FJ Cruiser T-Case Install in 2007 Tacoma 6-Speed Manual

Yup I totally get the additional complications of the various traction controls The only variant I see for what I have in mind is locking diff or not.
My truck is a 2006 with out any locker or traction control so my case is pretty straight forward. Im using a 2007 FJ schematics for the research. What I'm having trouble with is connecting the dots from the schematic (snapshot attached) to the part number of the computer; again the only variant they asked about was diff lock or no, so im not 110% that what I've asked for in the ECU is what I'm after. Any thoughts about that drawing would be appreciated. The ECU that I'm after appears to be 8953335230

Again for you hard core offroaders I can see that anything that works, works as it would for me. but if you get a client that is hesitent to let you chop up their truck this more OEM solution may land you the job.


You know what I'll be damned if I can figure out how to attach the page of the schematic I need (2007 FJ page 196) F@#$#^!!!!

 

Post the link to pdf. but you know 2006 non-traction computer should be almost exaclty as the manual computer. All you should need to do would be to tell computer that transfer case is engaged

 

Its should be seprate but I think Offroad VSC 4wd ECU provides more input to skidd control. When I looked at the wiring I tought I saw some extra wires on VSC trucks. I could be wrong.

P.S. What would be nice is if somebody made convertion plate for 4.7 Transfer case to auto tranny. I still want to have AWD option on my truck

 

I can but one would have to scroll for the page. On paper it's a slam dunk but I just can't guarantee that the drawing is absolutely the same as the ECU listed as the drawing doesn't quote the part number.
Will post tomorrow when I'm at my PC.

 

^^^

 

Well I recieved my FJ AT TC from HondaToy in Edmonton and they were patient with me and understanding of what I was trying to do. I've got the low km TC with ratty shifter, MT boots inner and outer, both MT shift knobs (not realizing that the MT TC is a different pattern. They charged me just over $900 to my door. If I was south of the boarder I would have just had Wyatt @ RST send me one ready to go but the cross boarder thing can be a bitch so that wasn't going to work, especially with shipping back the core.

I still need the FJ AT ECU and plug, the correct shift knob, an appropriate dash switch for the 2WDL cut out, some steel rod to make the shifter and I think the little ring that finishes off the top of fabric inner boot. All that plus time and motivation.

While I was already hiding stuff from SWMBO, I picked up a set of OEM Fog lights and two switches (one extra for future backup lights).

I will attach a snapshot pic of the drawings I was using for the FJ but as I said before I cannot find a direct link between this drawing and the 89533-35230 ECU so it might be a little tiny leap of faith but I'm sure it's all good.
Not sure when I might pull the trigger on this swap but maybe towards the spring? I'd like a clear shedule to do it. I will post a fresh thread and link it all together with this and the RST thread. Thanks to Wyatt from RST for putting me on the road to recovery. The first step is always admitting to yourself that you have a problem.

link see page 197 on the tool bar: http://brockandbecca.com/files/fj/FJ_Electrical.pdf

 

Awesome dude! Keep us updated!! It's always a good read!

 

The transfer case for the 4.7 L motor in the Tundra and the 4Runners are the same bolt patterns as the 4.0 L motors from the Tacoma's and FJ Cruisers so they will just bolt right up.

 

Sorry if this has already been answered, but what's the crawl ratio difference?

 

So would this work on an 08 4cyl sr5 4x4? or is the bolt pattern and input shaft spline to different to be compatible?

 

I think this will answer your question!!!

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/114291-n0rths-tacoma-build.html

This is n0rth's truck and it is AMAZING! He is a 5 speed but if he was an automatic it would work the same!

 

Yes. It will bolt right up with no issues. It still uses the same bolt pattern and the same spline count on the input shaft as the V6 automatics do.

 

No problem at all. No the crawl ratio would be the same as the low gears in all the t case's from Toyota right now are 2.57:1

 

Thank you both! After i have some other stuff built this will be my next mod!

 

So whats the purpose of swapping in an FJ tcase?

I understand the swap from a NP231 to a Rubi tcase. The crawl ratio goes from about 2.72:1 to 4:1.

 

There are a couple of reason's for doing it. The two biggest reasons are reliability and the fact that you can turn the FJ case into a twin stick case.

The standard case from the Tacoma is prone to failing from the actuator and then sometimes the hi/lo shaft binds causing the lo function of the case to be useless. With the FJ case, it's fully manual so you don't run into those issues.

 

ran into the same problem with the AWD FJ T-case, fun. But all fixed, had to do the same thing swapping the spline.

Now just to get the front actuator working.. .
all wired up but the actuator is gunked (luckily engaged)


love that its buried between my fabtech drop bracket <-- soon to be replaced by a lift that doesn't suck.

ill post how I did my twin sticks soon, I cut them and re-welded two horizontal bars to get away from cutting into the cup holders. (looks stock)


-tadd

 

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just an idea if anyone is doing this...

 

Man.. I know how you feel.. When they did my Pro-comp I realized that the hoses weren't quite long enough and they didn't tell me so when I did any kind of water forging or mud crossing it would suck it right up in the the front actuator.. LUCKILY I was able to take the selector part of the chunk out and open up the plastic cover and get all the connections cleaned up and the motor was actually seized with mud and rust. Well a few direct hits with a battery and a little WD-40 sprayed in there to get it spinning freely worked out then I cleaned up the limit switch and grease it back up and sealed it with silicone. Then ran a longer hose to the breather and i'm good to go.

Dude I love the setup.. I was thinking passenger side actually... do you have a picture under the plastics?

 

OK my question is...Have you figured out to bypass the front diff actuator to work with that???B/C that's the problem I'm having with mine, the T-case is working just not the front diff actuator (I have taken it apart and cleaned it just didn't do the grease or hose so it stop working again)...Also if have answered this question just point me in the right area thank you...