10 Series Stainless Steel Non Lock-Out Type Stubby Hand Retractable Spring Plunger with Pull Ring, 1/4"-20 Thread, 0.31" Thread Length
$9.09
10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder
$9.97
Maxxima M09300Y Amber 3/4" Round Combination Clearance Marker Light
$9.36
Madden NFL 17 - Standard Edition - Xbox One
$9.34
RC4WD 1/10 MaxTrax Crawler Extraction/Recovery Board RC4ZS0612 Electric Car/Truck Option Parts
$5.99
Tio Nacho Younger Looking Revitalizing Shampoo with Royal Jelly, 14 Ounces
$6.97
Baofeng BF-S112 Two Way Radio Speaker,Black, Auxiliary
$6.17
AOIT 10 Pcs Aluminum Transmission Fluid Drain Plug Crush Washer Seal Fits for Toyota Prius Corolla Tacoma Camry, Replacement for The Part# 90430-18008, Used for Change Transmission Fluid
$6.59
Camco RV Water Tank Filler with Shutoff Valve - Quickly and Efficiently Helps Fill Your Water Tank and Eliminate Line Backflow - Features a 5/8" Tube (40003)
$6.87
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