09 Always-On Rear View Camera Wiring diagram (check my work)

I want to do the anytime camera mod but I don't want to install the switch at the mirror, I want the switch on the dash. I researched the wire map and I think I found the wire under the dash. Please check my work.

Is this correct? If I were to install a switch based on this diagram would this mod work? I believe it will based on this thread here: 09 Always-On Rear View Camera

PROPOSED MODIFICATION:


FACTORY DIAGRAM:



If my diagram is valid, then there is no need to install the switch at the mirror, rather we can tap the fuse block with a fuse for +12v. Then we can redirect the REV wire at connector IN1 @ Pin 7 to the switch. It's right under the dash.



Anyone agree?

 

My proposed modification is an evolution of this mod quoted here

 

Any EE's out there?

 

Not a EE, but it looks right to me. You're using the switch to apply either; the stock 12v on the REV line; or 12v from a constant line for mirror on when you flip the switch. Looks reasonable to me.

 

Lurkin, That's right. That's how it should work. Thanks for commenting.

Later tonight I'll poke around under the dash and find modular plug IN1. Once I find it. I'll probe the REV wire with a multimeter to confirm the circuit. If that checks out then I'll do the mod and install a switch and document everything in another thread.

Thanks.

 

Thanks Caribe!

I was going to use the SPDT switch. I believe it's on-on. I never thought to use an on-off-on switch.

 

Your going to need a SPDT switch are you not? One for the "normal" operation, one for the "I want it on" operation. You're going to need a double throw for that.

 

Lurkin, Derp! You're right, I included a picture of the wrong switch. That particular switch went into my ABS kill switch project.

<previous post edited to eliminate future confusion>

 

Just an FYI, A good place to find sweet switches is www.te.com. You can make up a company profile and then request samples. The will send you almost any switch for free. Its pretty awesome. They also sale factory harnesses although they have different part numbers then toyota so they can be a PITA to find.

 

Thanks FBC, it's nice to know about additional resources.

 

Tonight I poked around and I have found the REV wire. It was very simple.

Remove the coin tray to find connector IN1 mounted to the front top left of the fuse block. I used a small wire to back probe the REV wire. I used my multimeter to confirm that 12+ volts is only there when the transmission is in reverse.

It's important to note that it's the left side of the junction that connects to the camera, when the wire is snipped the left side should then be connected to the "common" pole (T2) on the switch. The right side of the junction is sending the +12v when the tranny is in reverse, this side can go to either T1 or T3 of the switch.

All I have to do now is build my switch with harness and install it. Picked up the add-a-circuit a few days ago.

 

Any update on this mod? Were you able to get it wired correctly from under the dash? I want to do this mod but, like you, I'd like the switch to be in the dash.

 

Bump! any updates?

I plan on buying a backup camera and this would be a nice mod.

 

Also interested in any updates!

 

I'll to do it this weekend and write it up. I estimate about 20 minutes to do this mod. I'm really surprised nobody read this thread and beat me to it. All the leg work has already been done.

 

I was snooping around and planning it out based on your drawings and pictures. The connector that plugs into IN1 on mine has only two wires - red and yellow. The red operates as you said, showing 12v when in reverse. I've got a switch all soldered up ready to go. Just need to locate a spot to tie it in to +12v. There is a blank button hole just above the fuse panel for mounting... couldn't be more ideal.
One of those Add-a-circuit rigs would be perfect if I can find one around here.
I'll be interested to see your write up, Crom. Particularly where you selected to tap for power.
I'll send up pics when I get this done as well.

 

I'm in the same situation: two wires to my IN1 connector (a 2011 double cab). This is the first automotive electronics project I've ever undertaken, and I'm trying to decide how best to splice into the red wire. Simply cut it and add two butt splices to connect to the switch, or is there a better way I've overlooked?

 

We have the same truck (long bed?). What you should do is get one of those Add-a-circuit rigs (

$17 FHM200BP mini-fuse Add-A-Circuit Kit

FHM200BP is one), and tap into one of the fuses on the block. This will be your new fused constant 12v source to your switch. That involves no cutting of any factory wiring. The one cut you will have to make is of the red wire coming off IN1 (the plug with just the yellow and red). The two sides of this cut will feed the center and one outside terminal of the switch.
So you end up with:

Terminal 1 - red, from IN1
Terminal 2 - red, from rear view mirror
Terminal 3 - new 12v source

Switch in position 1-2 = normal camera operation: reverse only.
Switch in position 2-3 = camera on.

I'll be hooking this up here in the next day or two, and will post some pics. Couldn't find an add-a-circuit here for MINI size fuses, just the big ones. I may have to go with an in-line glass fuse holder since I have lots of those fuses around anyway. Same difference, but I will have to tap in somewhere else for the 12v source.

 

Nothing wrong with butt splices, they'll work just fine. However if you have some telephone taps, they are the next best thing short of soldering with heat shrink.

Here are a couple pictures of some telephone taps I used in another project. They are filled with a gel that makes the bond water tight when the gel cures. They are perfect for tapping these small wires in the truck. The taps are made to use for telephone equipment that is exposed to the elements. This website sells them for $0.10 each here

I picked up a pack of four at Radio Shack and they were a lot more than $0.10 each.

Too bad you can't find the mini-add-a fuse... Maybe order one over the Interweb if you can't source it locally?

 

I soldered up my switch and I got everything ready to go. I decided to use fully insulated slide connects for this project. It will make everything 100% reversible should I need to remove my switch. I don't need to use the telephone taps because I am using the Add-a-circuit to obtain my +12v source.