Grinding noise after lift

No more grinding! I flipped the driveshaft and it worked. Right up to come.

 

Cool now come over and flip mine!

 

Shit, I wouldn't even pay that much attention.

No real need to mark - the flanges are only going to line up in the correctly phased orientation unless you disassemble the slip-yoke.

And if you manage to damage a u-joint while removing the driveshaft by hand, I would take the whole fucking shaft back to Toyota, tell them they could keep it, and go have a custom one made.

So, simpler instructions:

1) Unbolt driveshaft.
2) Flip it around.
3) Bolt back up. Torque spec: rather tight.

 

Hmm looking at the pick after the flip now I'm wondering how that will hold up over time. The fat heavy end of the driveshaft now has gravity on it's side, with it's weight pushing down on the smaller end, that's now at the diff..

 

I think the only problem would be rubber boot is now closer to the ground and more prone to damage. That things is so light I can't imagine any part of it holding up well to a good hit though so it may not matter. If mine does screw up I will definitely have one made because Toyota definitely doesn't have an answer. I will have the small write up done when I get to work. Even though it's fairly easy might help some folks to try it.

 

It's funny I stumbled upon this thread because my DCLB has the same exact noise the OP is describing, at the same speed! I'm going to have the dealer look into it before I spend money on a one piece shaft. I may also load up the back first and drive around with a few hundred pounds in the bed to see if the noise goes away when the angle is lower.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/191798-how-reg-cab-rear-driveshaft-flip.html#post4152093

Here is the simple write up!

 

That is weird. I haven't looked into it happening on anything but the regular cabs. Let us know what happens.

 

I noticed it as soon as I had the TSB springs put in. I was too pissed at the service department to go back that day and it has been a bit over a year that I have dealt with it. I'm going to another stealership to see what they will do about it

 

Not that I have this issue or will since i dont have a reg cab, but I want to ask you if you can get ahold of a Go Pro or some sort of recording devise and mount it under your truck and record your shaft in action to see if you actually did fix the problem or if you just moved the noise to a place you cant hear it anymore, the camera should let you know. Just curious.

 

I would but I don't have access to anything I could film it with. I doubt that I just moved the noise though. One reason I say that is because not only could you hear it but you could feel it through the pedals. If I can find something to film with I will defiantely do that though.

 

You probably did solve it then, the only reason I asked was because one of the previous posters said that flipping the shaft just moves the noise to somewhere else. Good job though.

 

It could be a combination of badly greased u-joints and the slip yoke. I dunno I'm just glad it's gone!!

 

did you find out whats causing the noise?

i have this problem, but it happens when i full lock right. like a grinding/creaking noise. (stock rear, 1.75 up front)

i just got my alignment yesterday hoping it would solve it..but its still making noise. but now that i look at it, it still looks like i have slight positive camber.
probably going to take it in to another shop some other time.

anyway, everything looks good to go..all in place, bolts tight

i dont know what else to do help!

 

First thing to look for is tire rubbing.

If there's less than half an inch clearance when you check while turned both ways on both sides at just a little less than full lock, you might be rubbing while rolling.

 

ill check......still got 245/75s

but sounds more of a metal creaking noise

 

OK, the upper control arms have rubber bushings, and they want to be bolted up at the factory ride height, which you've changed by installing the lift.

So try this:

1. Locate the upper control arm frame mount bolt. It's a Loooong 8" or so bolt that attaches the upper control arm to the frame. There may be a little bit of plastic flashing in the wheelwell that you have to move to find it.
2. Loosen it.
3. Re-tighten it to 85 ft-lbs.

Do all this while your truck is sitting on its own weight on its tires.

That'll relieve the twisting pressure on the rubber bushing, so that it's tight at it's new "natural" position.

 

ya that makes sense, ill give it a shot.

 

Also check for sway bar interfering with springs, but I noticed that more on potholes and speedbumps than turns.