bedlight/add-a-circuit help

So I have 4 12" led strips all wired, mounted, and ready to rock along with a door jamb switch, so they come on when i let the tailgate down, and a kill switch in the bed pockets so I can turn them off when not in use. I got an Add-a-fuse but I'm not entirely sure which slot to put it in.

Do any of the slots behind the coin tray run constant power even when the truck is off?

I blew a 7.5amp fuse so should I amp it up to a 10amp fuse? (the package doesnt say how many amps each strip draws but I got the idea that the drew 1.5 amps each from oznium.com)

I've made sure everything is grounded by running a ghetto wire straight to the battery with an AM fuse box so I know the leds work I just hate to run wires from battery the permanently because it look sloppy.

Thanks for reading!

 

What size wire are you running?

 

18 guage

 

I wouldnt use 18 guage as the primary wire for any long runs, and def not straight to the battery, even on a test basis.

Obvioulsy other info out there but this is a good read and worth the time to look it over;
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/103969-electronics-basics-reference.html

EDIT-

BTW- If you want to find a constant hot for an "add-a-fuse", just get under there with a test light. You can get one cheap and is essential to any automotive or electronics tool box.

 

I sure wouldn't fuse 18 gauge wire for more than 5 amps, but I'd be really surprised if your LED bars are actually drawing 5+ amps. What are the specs on your LED bars? (should be marked in watts or amps)

 

i couldnt find it for the longest time but just found it today.. they draw 0.5 amps each

 

ya test light was my next option but i just wanted to make sure i wasnt getting overconfident and doing something completely obviously wrong. Great link by the way!

 

Okay, that's a 2 amp draw total, there is no way you need more than the 5 amp fuse you already have on that circuit. If the fuse is blowing, there's something else going on -- a short circuit or a bad LED module are the two things I'd look for.

 

Skip the test light and go straight to a multimeter. You can get a perfectly useable one at Radio Shack for $20 or less.

 

i have a multimeter but the stupid terminals dont fit!.. anywho i got an old fuze with an indicator light that was activated so i can find a terminal that has constant power...

Thank you, gentlemen!

 

Anytime!